August 23, 2015

Malternatives: Ardbeg from Mitteleuropa

That would be gentian. I do often quote gentian eau-de-vie in my tasting notes, and even if this very earthy and medicinal spirit really is an acquired taste (and some will simply hate it forever!) I’m a sucker for good gentian or gentiane or Enzian. Let’s have a few today, some from Alsace, some from other regions…

Eau de vie gentiane (43%, OB, René de Miscault, Alsace, +/-2010)

This is macerated gentiane, as opposed to fermented, that is to say that the roots are kept in a neutral spirit for a while (usually apple spirit) and then distilled. It’s cheaper to do, but almost everybody does it like that. Colour: white. Nose: sweet and round for a gentiane, as usual with this maker. Some earth, touches of tincture of iodine, then various sweet roots, including beetroot, as well as a little fennel, caraway and ginger, which gives this gentian an exotic side. Mouth: really easy, smooth, with a sugariness I’m not too fond of, but other than that, it’s full of gentian (yeah, well said). Very rooty, but only mildly medicinal. Probably better when chilled. Finish: long, as always with gentian, as salty as Ardbeg, rooty and earthy. The Islay of eaux-de-vie! Comments: not one of the best IMHO, because of the sweetness, but it’s a very fine spirit. Try it, it’s cheap. SGP:672 - 72 points.

Another Alsatian…

Gentiane (40%, OB, G. Miclo, Alsace, +/-2014)

Nobody may use the term ‘eau de vie’ anymore when it’s not a fermentation. These macerated gentians are simply called ‘Gentiane’ these days. Colour: white. Nose: much drier, dirtier in a good way, grassier, with a burnt side. Overcooked vegetables? In fact, this is a proper gentiane. I told you, it’s an acquired taste. Mouth: good! Too bad the strength is too low, that makes the spirit a little flabby and unsatisfying. Loses points because of that. Other than that, there’s a big earthiness, and quite some notes of turnips, celeriac, even rutabagas… Finish: a little short, which is exceptional with gentiane. They often last for hours… The aftertaste is as salty as that of the De Miscault. Comments: a good access-gentiane for beginners. And this one’s quite easy to find. SGP:472 - 72 points.

Yet another Alsatian…

Gentiane (45%, OB, J. Nusbaumer, Alsace, +/-2015)

More power, let’s see if this works. Once again, this is no proper eau-de-vie, it’s macerated gentiane. Please note that the picture is that of another spirit, but labels are identical. Colour: white. Nose: we’re right between a real mezcal joven and Ardbeg’s newmake. And I am not making this up. Roots, brine, smoke, touches of pears, garden bonfire, hints of pineapples. Lovely nose, love the smokiness. Mouth: oh yes! Nervous, zesty, smoky, earthy, rooty, herbal, salty… This one’s really great, and absolutely flawless. There are even notes of kippers – to think that the yellow gentian is harvested in the mountains! Finish: very long, salty, lemony, earthy… In short, it’s perfect. Comments: this is the eau-de-vie (right, an almost-eau-de-vie) that’s closest to a young peater from the Isle of Islay. Very high class distillate, even if it’s ‘only’ macerated gentiane. SGP:573 - 86 points.

Let’s hop to Bavaria if you don’t mind…

Holzfass Enzian (40%, OB, Lantenhammer, Bavaria, +/-2014)

Probably macerated gentian again, made by the owners of Slyrs whisky distillery in Schliersee. This one spent a little time in oak, but the colour’s so light that it was probably inactive wood. Probably better like that. Colour: virtually white. Nose: much more restrained, almost silent for a gentian, but it’s very clean and fresh, almost delicate. Maybe a little peat – but not peat smoke. The lightest of them all so far. Mouth: we’re in the style of the Miclo, only a bit lighter and cleaner. An easy one, with good fruits (I get prunes) and… good manners. Perhaps a touch of oak, but I may be dreaming. Finish: a little short for a gentiane, but the cleanliness makes it pleasant and, again, easy. Leaves your mouth as fresh as a baby’s. Comments: maybe a little more ‘technical’ than the first two Alsatians, but we’re far from the powerful Nussbaumer. A light and easy gentiane/Enzian. SGP:452 - 73 points.

And now, drum roll…

Eau de Vie de Gentiane Supérieure (45%, OB, Marcel Michel, Doubs, +/-2014)

This is the real deal, genuine fermented gentiane by a small distillery in Franche-Comté, east of France (south of Alsace, if you wanna know everything ;-)). Sadly, I’ve heard they’ll stop distilling very soon, as no one seems to be willing to go on while the current owner is about to retire. Unless that already happened. Colour: white. Nose: more depth, more power and more brine, as well as more smoke. Even the Nussbaumer noses gentle and easy in comparison. Capers, olives, artisan mezcal, sour dough, burning grass, seaweed, mashed turnips, damp earth, hessian, dried kelp, gueuze… Where else have we already nosed all this? Mouth: instant earthy pleasures, plenty of vegetables, burnt stuff (not sure I could tell you what), turnips and celeriac again, wild carrots (perhaps), fresh ginger, sour bread, smoked beef – and a feeling of Grisons meat. Eating earth! Finish: very long, salty and limy, which adds freshness to the aftertaste. Comments: Kildalton gentiane, I’d say. Up there with the best white smoky spirits! SGP:473 - 88 points.



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