January 26, 2015

Little duels, Imperial 1995 vs. 1977

Not a lot to say. You know the story, the distillery’s just been demolished and quickly rebuilt under a new name: Dalmunach (no that’s not a crossbreed of Dalmore and Balmenach).

Imperial 18 yo 1995/2014 (52.3%, Acla da Fans, Switzerland, bourbon hogshead)

Colour: straw. Nose: as zesty and ‘green’ as the zestiest and greenest white Sancerre, ridden with limestone, lemons, grapefruits and hay. That’s all folks, but that’s already quite a lot. With water: as fresh and vibrant as meadows after an April shower. We might be a little early with this. Seriously, this is crystal. And I also love the cumin in there, there is something of fresh choucroute. Mouth (neat): hurray! Mezcal and lemon juice, grapefruits, gin, plus a little vanilla. Everything is perfect. To think that we used to neglect Imperial in the old days – but it’s also a matter of offer, isn’t it! With water: malt, mint, green apples. A bit of bitter oak as well, but quite curiously, it’s mingled with a little honey. Finish: quite long, rather on overripe apples. Comments: well, I was ready to go even higher, but I’m not sure it swims to well on your palate. A great Imperial nonetheless. SGP:551 - 86 points.

Imperial-Glenlivet 37 yo 1977/2014 (53.5%, Cadenhead, Single Cask)

Imperial-Glenlivet 37 yo 1977/2015 (53.5%, Cadenhead, Single Cask)

A ‘January’ bottling by Cadenhead, not too sure when it was disgorged, 2014 or 2015. I believe this might be the oldest Imperial I’ve ever tried. Colour: gold. Nose: coin box camphor shoe polish butter cream cough syrup shoe polish yogurt damp earth old cellar cellulosic varnish bitter oranges. I may have missed a few commas. No I didn’t mean Polish yogurt. With water: same, plus some mashed potatoes, Robuchon-style. 50% mashed potatoes, 50% fresh butter. Mouth (neat): depressingly great. You could tell your doctor this is just cough syrup, but what a cough syrup! Orgeat, eucalyptus, citrons, peppermint, lemon marmalade, ‘sharp yet great’ green tea (perhaps over-infused Taiwanese wulong but I’m really making this up), cumin, caraway, aniseed, lemon zests… What a whirlwind! Sure there’s some oak but it’s a kind of zesty oak, bordering liquorice wood. With water: plenty of tiny herbs come out, together with sour apples and a piny oakiness. Green tannins. Careful with water! Who said always, who? Finish: long and rather peppery this time. Peppered chartreuse and lemon marmalade. Comments: gives you your faith back. Yes there’s still great whisky coming out, but using water on this is a little tricky – or I’d have gone even higher than… SGP:471 - 92 points (forgot to ask you to call our favourite brigade).

Check the index of all Imperial I've tasted so far