November 2, 2015

Impressive Brora and Brora

Today is Brora day at WF Towers, which is pretty much the same as St. Serge Day. The cute little book that came with the Special Releases this year states that the new Brora 37 is a 1977, not sure that’s written on the label. Which leads to this question: which sparring partner? Well, I’m afraid we haven’t got any other 1977 at hand, so the nearest Brora I could find is this fairly recent 1978 by G&M. As far as Brora’s concerned, in case you haven’t already, you could browse these humble little pages I had done ten years ago.

Brora 1978/2013 (46% Gordon & MacPhail, Rare Old, lot #RO/13/05)

Last year’s Special Release, a 35 years old, was a 1978. It was just fab (WF 93). But this one’s been reduced – strange habit – so things may be a little different. Colour: bronze amber. Nose: whaaat? But his is perfect! Immediately tertiary, with no primary or secondary notes at all (malt, oak, sherry…), rather an avalanche of greases and waxes for starters, then a lot of tobacco, teas, engine oil, old chartreuse, old car engine (Bakelite, old rubber) and the largest collection of mushrooms ever. Our dear old pu-erh tea, and it’s flying high. Impressed, despite a very moderate smokiness. Mouth: the oak’s perhaps a little more noticeable, and this is not your usual Brora (as far as Brora can be usual), since all what we’re getting in the arrival is a lot of smoked meat and ham. So this Brora is very bacony, before more oranges and tar take the lead. Some salt, some chocolate, a sooty side... We’re not very far from G&M’s 1982s, but I like this one better (but maybe less than G&M’s stunning 1972s!) Perfect mouth feel, 46% vol.’s never been a bad strength, in fact. Finish: quite long, very chocolaty, with touches of prunes, some salt, and more oranges and bacon. Probably sherry casks! Perhaps refill… Comments: I have to confess I was a bit scared, but this is absolutely terrific. SGP:454 - 93 points.

Brora 37 yo 1977/2015 (50.4%, OB, Special Release, 2,976 bottles)

High expectations, high expectations… Especially since the 35 yo bottled in 2013 was a 1977 as well, and fetched a well-deserved 95 points mark in my little book. Colour: gold. Nose: Brora seems to be indestructible. I can well imagine in 2037, on Whiskyfun, a 65 years old 1972 Special Release being tasted. Stocks are said to be low, but they always said that, and they still managed to vat around ten casks this year. The result is amazing, curiously softer than the G&M and more herbal, more coastal as well, and perhaps a little smokier too. Less sherry for sure, so less tobacco and chocolate. There are the trademark farmy touches (hay), then oysters and chartreuse, then more resinous notes, between pinesap and artisan absinth. Astounding complexity, as expected. With water: superb sappy oil extracts. Old candle, linoleum, bandages, embrocations, verbena, wormwood… and mud. Mouth (neat): huge, ashy, almost drying, in a good way. This one reminds us that 1977 was still a peaty year at Brora. More absinth, tarry smoke, liquorice, salted fish, with a mouth feel that’s becoming oilier and creamier. Touches of salted chestnut honey, which gives it a Chinese side, in a way. Huge whisky. With water: exceptional. Dry, coastal, liquoricy, herbal, both fat and chiselled. The best cough syrup ever. Finish: perhaps not extremely long, but all these herbs, liquorice and cough drops just work in sync. It’s the freshness that’s most impressive. Comments: one of 2015’s grands crus, no doubt, together with some of the Karuizawas. Hey, next time, could someone sell a blend of Karuizawa and Brora? You could call it either Karuibrora or Brorazawa. I’m sure that would make it to 97 points if it’s well made, serious. Hint, hint, John Glaser… In any case, this one beats last year’s in my book. SGP:465 - 95 points.

Check the index of all Brora I've tasted so far

Pete McPeat and Jack Washback