September 21, 2015

Glen Garioch fair and square

Some names come in waves at the Indies’. There used to be a lot of Highland Park, Laphroaig and Caol Ila just two years ago, while these days we’re rather seeing a lot of Bunnahabhain, Glen Keith, or yes, Glen Garioch. It’s not that we’re going to complain, those are great names and quality’s usually very high. Also good opportunities to taste these distilleries ‘as nature intended’, so ex-barrel or refill, and not finished or rejuvenated or whatever – like some officials are doing only too often. Anyway, lets have a few newish Glen Gariochs. We’ll try to do it a little quicker, but whenever I say that, I fail pretty miserably. As the famous Scottish whisky expert Jock McVoltaire would have said, ‘Aye, I’m writing long tasting notes because I’ve got no time for short ones. Now would you please pass me that gin & tonic!?’

Glen Garioch 21 yo 1993/2014 (52.5%, Maltbarn, bourbon, 142 bottles)

Colour: white wine. Nose: how perfect! As zesty and mineral as natural Glen Garioch can be, with lemons and gooseberries, clay, a touch of paraffin, a wee whiff of coal smoke, and perhaps a little… mezcal. Some maguey-y Glen Garioch! With water: typical Glen Garioch once again, some massive saponification happening when you add water. But after just five minutes, the soap is gone, and you’ve got a perfect mineral and sooty malt. Notes of raw wool, but no wet dog (it’s your lucky day, dogs). Mouth (neat): beautifully mezcaly, zesty, mineral and grassy, with this very particular acridness that works so well in Glen Garioch. A lot of oomph, this is whisky for the open. With water: the fruits are coming out, essentially grapefruits and other tart citrus. A little roundness from the barrel. Finish: long, and earthier. I cannot not quote gentian. Comments: truly excellent, but perhaps not very easy. SGP:561 - 87 points.

Are all 1993s a little austere? Let’s check that…

Glen Garioch 1993/2014 (54.2%, Svenska Eldvatten, bourbon, 192 bottles)

The wood was more active, the colour’s darker. Colour: pale gold. Nose: bang, even more austere than the Maltbarn, while I had thought it would be rounder because of its golden dress. Fresh mint leaves, clay, grass, liquorice wood, and just a touch of aniseed. Maybe a little shy, let’s see… With water: soap! Let’s wait… zzz… Good, it’s gone again, but a little putty remains there. Mouth (neat): a big beast, with a feeling of peat – while there shouldn’t be any, or very little. Lemon-flavoured macaroons, lemongrass, green peppercorns, not too ripe gooseberries, and perhaps a little rhubarb. Indeed it’s all pretty green. With water: creamy, almost thick. Lemon blossom honey, grass, lemon curd… Indeed the cask was more active. Finish: rather long, on artisan limoncello, perhaps. Comments: impossible for me to tell you which one I liked best so far. SGP:561 - 87 points.

Another try at 1993

Glen Garioch 21 yo 1993/2015 (56.4%, Lady of the Glen, bourbon, 250 bottles)

Colour: pale gold. Nose: very close to both previous ones, but this one’s a wee tad more citrusy, with perhaps (even) more grapefruits. Between a dry Jurançon and a great Muscadet. Zing! With water: Mouth (neat): we’re so very close once again, but I tend to like this even better. Perfect lemon and earth – and myriads of tinier zesty flavours. With water: dry chenin blanc from Loire. I know this is not winefun.com, but his Glen Garioch reminds me of François Chidaine’s Vouvrays, or of Eric Nicolas’ Jasnières. Stunning wines for fair prices – they’re just hard to find. But back to whisky, this Lady of the Glen, not Mademoiselle from the Loire Valley… Finish: we’re close again, very close, extremely close. Comments: there’s this smidgen of, of what again? A je-ne-sais-quoi, perhaps a perfect balance, worth one more point in my book? SGP:561 - 88 points.

No more 1993 just now, this would become a chore, even if the whiskies are great. Hold on, unless we find a sherried one…

Glen Garioch 21 yo 1993/2014 (59%, Adelphi, 1st fill sherry butt, cask #774, 501 bottles)

Colour: amber. Nose: is this supposed to be a (lovely) joke? This starts like an Enmore from Guyana, so yeah, rather high-ester rum. Bananas flambéed, sugarcane, olives, liquorice… And you would have thought this would have gone away, but not so, not so. Also pencil shavings and chocolate! What’s the recipe? With water: nice gamy notes, pemmican, tobacco… But those are to be found in good rum as well. Mouth (neat): no, it’s well whisky, but it’s not void of any sugarcane-y notes. Chocolate, a lot of marmalade (both orange and lemon), candy sugar… Now while the minerality’s not obvious, the very zesty, lemony profile does come through well and loud. Forgot to say, this is goody good. With water: a touch of ginger, and indeed minerals, clay, gravel, whatever. Plus bitter oranges. Finish: long, peppery, gingery, and orangey. Comments: another excellent one. I still prefer the ‘natural’ ones, but yeah, this is excellent – if a little controversial at times. SGP:551 - 86 points.

Let’s change vintage if you don’t mind…

Glen Garioch 25 yo 1990/2015 (50.6%, Signatory Vintage, hogshead, cask #2752, 275 bottles)Glen Garioch 25 yo 1990/2015 (50.6%, Signatory Vintage, hogshead, cask #2752, 275 bottles)

Glen Garioch 25 yo 1990/2015 (50.6%, Signatory Vintage, hogshead, cask #2752, 275 bottles)

Colour: gold. Nose: this, is going to be quick. Perfect, with a medicinal side that hints at older vintages of Glen Garioch. Some kind of bridge-vintage? And there’s even the peat. Superlative so far. With water: barley, shoe polish. Mouth (neat): oh so gooood! Peat smoke, lemons, eucalyptus, green chartreuse, pepper liqueur, earthy teas… Everything’s perfect. Body’s perfect. Oomph’s perfect. With water: even more perfect. Stunning lemony earthiness. Finish: same, for a pretty long time. Comments: finally, I managed to write some short tasting notes! Great great bottle by Signatory. SGP:553 - 91 points.

Not the first great 1990 we’ve had, but let’s try another one and we’re done.

Glen Garioch 1990/2015 (56.7%, Usquebaugh Society, cask #7937)

Our Dutch friends don’t only produce gouda, tulips, weed, and tax shelters, they’re also quite good at selecting casks… Colour: full gold. Nose: there’s more oak in this one, more butterscotch, more fudge, more toasted brioche… The ‘problem’ is that it combines extremely well with the earthy/smoky style of the spirit. You’re drinking lapsang souchong while sucking fudge and smoking a Partagas. I said a Partagas. Some lemon may be involved somewhere. With water: mud, in a great way. Perhaps a little pipe juice. Mouth (neat): clearly the Signatory with more oak influence. All a matter of taste, and while I tend to prefer the sharper and cleaner styles, I’m finding this just as superb (hey, do you think that makes much sense, S.?). Loud applause. With water: softer notes, vanilla, raisins, dried apricots… And fudge! Finish: rather long, a little buttery. Buttered fudge. I tried an excellent one recently, I’ll give you the name, wait… Right, found the empty box, it is (was) called Mr Stanley. Comments: another exceptional 1990 Glen Garioch. Despite the fudge. And it’s a little moving to be reminded of Slim Cowell’s fantabulous bottlings of earlier Glen Gariochs. SGP:653 - 90 points.

To be honest, I don’t think there’s much better new +/-25 yo malt whisky around these days. These 1990s are jewels – perhaps not just for everyone, but jewels.