September 15, 2015

Brackla, royal indeed?

Lousy teaser, I agree. But Brackla. Or Royal Brackla. A great name that only die-hard whisky freaks used to know of, until, perhaps, today. Indeed, after Craigellachie, Aultmore and Aberfeldy, Bacardi are now trying to re-launch Brackla. Of course, with a new retro packaging signed Stranger & Stranger (like anyone else in the booze industry does, or so it seems, but as the housemaid always says, if it works it works). Only one question though, why only 40% vol.? Is the spirit that big indeed? Let’s check that…

Royal Brackla 12 yo (40%, OB, 2015)

Colour: light gold. Nose: malty. Roasted nuts, marzipan, a touch of ink and carbon paper (remember carbon paper?), and some bread and brioche. I find it relatively dry, which I always find pretty enjoyable. No extravagant nose for sure. Mouth: well, it works at 40%, we’re not experiencing any immediate nose-diving because of some weakness, although I would add it’s still rather light spirit. The registry is very malty again, with an oiliness, some nuts for sure, a touch of honey, more marzipan, Ovaltine, chocolate-coated orange zests, and perhaps a drop of olive oil. Always love that, ever tried chocolate made with olive oil? Fun stuff. Anyway… Finish: very medium, but pleasantly oily, and always very malty. Perhaps a little peanut butter. Oranges and almonds in the aftertaste. Comments: not really a surprise, but a good surprise. I had feared it would be as flat as a flounder. I could really quaff this… SGP:441 - 84 points.

Quick, let’s try a ‘natural’ one at cask strength just to check ‘the spirit’. We’ll get back to the new range immediately after this one…

Royal Brackla 8 yo 2006/2015 (61.2%, A.D. Rattray, bourbon, cask #310818, 300 bottles)

This is very young, isn’t it. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: yes, I get the almonds and the marzipan yet again. Those are markers. Other than that, it’s raw, very orchardy, with some porridge, muesli, and baker’s yeast. Very young indeed, but you get used to this. With water: more porridge, barnyard, wet wool… Very young! Mouth (neat): strong, clean, rather fat, sweet, barleyish malt whisky, with some lager and ale in the background. Fresh croissants from one hour ago, pink grapefruits. It’s good, you just have to be deep into malt whisky (emphasis on malt). With water: sweet barley, wine gums, Haribo’s best. The youth of this! Finish: rather long, very sweet, almost sugary. A little chlorophyll in the aftertaste. Comments: only a few years ago, the indies were offering these young whiskies for cheap within their ‘ultra-budget’ series. Like, 20 or 25€. Things have changed, they’re now asking 70€ for such a bottle. But indeed, it’s really good baby whisky. SGP:541 - 79 points.

Back to the new officials.

Royal Brackla 16 yo (40%, OB, 2015)

Colour: light gold. All three, 12, 16, 21, bear the same colour – I wouldn’t do that. Nose: wait, now we’re talking. Oils and herbal teas, always great signs. Mashed potatoes with borage flowers – cool! – plus shortbread and lime tree blossom. Sounds unlikely, it is not. After that, some artisan butter and a few ultra-fresh walnuts without their skins. It’s a very subtle nose, requiring a little concentration, but it’s totally worth it. Hints of old-style mead, made by good sisters. Mouth: absolutely excellent. IPA (say Lagunitas – I’ve heard Heineken bought them, is that true?) plus fudge and caramel, with a subtle oily/herbal combination in the background. White asparagus, olive oil, a little marzipan just like in the 12, one bergamot, and a spoonful of genuine Swiss muesli. Plus a little candy sugar and custard to keep it rounded and mellow. Finish: medium, not short. Orange cake this time, and big time. Sponge finger cakes. Comments: I think I’ll have to put my gun back into the holster, these babies work at 40% vol. A total surprise – but Brackla’s Brackla. SGP:451 - 87 points.

On to the new 21…

Royal Brackla 21 yo (40%, OB, 2015)

Pff, 40% vol., not even scared! Colour: light gold. Nose: we’re in old wine territories. White Bourgogne, something such as an old Meursault by a good house. That means that there’s a buttery fatness, but also a lot of elegance, around herbal teas, flowers, and high-quality wood. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not woody at all, we’re rather getting oak oils, and yet it’s not mentholy as such (what are you trying to say, S.?). A perfect blend of herbal teas. No I won’t list them. Mouth: yes, it’s really good. In fact the low strength is a little frustrating here, even if it does not imply any excessive shortness (what?) Earl grey tea, bergamots indeed, lime tree tea, orange blossom water, sponge cake… In fact it’s very good, but I think I liked the 16 better on the palate, because of that lovely oiliness. This 21 may be, say less noticeable (writes this miserable taster while adding one point to the 16).. Finish: medium. Herbal teas, chlorophyll, bitter almonds. Softer marzipan in the aftertaste, with a touch of bergamot and rosewater. Comments: I don’t know if it’s the ‘royal’ part of the name, but one could well imagine some kind of king – but who’s still got a king or a queen? – having this in a crystal decanter somewhere in the second boudoir. SGP:451 - 86 points.

Good, who could have got a new high-power old Brackla? But of course…

Royal Brackla 30 yo 1984/2015 (54.1%, Cadenhead, Single Cask)

Frankly, I love the black label, but I find its golden counterpart really too Pakistani (with sincere apologies to our dear Pakistani friends, love you guys). Now, yeah, it’s what’s inside that counts, of course, of course… Colour: gold. Nose: it is totally amazing that this would be the official 21 with more power. As if owners Bacardi had bought back their casks from Cadenhead’s (no, I’m dead sure that’s not what happened, just a joke.) There’s a feeling of restraint power, quite unique in malt whisky, which makes that this is both powerful and light. Now some eau-de-vie-ish notes keep it a bit rough in spite of the years. Kirsch? Slivovitz? With water: we’re wandering throughout a barley field where someone would have planted mint and chives between the rows. Mouth (neat): utterly excellent, zesty and malty, with a grassy/oily backbone. Same strange feeling of simultaneous lightness and power, very funny, very interesting. Sexy and austere at the same time. With water: swims like a champ, gets zesty, citrusy, whistle-clean, but it hasn’t lost its inherent fatness. Sauvignon blanc and foie gras, if you like. And why not? Finish: long, scattering into many teas and herbs. The barley keeps roaring in the aftertaste. Comments: I really enjoy this feeling of civilised rawness. It’s a great dram, not totally easy, perhaps more for dedicated malt freaks. But there are enough of them/us. Not sure water is mandatory. SGP:551 - 90 points.

Check the index of all Brackla I've tasted so far