June 25, 2015

Benromach 15 plus 76

5, 10, 10 CS… Benromach have stunned the whisky community (is there such a thing as a whisky community?) with those recent spirit-driven, old-Highlands-style whiskies, and now there’s a 15. But will the steely/mineral profile stand additional ageing or not? Let’s see.

Benromach 15 yo (43%, OB, 2015)

Colour: full gold. Nose: good dust, you see what I mean? Shoe polish, old tin boxes, old books, waxed paper, pinesap, carbon paper… All that on a bed of paprika and white pepper, plus bitter oranges and whiffs of Worcester sauce. And Tabasco. Fun stuff, in a very dry style, I’m very curious about the palate. Won’t it be too dry? Mouth: no! Start with some peated leather (what?) and more of those bitter and sour sauces, as well as a feeling of, say ginger and tobacco, 50/50. It is a little odd in some way, but the singularities alone make this a worthy whisky. I find it delightfully un-commercial, and couldn’t find any traces of some dreadful vanillin and coconut. Finish: rather long, with some green pepper, perhaps, and some smoke. Very leathery and slightly metallic aftertaste. Comments: not a very easy style, and at times it made me think of contemporary Springbank and Longrow because of its idiosyncrasies. I may prefer the younger tens, but this baby’s very fine for sure. For true malt lovers (oh come on). SGP:362 - 86 points.

Benromach 1976/2012 (46%, OB, sherry cask)

Colour: pale gold. Nose: hold on, this is quite superb! It’s a much fruitier and softer version of Benromach, with some soft tropicalness (bananas) and whiffs of crushed mint leaves, then a little bergamot and a delicate oakiness, between cigarette tobacco and herbal teas. The menthol tends to come to the front though, you have to like that. I certainly do, but that may suggest an overoaky palate, let’s see… Mouth: creamy/fruity ala Benriach, but what I had feared is happening, that is to say a growing liquoricy/mentholy oak slowly taking over. Banana skin. There are fresh tropical fruits as well (pineapples, guavas), and indeed a growing sherriness going towards walnuts and even salt ala manzanilla (old style, pasada), which might be a little segmenting, as they say in French marketing, but which may save it provided you like manzanilla. Finish: long, with more walnuts, some green coffee, more tobacco, and quite a lot of nutmeg. Salty aftertaste. Comments: a little disconcerting at times. The ‘manzanilla’ in it is fabulous, but the oak might be a notch drying. Very hard to score. Yup, t’s segmenting. SGP:461 - 85 points.

Check the index of all Benromach I've tasted so far

Pete McPeat and Jack Washback