March 23, 2015

Antique and contemporary Bruichladdich

To tell you the truth I was mostly interested in the newish ‘bere barley’, but while we’re at it, and since this is Whiskyfun, let’s also have a few older (and much older) siblings.

Bruichladdich 'The Organic Scottish Barley' (50%, OB, Mid Coul, Coulmore, Mains of Tullibardine Farms, 2013)

We already had a non-organic version at 46%, and found to our liking (WF 85). Colour: white wine. Nose: there are rocks and there’s some coal smoke at first nosing, which comes with a lot of plasticine and putty. New leatherette, cider apples, grass… I wouldn’t say this is a very sexy nose, but indeed it’s different. With water: becomes even more austere. Old oil barrel (empty), rocks, saltpetre, a touch of dry hops, white bread… Mouth (neat): raw lemony and grassy rocks, chalk, wax, oil… It’s a little rough but on the other hand, there’s something very natural to this. With water: a little more fruits, perhaps touches of melon as often in Bruichladdich, but there’s also a feeling of rye, porridge, wholegrain bread. Whether the fact that it’s organic has any influence, I have no idea, it shouldn’t in any case. But it feels ‘natural’ indeed. Finish: quite long, still grassy and peppery. Comments: one for the hipflask, I don’t think this baby’s true sipping malt whisky, but I really enjoyed its natural side. SGP:362 - 82 points.

Bruichladdich 'Bere Barley 2008' (50%, OB, Uhi Orkney Farms, 2014)

I believe most bere whiskies I’ve tried had been made from bere barley grown on Orkney. I remember well, for example, an Edradour distilled by/for Michel Couvreur. Colour: white wine. Nose: it is much fruitier than the organic, unexpectedly lighter as well, fresher, cleaner… In fact it’s a kind of melon-flavoured Belgian beer. Yes, seriously. It’s only in the background that we find a few bready notes, stewed pears and apples, and a touch of honey. The whole works very well. With water: oh, all the grains and breads come out, with flying colours. Visiting a bakery around five (am). Mouth (neat): much more difference on the palate. Fruit bread, honey-covered corn bread, Williams pears and a touch of barley water. It reminds me a bit of some new American craft whiskeys. With water: excellent! Breads and fruits in perfect sync, plus a touch of mint flavoured tea and a smidgen of juniper. Finish: quite long, with more oranges this time. Bready/spicy aftertaste. Comments: love this. One of the highest quality/age ratios I know of. SGP:352 - 88 points.

Bruichladdich 10 yo 2003/2014 (61.8%, OB, Private Cask, Jamaican rum barrel, cask #1119)

A very appealing pedigree, Jamaica making some of the very best rums in the world (as you may know, especially if you read these humble pages on Sundays). On the other hand, Jamaican rum may just kill the Laddie’s rather light spirit… Colour: pale gold. Nose: well, I don’t know which proportion of dundery rum there is in there, probably less than 5%, but it’s singing loud, clear and distinctively, and give this very unusual, yet rather fantastic blend an unusual medicinal side. Camphor, antiseptic, pineapple and melon, four aces. Plus tar and fumes, that’s probably purely the rum. Spectacular unusual nose. With water: same but even nicer (how’s that possible, S.?). Mouth (neat): sweet Vishnu, this really works! Once again, the heavy rum is calling the shots, but this really is spectacular. Olives, tar, salt, pineapples… With water: same, plus oranges and citrons. Wonderful. Finish: very long, medicinal, camphory, Jamaican. Comments: probably the rummiest rum-cask-matured Scotch I’ve ever tried, but since they used my favourite style of rum, I’m pretty much in awe, even if this is more meta-spirit than pure malt Scotch whisky. You’re right, who cares. SGP:553 - 90 points.

Bruichladdich 35 yo 1979/2015 (41.7%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 132 bottles)

I haven’t seen many 1979s but a much younger one by Cadenhead, 1979/1997 at 55.8%, had worked very well (WF 88). Colour: pale gold. Nose: it’s a rather delicate one, that does have the traits of the early 1970s, such as some slightly jammy melon again (orange melon from Cavaillon), touches of plums, a little beeswax, hints of Muscat, perhaps… Also apricots and a wee touch of gingerbread. What’s really remarkable here is that it’s 100% old Bruichladdich, so instantly recognisable, probably thanks to a lovely and shy-ish hogshead. Mouth: same feeling, this is unmistakably 1970s Bruichladdich, with melons, plums and all that, plus this mild coastalness that adds a touch of salt. Tends to become a little gritty/grassy after a while, with some green tea as well, chewing leaves (especially cherry leaves)… If I had to find a small flaw in this baby, that would be it. Finish: a little short, grassy… But fresh melon remains in the aftertaste, which is nice (and very Bruichladdich). Also oranges. Comments: both a little fragile and sometimes faintly rough, like grandmas can be, but it deserves much respect. Loved the melon. SGP:561 - 86 points.

Let’s have an even older vintage and we’ll be done and shall have covered almost forty years of Bruichladdichness…

Bruichladdich 20 yo 1969/1990 (43%, Dun Eideann, casks #4928-4932)

This series used to be a kind of sub-brand by Signatory Vintage for some markets. And there were crackers. Colour: gold. Nose: it is a much more mineral Bruichladdich, more austere, with whiffs of concrete after the rain and almonds, before more oranges and, indeed, melons and raisins appear. There’s also a little rubber and a drop of seawater, perhaps, orange blossom, a touch of fresh putty… All that is actually rather complex, but probably a little shy. Shier than the 1979 on the nose, for sure. Mouth: sweeter and fruitier. Plenty of… guess what? That’s right, melons, as well as honey and a little Muscat wine. That would be small berry Muscat, not the slightly vulgar ‘big’ ones. There’s also a touch or rubber again, quinine tonic, a very wee touch of plastic and then more marzipan and other almondy things. The body’s bigger than the nose suggested. Finish: not too long but fruitier and juicier. Jelly babies and Fanta. Oh and melons and Muscat. Comments: a very interesting muscaty old Bruichladdich. Some parts were slightly shaky (esp. the wee rubbery side) but this fruitiness was very… Bruichladdich. SGP:541 - 85 points.

(Thanks a lot Gunther)

Check the index of all Bruichladdich I've tasted so far