August 25, 2015

Another large bag of Japanese whiskies

Japanese whiskies are all the rage of the season, for rather obscure reasons. What’s possible is that some Scottish brands’ hydrocephalic marketing and slightly arrogant pricing may have put-off quite a few whisky lovers, in favour of the quieter and more restrained Japanese brands. Which, in turn, may be becoming too expensive and a bit too ‘marketing’ as well. Bah, anyway, every sort of dog has its turn and next year it’s going to be Canada, or any other old or new whisky nation. The caravan moves on… But let’s have a few Japanese more or less at random, including some newer bottlings as well as some older ones.

Nikka 'Coffey Grain' 1995/2009 (60%, OB, warehouse #11, cask #189476)

An older Coffey grain, single cask, with an age statement, and a higher strength. Colour: gold. Nose: you’re smelling sponge cake, custard, biscuits, butterscotch and a whole box of shortbread. With water: a little grass, and some coconut oil. Mouth (neat): there’s always something slightly varnishy in these arrivals, as well as extreme coconut from the oak. The mouth feel is very creamy, and I do enjoy these notes of tangerines that appear after a few minutes. But the sweet oak does most of the talking… With water: sweet and smooth like a desert. Feels like there’s been some sugar added to it, while I’m dead sure there wasn’t any. Finish: medium, with these tangerines again. Comments: a strong grain that’s not too ethanoly, but certainly very sweet. You could always call it ‘childish’. Not quite my style, but I know some love it. SGP:640 - 78 points.

Nikka 'Coffey Malt' (45%, OB, +/-2014)

It’s lost its vintage, its age, and a good few degrees, but it is malt whisky! Colour: pale gold. Nose: eaaasy, smooooth, cake-y, with even more vanilla than in the grain, plus unusual and rather pleasant hints of fresh asparagus, or even Japanese seaweed, nori, also wakame… I’m not making this up, cross my heart! Mouth: ultra-easy, perfectly balanced, sweet and fruity, and perhaps rather more ‘Irish’ than ‘Scottish’. It’s definitely got something Midletony. Ripe apples, compote, apricots, plums… Definitely good easy whisky. Easy but not dull! Finish: medium, balanced, fruity, sweet… And easy. Comments: indeed, very easy malt whisky, with a light body and plenty of fruit syrups. Or tinned fruits. Pretty indisputable. SGP:630 - 82 points.

Yamazaki 'Mizunara' (48%, OB, +/- 2011)

Matured (or finished?) in Japanese oak, or quercus mongolica. Colour: gold. Nose: it’s got more idiosyncrasies, bumps, holes and… presence than the Coffeys. Many herbal teas and plain teas, honeysuckle, all that coated with some vanilla and coconut from the oak, but in an elegant way. Quite some marzipan too, and this feeling of sandalwood and incense that’s rather ‘mizunara’. Mouth: very nice arrival, with a slightly sappy side, as well as various spices, most of the grassy kind. Coriander, cardamom, then a little parsley, perhaps. Also a little pineapple, a few raisins, perhaps bergamots… Definitely different, and even if it feels a bit ‘flavoured’, it’s really to my liking. Finish: long, sweet, with quite some oak, and more tea. Black tea. Comments: a different Japanese, unusual and good. SGP:551 - 85 points.

Hakushu 12yo (43%, OB, Suntory, Japan, +/- 2011)

We should expect some peat! Colour: straw. Nose: indeed, it is a rather candied, rounded peat, without the coastal side of most Islays, so perhaps rather ‘Ardmore’, with these yellow peaches and white flowers. Behind that, a bit of humus, fern, dead leaves, then more citrus. Perhaps a little eucalyptus, or these small Indian cigarettes called bidies. It’s fresh, rather light peat. Mouth: clean, zesty, light peat, with a lot of freshness. If you could smoke grapefruits, I guess this what you’d get, more or less. Lemon grass, perhaps a little green curry and a little chocolate. Finish: medium, fresh, smoky, clean. I seem to find a little roasted sesame oil. Comments: I like this Japanese freshness, and the fact that it’s not all about wood. SGP:453 - 84 points.

Hakushu 'Heavily Peated' (48%, OB, 2012)

NAS this time, and possibly peatier than the 12 yo. I had enjoyed an earlier bottling, circa 2009 (WF 85). Colour: white wine. Nose: indeed it’s peatier, but it’s not a peat monster. The first thing you’re thinking of is lapsang souchong tea, then this faint sucrosity again. Sugar syrup. What’s really lovely is the way it develops on old roses, dried flowers, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood and all that. Even pinesap and embrocations. Bandages? Mouth: like! A crisp salty lemony medicinal style, between Caol Ila and Ardbeg. All right, all right, more towards Caol Ila. Oysters. What’s sure is that it’s rather more maritime than on the nose. Finish: quite long, crisp, clean, perhaps a little mineral – which is rather un-Japanese in my book. Lemons aplenty now. Comments: I really, really enjoy this clean, smoky freshness. SGP:447 - 86 points.

It’s all going smoothly, isn’t it…

Miyagikyo (43%, OB, +/-2015)

A lot of Japanese writings but no age. I really like these sake-like packagings, but when you do not know your kanjis, you’re dead! Colour: gold. Nose: this feeling of buttered tea that hints at oak, but also cigars and herbal teas, which is nice nice nice. It’s warmer, easier, with only a touch of smoke, and perhaps whiffs of thuja wood and custard. Feels crafted. Nicely crafted, that is. Mouth: goody good! I cannot see who wouldn’t enjoy this, only the light strength makes it a wee tad weak (ish). Oranges, apple juice, herbs and teas, a little mint, pinesap, lime for sure, a drop of white rum from a good maker’s… Some kind of ready-made Japanese mojito, perhaps? Finish: medium length, clean, crisp, lime-y, with a touch of wood smoke. A tiny piece of smoked fish? Comments: I wasn’t expecting much, partly because of the strength, and I was wrong. This goes down like silk and spicy feathers (what?) SGP:452 - 85 points.

Because of the strength, he said…

Miyagikyo 1996/2014 (62%, OB, warehouse #18, cask #66535)

Colour: amber. Nose: oooh! Sure it’s strong, and sure it would kill an elephant better than Dr. Walter Palmer, but these hints of chocolate and orange blossom are perfect. There might be a little too much oak too, but hard to say at this insane strength. Only one solution… With water: huge saponification happening, never experienced it to this extend. Water creating huge soapy smells… Usually, you just need to wait… So let’s wait… zzz… (after fifteen minutes)… Good, the soap is almost gone… Almost… Well not totally gone… (after twenty minutes)… not quite yet… (after twenty five minutes)… yes, gone! Praline, bread crust, macaroons, coconut cake, litchi cake, mandarins… And very, very little smoke this time. Mouth (neat): concentrated oranges, grapefruits, some ginger, some lemon grass, and more punch than Cassius Clay. So quick… With water: perfect! Mentholated raisins, ginger cake, glazed lemon wedges, lemon grass, citron liqueur… Just fabulous, love it. The best use of water ever. Finish: very long, limey, crystal-clean, with he greatest cut ever. Almost Alsatian riesling! Comments: a wrestler that’s not easy to partner with. You need patience (and good water), but then… SGP:562 - 91 points.

And now… Oh no, not 62% vol. again!...

Yoichi 1991/2014 (62%, OB, warehouse #27, cask #129459)

Colour: deep amber. Nose: stunning. Old chartreuse (best of Tarragone), a walk in an eucalyptus forest, a lot cedar wood, and the most precious pu-erh tea. Other than that, it’s seriously strong! With water: no saponification, hurray, but quite a lot of pencil shavings. The oak speaking out, not always a hit in the house, but having said that, there’s even more eucalyptus, and I’m a sucker for eucalyptus. Some wonderful earthy, tobacco-like notes too. No, frankly, it’s a perfect, deep nose. Mouth (neat): utterly expressive, rich, flavourful, and… what’s that word again? Ah yes, assertive. Stunning precious marmalades and chutneys. But then again, its strong stuff… With water: modern magic. Spicy lemons, silky tannins, tangerines, vanilla… At first I had thought it would have become a little, ach, err, slutty, but not at all. Now, the pineapple’s perhaps a little too ‘forward’. I said perhaps… Finish: long, candied, jammy, wonderfully citrusy, with menthol and always eucalyptus in the aftertaste. Comments: what I really enjoyed in this one was the fact that it was extremely Japanese, and totally non-Scottish. Now could the Scots still make this? Honestly, I’m not too sure… SGP:662 - 91 points.

Hakushu, you have the floor again…

Hakushu 1997/2008 'Owner's Cask' (58%, OB, for Shinanoya, barrel, cask #BD40263)

Japanese whisky selected by and bottled for some Japanese whisky lovers, that could be hard to beat. Colour: amber. Nose: I don’t know which kind of barrel this was, but what’s sure is that it hasn’t been lazy. Rich fruits, Demerara sugar and rum, soy sauce, beef stock, acidic earth and peat, toffee, liquorice wood, a few drops of carbolinium… This one talks! With water: brand new rubber boots and the engine of a Lamborghini Miura (pfff, that’s despicable…) Mouth (neat): thick, rich, concentrated, and terribly Trinidadian. You know, Caroni and stuff. Plenty of oak spices, dark bread (our beloved pumpernickel), and something that also reminds us of the thickest bourbons, old Willett-style. Heavy stuff indeed. With water: some kind of oaky and spicy jam. What we call ‘confiture de vieux garçon’ in France, so ‘a bachelor’s jam’. Which would involve quite a lot of alcohol! Finish: long, very jammy, and extremely marmalade-y and richly spicy. Prunes. Comments: some sides reminded me of old Armagnac. A barrel, really? SGP:652 - 88 points.

Good, let’s have a straighter one, and then perhaps a new Karuizawa, and we’ll be done.

Yamazaki 1993/2007 'Owner's Cask' (52%, OB, for Liqueur Shop Naganoya, hogshead, cask #3P70268)

Colour: straw. Nose: it’s a peated Yamazaki! And it’s superb, crisp, whistle-clean, perfectly almondy, eminently lemony, with touches of fresh putty, lemon marmalade, soot, wet limestone, and riesling. Cool climate whisky! With water: shoe polish, coal dust, cigar ashes (no, really), linseed oil, smoked salmon… Mouth (neat): something of the old Ardbeg ten (twist cap, mid-1980s), with grapefruits, soot and ashes, antiseptic, lemon, and green pepper. Another perfectly blade-y one. With water: more fruity sweetness, all for the better. Lemon-flavoured jelly babies and crystallised angelica, plus half a glass of artisan limoncello. Salute! Finish: long and extremely citrusy, with a clean and straight smoky aftertaste. Comments: I’m trying hard to find something bad to say about his one. Fail! Well done, Nagayona! BTW, I’ve seen that they also have great sakes. I love good sake! SGP:554 - 90 points.

Yamazaki 'Vintage Malt' 1993/2004 (54%, OB)

Sorry, picture from another vintage. From the now discontinued – I think – Vintage Malt series, which has become pretty hard to find. Colour: pale gold. Nose: We took it all down one notch, it seems. We’re rather far from the Owner’s Cask, with more sawdust and vanilla. What’s better is that it’s lighter and easier, but on the other hand, it’s rather shy Yamazaki, with some bubblegum, marshmallows, vanilla, a little hay, a little cardboard… With water: fermenting hay, cigarette tobacco. Mouth (neat): indeed, easy, good, vanilla-ed, with a little coffee, a little chocolate, some hay, some tobacco, a little chamomile, this particular herbal side (our friend the eucalyptus again)… Yeah, it’s good. With water: even better! Sweet teas and earthy stuff, but I find a little too much marshmallowy sweetness. Comments: just excellent, just not out of this world. But competition is tough today on little Whiskyfun… SGP:651 - 86 points.

Time to have the Karuizawa, perhaps…

Karuizawa 1983/2015 'Nepal Appeal' (The Whisky Show, cask #3557, 50 bottles)

Some Karuizawa! Bottled in support of Nepal and exclusive to one very high-end masterclass at The Whisky Show in London on October 6. Colour: mahogany. Nose: chocolate and lit cigars. So smoking some kind of dark maduro Cohiba while opening the very best Spanish (okay, dear Italian friends, Italian) dark chocolate, while having a glass of old Port Mourant rum on the side.

So it’s a whole experience, not just whisky. And not only that, there’s also a smoky cup of old pu-erh tea, a good five old books (Hemingway…. But of course) and… hold on, concrete? Stones and flints? Coal crumbles? Old crème de menthe? Mushrooms? Black trumpets, to be more precise? With water: old books, old leather, old wine cellar, old creams, old embrocations, old dry wines, fresh mint cream. Chocolate mint. Mouth (neat): warning tooh-tooh-tooh, warning! This is strong, violent, brutal, and probably not totally civilised. Starts with soups and bouillons, so very Karuizawa, and pretty ‘uma-mi-esque’. I’m sure Uma Thurman used to drink this while they were shooting Kill Bill – and I agree, it showed. Then chocolate, dried figs, all raisins (Corinth, Smyrna, Sultanas, all that), then this Armagnacky side that’s also often to be found in Karuizawa, so prunes, then cigars and plenty of black earth. Licking the ground in an old forgotten factory. With water: I didn’t now they were still having some of these casks. Not sure this would still be legal. Plums and dried dates, old PX, bitter oranges, gasoline, engine oil, Russian black tea, rust, silverware, sucking old pennies, black truffles… Quite unmanageable, all this. Finish: too long, too huge, too dominant, too concentrated. To be honest, it’s a bit tiring! Comments: it fights with you, and it’s not impossible that untrained whisky enthusiasts would give up after just two minutes. You might want to do a bit of training before tackling this monster of a whisky. SGP:474 - 93 points. Masterclass details there.