October 23, 2015

A few bourbons, part two

And so we’re back with more Americans - and not much more knowledge of them. We’ll try to taste heavier ones today, and some older bottlings as well.

Westland 'Whisky Jewbilee' (59%, Jewish Whisky Company, American single malt, 150 bottles, 2015)

It’s the first time I’m trying a Westland, which is distilled in Seattle. Westland is a genuine working distillery, fitted with medium sized pot stills (7,500 – 5,600 litres). It belongs to Anchor and was founded in 2010, so this can’t be old whisky. There, that’s all I know. Colour: gold. Nose: as often with these young crafty Americans, it does not start without an obvious oak, but it hasn’t got these huge gingery/bready aromas that can be found elsewhere. Rather cut grass, a little flour (tapioca?) and then a little raw wool and cedar wood, an aroma that I often find in American whiskies. With water: some oranges and apples arising. Fresh barley, earth, a little praline. Mouth (neat): it’s young, it’s pleasantly pungent, it’s almost slivovitz at cask strength. Damson eau-de-vie (or Zwetschke), a touch of cologne (certainly not unpleasant here) and then a blend of tinned pineapple juice and marmalade. What’s unusual is that the oak’s rather shy, contrarily to what’s to be found in 95% of the American whiskies (imho). With water: cancel that, the oak comes out, with good manners (cloves, ginger, cardamom). Finish: medium, with more plums in oak, plus oranges. Comments: still a bit rough, but given its young age (3? 4? 5?) I find it very promising. Loved the fact that it’s not caramely/vanilla-ed/charred. SGP:451 - 80 points.

Booker's 7 yo (64.45%, OB, Kentucky straight bourbon, batch #2014-07, 2014)

Jim Beam’s power bourbon. I’ve really enjoyed some previous batches (WF 84-85). Wait, where have I put my trusted Vittel and my pipette?… Colour: red amber. Nose: extractive, very coconutty, vanilla-ed, oaky, and pastry-like. Marzipan. Burns a bit, so… With water: aaah, civilisation. A box of cough pills, dried bananas, praline, custard, mashed bananas, oranges, geranium flowers. Strictly nothing to complain about. Mouth (neat): I’m sure its great, but it burns. For the record. There seems to be some stewed fruits… With water: no, rather orange jam-filled chocolates, violet sweets, liquorice allsorts, more custard, and only a touch of coconut, which might be a miracle. It’s even kind of gentle. A little cinnamon from the oak. Finish: rather long, rounded, orangey, only mildly spicy. Perhaps a little caraway. Comments: I find this very good. Simplicity can work! SGP:551 - 85 points.

So you thought 64.45% vol. was a lot? Watch this...

Parker's Heritage Collection 2001 (66.6%, OB, blend of mashbills, 2012)

Another hit from Heaven Hill's, at a devilish strength. Colour: red amber. Nose: this seems to be very fine, that’s all I can say without taking chances with my nostrils. With water: oh very lovely! Simple, but very lovely! Pomegranate juice, guava, always these touches of liquorice allsorts, sweet croissants (croissants shouldn’t be sweet, but everybody makes them sweet these days, all over the world, so, let’s adapt…), the usual touch of mint from the oak’s oils… And pinesap. Fine fine fine. Mouth (neat): smooth! Really! You just have to make sure you only take a drop at one time. I find some blood oranges, rose jelly, stewed peaches, some fudge… I find it nice that it would start with oranges, which gives it a zesty style, unusual in bourbon. Some chocolate and cinnamon in the background. With water: akin to the nose, so very coherent once reduced. Liquorice allsorts, guavas, pomegranate, pastries… And less mint. Finish: medium, as often, and a little more chocolaty and spicy. Always oranges in the aftertaste, and perhaps a little too much oak, but this is bourbon, after all. Comments: water’s favourite companion. I like mucho. SGP:641 - 87 points.

These monsters are great, but they can be a little tiring. So lets be reasonable, only one spot left, let’s choose it very carefully…

Jefferson's Presidential Select 18 yo 1991 (47%, OB, Kentucky straight bourbon, batch #15, +/-2009)

This is supposed to be Stitzel-Weller distillate, which all our American friends are raving about. Probably very different from Jefferson’s Ocean that we had the other day. Colour: amber. Nose: bingo. It’s this combination of wood smoke and banana jam that just clicks, you cannot be against this, you just have to take your hat off and bow. What’s particularly striking is that it tends to become very complex, with various herbal teas plus soft and sweet spices. And the obligatory menthol is of the highest order, as if it came from some long forgotten bottle of crème de menthe that was made in the 19th century. For high-ranking officers. Mouth: I’d have never thought a spirit that started with this much pineapple and banana would be to my liking. And it’s not even rum. Goes on with sweet cinnamon pie, sweet oak (and its spicy procession), and a touch of ginger. What’s also striking is that despite the oak, it remains fresh and kind of clean. Even a notch zesty/earthy/mineral, ala… say, Glen Garioch. Finish: rather long, citrusy and earthy. But of course, the pineapples and bananas keep dancing on your tongue. Comments: we wanted a 90, we found one. Terrific bourbon. And it’s even quite easy. SGP:641 - 90 points.

(et merci encore, Nicolas)

Check the index of all American whiskies I've tasted so far