April 20, 2015

A fairly large bag of Benriach

There's a new official 10 yo entirely made by the current owners. As usual, we'll add a few other Benriachs to the line-up.

Benriach 10 yo (43%, OB, 2015)

I believe this is one of the first official Benriachs to have been distilled by the new owners, under the watchful eyes of Billy Walker. Colour: gold. Nose: a few bready/yeasty notes at first nosing, then some overripe apples and a blend of plum spirit and pale ale (some kind of IPA). A touch of wet limestone as well, but the whole’s very barleyish rather than plain fruity. Perhaps a few greengages? Mouth: more fruits, less ale. I find oranges and a creamy vanilla (butter cream, fudge), then rather touches of limoncello, while the sweet barley speak out again after a few seconds. Touches of white pepper, quite possibly from the oak. Finish: good length. Pepper, vanilla and malty beer, plus stone fruits in the aftertaste. Swiss Abricotine? Comments: rather firmer and more vigorous than expected. Not a smooth/easy one! I really like it. SGP:451 - 83 points.

Benriach 15 yo 'Pedro Ximenez Sherry Wood Finish' (46%, OB, +/-2014)

First tried this expression in 2007, when it was still nicknamed ‘Ximinez’. I had kind of liked it (WF 79). Colour: deep gold. Nose: I’m totally certain it’s improved quite a lot. I mean, in my book. This has depth and not many ‘in your face’ winey notes’, while subtle notes of chamomile, honeysuckle, roasted argan oil and dried figs are pleasantly playing together. There’s also a very fine oakiness, with some walnuts and a delicate vanilla. And marzipan, and blond tobacco. Very nice, as they say in whisky forums. Mouth: indeed, well done. Dried fruits and a little pepper, nutmeg and strong black tea, so the oak’s slightly obvious, then a spicy jam that would contain bitter oranges and strawberries. Let’s not forget cloves. Finish: long, a little caramelised – in a good way. Comments: a very fine dram, with a finishing that was done with care IMHO. They’re very good at that. SGP:551 - 85 points.

Benriach 15 yo 1996/2013 (47.5%, Whisky Spirits, Whisky Seasons)

That was a pretty series! There’s been many very good indie 1996s. Colour: pale gold. Nose: starts with pineapples and pears plus a faintly solventy side, not unpleasant at all, and rather goes on with bananas and cut grass. Marshmallows. So it’s a fruity Benriach, but not quite a ‘tropical’ one. Typical mid-1990s. Mouth: it’s fruit syrup! Barley water, pineapples, peaches, apples, gooseberries… And all that. Plus a touch of lemon that adds freshness and ‘vivacity’. Finish: medium, sweet and fruity, with a little more oak in the aftertaste. Comments: easy, very loyal, and slightly summery, which can’t be bad. I’m sure it would take ice well. SGP:551 - 83 points.

Benriach 17 yo 'Solstice 2nd Edition' (50%, OB, +/-2014)

A peated one this time, or better yet, it’s ‘heavily peated’. I remember the first Solstice, a 15 yo, was finished in Port, which is the most unlikely combination in my book. I mean, peat+Port. And yet, I had liked it (WF 84). Colour: apricot/salmon. Yeah well… Nose: indeed it is unlikely. Blackcurrant-flavoured Jell-O made with smoked water, Beaujolais that would have been stored near an old oil stove, smoked red peaches… And all that. And yet, there is a feeling of oneness that’s very… intriguing. Mouth: well, indeed, vive la difference. It’s a little rough around the edges, and there’s really a lot of bacon, cranberries and blood oranges, but the combo kind of works despite all these odd aspects. I also find a lot herbal tea, around cherry stems or blackcurrant buds. Indeed, it is ‘spécial’, in the French meaning of that word. Oh forget… Finish: quite long. I guess someone managed to smoke cassis. Comments: as long as there’s balance, I’m not against any form of experimentation. Not sure one would quaff a whole bottle in one go, but there. Score unchanged. SGP:645 - 84 points.

Good, we had PX and we had peat, let’s have both.

Benriach 1994/2013 (51.5%, OB for Independent Spirit, peated, PX sherry finish, cask #2993, 298 bottles)

Colour: amber. Nose: ah yes, it’s this combo that creates a lot of earth and leather, beyond any straight peat or straight sherry. More or less like nosing a box of sweetened cigars, or some strong Belgian Kriek beer. All sorts of old leather ware, saddles, bags, motorcycle jackets… There is a fruitiness as well, but it’s a little hesitant. Nectarines and cherries, perhaps? Mouth: rich, creamy, spicy and fruity. Its peaty but not that peaty – less so than some very lovely un-sherried 1994s by Signatory, for example. Or ex-hoggy OBs. Cigars, smoked ham, chutney, gingerbread, marmalade… Finish: long, rich, spicy. Lots and lots of smoky bitter oranges in the aftertaste. Comments: very good, I’d add ‘of course’, but I do prefer the zesty, straight, whistle-clean official hogsheads. Those often fetch 90-91 in my little tasting book. SGP:565 - 82 points. I know, forgot to add water. Too late.

Benriach 22 yo 1991/2014 (50.7%, The Whisky Agency, refill barrel, 182 bottles)

Aaahh, refill! BTW, I really like it that the bottlers decided to add their faces onto the labels. Apologies, guys. Colour: straw. Nose: yeah! Back to the distillate! It’s rather waxier and oilier than I would have thought, and unfolds on all orchard fruits known to Man. Plums are ahead in this case. Add a spoonful of light and delicate acacia honey, and you’ll have a good picture. Mouth: it’s almost light and liquid honey at first sips, before the fruits start to sing along. Apples and tangerines, so this one does have a tropical side. A touch of crystallised pineapples, also a little lemon. Finish: quite long, fresh and zesty. Like these touches of tobacco in the aftertaste. Comments: northern or tropical? I mean, the fruits? What’s sure is that this is some very good clean fruity Benriach. SGP:641 - 87 points.

Benriach 1991/2010 (57.2%, Scotch Single Malt Circle, bourbon, cask #32281, 209 bottles)

This one is for Bill Miller! Colour: pale gold. Nose: oh yes, this is complex, and goes beyond the fruits. Great notes of patchouli, tobacco, earthy tea, orange zests, old books… So it’s rather more tertiary than the Agency’s, but maybe that’s the higher strength. Let’s see. With water: sweet barley everywhere. Back to the roots! Mouth (neat): very creamy, rich, both thick and graceful. Moves like oil in your glass. Mandarin liqueur, limoncello, orange blossom water and sweet barley. Plus honey. With water: lemony barley goodness. Malt whisky as nature intended (are you sure, S.?) Finish: rather long. Overripe apples and gooseberries. Comments: I found this absolutely excellent. Pure clean well-distilled and well-aged malt whisky. Yeah, as nature intended. Well done Bill (and Maggie). SGP:641 - 90 points.

A last one for the road (always thought this expression was totally stupid, but there).

Benriach 29 yo 1984/2014 (50.3%, OB, Tawny Port Finish, cask #4051, 269 bottles)

A peated one. There you go, the unlikelies are back. Tawny and peat? And why not Lady Gaga with Tony Bennett? Colour: red amber. Nose: I don’t know, I really don’t know. Some new leather for sure, bitter oranges as well, ditto marmalade, limestone, gunflints… But in truth, it’s more or less like opening a new pack of cigarettes. As far as I can remember… With water: nicer. Oriental spices, tobacco, old leather jacket, soy sauce, old teas, dirty oil… Mouth (neat): starts very well, on marmalade, but some kind of greenish spiciness is soon to take over. Green pepper, rocks, French beans, blackcurrants, sloe, caraway. Indeed, all that’s a little unusual. With water: forget. Leather, tobacco, dark chocolate, prunes, brine, peat smoke. We ended up on Islay, it seems. I cannot not think of some old sherried Laphroaigs. Finish: long, meaty, kippery, leathery. Great finish. More bitter chocolate and coffee in the aftertaste. Comments: ups and downs, but it all ended greatly. Needs time… and water plus a good pipette. SGP:564 - 88 points.

Check the index of all Benriach I've tasted so far