August 24, 2014

The Quest for Malternatives on Sunday, a bunch of older rums

Well, at least there are suggestions that these rums are old, but thanks to the ‘solera’ trick (remember, what looks like the age may just be when a solera was started), the use of sugar and possibly heavy colouring and flavouring, some of them may well be much younger than they look…

Bally 1998 (43%, OB, rhum agricole, Martinique, +/-2013)

I liked the 2000, but I did not find it stellar (WF 78). Maybe two more years?... Colour: gold/orange. Nose: it’s a rather smooth and rounded agricole, but the style remains obvious, with many stewed sour fruits, apples, apricots, plums… Quite a lot of dry caramel too, some kind of light peat smoke, certainly a few cigars and then more incense. It’s fragrant and firm at the same time, with an ‘artisan’ feeling. Kind of anti-smooth, which is greatly welcome. After five minutes, you’d think you’re nosing a new pack of liquorice rolls. Mouth: very, very agricole. Heavy herbs, heavy liquorice, salmiak, roots, ginger and a little tar. No sugariness, hurray! This starts well, for once… Perfect body, tastes more like 46 or even 50% vol. Finish: very long, very liquoricy and pretty salty. A slight feeling of tequila. Comments: truly a big, full-bodied agricole. Liquorice abounds. I like it much, much better than the 2000. SGP:542 - around 85 points.

Centenario 25 yo 'Gran Reserva' (40%, OB, rum, Costa Rica, +/-2013)

Not much luck with the famous Centenarios so far, so let’s try this older one. Colour: reddish amber. Nose: it’s rather dusty at first nosing, then we have some cocoa powder, banana skin and… not much else. The Bally might have killed it, but I find it flat and un-aromatic, so to speak. Mouth: it’s one of these very sweet, liqueury and honeyed ones. Orange liqueurs and ripe mangos, plum jam, tinned fruits and more honey. Not much oomph either. Finish: rather short, with a little more coffee beyond the liqueurs. The sugar feels. Comments: it’s probably good stuff, but I’m sure it’s not my style. Too flat and sugary for me. SGP:820 - around 71 points.

All right, another go, with an even older Centenario. But remember these are ‘solera years’, so probably – not too sure – rather the age of the older constituent than that of the youngest.

Centenario 30 yo 'Edicion Limitada' (40%, OB, rum, Costa Rica, decanter, +/-2013)

Colour: orange amber. Nose: a dustiness coming out again, then more fragrant notes than in the 25. Roses, litchis (gewürztraminer style), orange blossom water… Quite some praline too, roasted hazelnuts, toasted brioche… It’s rather delicate and subtle, but the dustiness is a handicap. Mouth: another Centenario, another liqueur. We’re close to the 25 now, but it seems that there’s even more sugar, honey, maple syrup, caramel and various liqueurs. Maybe a few drops of pomegranate liqueur? What’s rather nice is this citrusy side that keeps it kind of alive. Blood oranges? Finish: rather short, very sweet. More liqueur. Comments: I liked this sweet bomb a little better than the 25, but again and again, this is absolutely not my style of spirit. Too much sugar. SGP:820 - around 72 points.

While we’re having some supposedly old ones…

Cubaney 25 yo 'Tesoro' (38%, OB, Dominican Republic, +/-2013)

More ‘solera age’. This is probably not ’25 anos’, as it says ’25 anos solera’ in small letters. Tiring. Luckily that wouldn’t be allowed in Scotchland! (or they would do it too.) Oh and Cubaney it may be, but it’s not Cuban. As for the 38% vol., don’t get me started. Colour: amber. Nose: it’s okay. Milk chocolate, honey sauce, vanilla, brioche, orange liqueur, molasses, menthol (a little.) We’ve seen worse. Mouth: yes it’s okay. A little flat but okay. Maple syrup, praline, caramel and cane syrup. Oops, almost forgot orange liqueur. And sugar. Finish: shortish, sugary, chocolaty. Pleasant honeyed notes. Comments: no interest whatsoever. Okay but boring and weakish. Pass. Okay? Nice label, though… SGP:720 - around 70 points.

Let’s go on. More supposedly old rum, and maybe more masochism…

Barceló 30 yo 'Imperial' (43%, OB, Dominican Republic, +/-2013)

Partly finished in Yquem casks. Erm, rings a bell. One of the kitschiest bottles I’ve seen – but the juice might be good, of course. And I’m sorry, but I feel the urge to copy-and-paste from the brand’s website: “The Barceló Imperial Premium Blend 30 Aniversario is the result of the marriage of ancient reserves of the Imperial to the noble cuts of American white oak barrels and the barrels of Chateau D'Yquiem, prestigious wine cellar with more than four centuries of history. These reserves accentuate the virtues most appreciated by connoisseurs who have recognized our laureate rum, as the best in the world, and it is then, with the elaboration of this 30th Anniversary, that is reached the exuberant nobility, exceptional taste, strength, complexity and high quality that characterizes this limited production.” Aren’t we stunned? Colour: red amber. Nose: not much. Mushrooms, perhaps. Moss, humus, wet grass, half a cigar, burnt caramel, toasted oak, roasted chestnuts… But wait, this is quite nice! Also broken branches, fresh walnuts, a hint of eucalyptus… It’s all rather subtle and elegant. Not big, but elegant indeed… Mouth: yes it’s pretty good rum, in my opinion. There’s some sugar but it’s not the first thing that jumps onto your tongue, there’s also more subtle touches of mint, liquorice, banana skins, chocolate ganache and, once again, roasted chestnuts that make it all quite pleasant. But there isn’t much body… Finish: short, a little more burnt and cooked. And the mushrooms are back. Dried porcinis? Comments: I’d drink it, that’s all I can say. But it’s light rum… SGP:630 - around 79 points.

A last one, maybe one that would be more… interesting?

Demerara 23 yo 1989/2012 (45%, Rum Nation, Guyana)

Rum Nation is Wilson & Morgan’s sister brand. In my experience, whisky bottlers do the better rums. Colour: red mahogany. Nose: yes! Sends all these hyper-branded old-solera-aged rums back to the school of sugar cane. It’s heavy, it’s fat, it’s ridden with tar, liquorice, tapenade, ink, engine oil and it’s just brilliant. As expected. Mouth: perfect Demerara, full of flaws and full of fun. Heavy liquorice again, brine, black olives, prunes, tar, fruitcake, smoked things, big black raisins (Corinth?) and smoked fish. You may add a quarter of black bitter chocolate. Finish: very long, oily and olive-y, with raisins and more smoked fish. Sea urchins? Sherry. The aftertaste is unexpectedly grapey and raisiny, so probably x-sherry. Comments: great heavy Demerara, pretty extreme despite the very ‘fair’ strength. Beats them all today. SGP:663 - around 87 points.

Check the index of all rums I've tasted so far