December 10, 2014

Three Old Fettercairn, new and old

Well I keep calling them ‘Old’ Fettercairn but most new bottlings have dropped the ‘old’. Because some have considered that could be misleading? Let’s see if these babies will be as butyric as Fettercairn can be (IMHO)…

Fettercairn 'Fasque' (42%, OB, +/-2014)

One of the countless new – and rather boring - NAS whiskies bearing strange names that are invading our shelves. Colour: amber. Nose: Mars bar and Ovaltine, then coffee and toasted bread, with just a wee whiff of struck matches and new leather. Also a load of natural caramel. Not unpleasant, and probably less ‘deviant’ than earlier young batches of Fettercairn. Mouth: it’s got that funny spiciness this time, we’re having some kind of blend of cooked honey, dry cocoa powder, dried parsley and unsweetened espresso. Becomes really dry after a few seconds. Strong black tea, chalk, marmalade. Finish: a little short, a tad cardboardy and very malty (Ovaltine again). Old walnuts in the aftertaste, a touch of Cynar (artichoke liqueur). Comments: I think I like it a little better than the ‘Fior’. SGP:361 - 78 points.

Fettercairn 24 yo 1990/2014 (46.4%, The Whisky Agency, Liquid Library, hogshead, 120 bottles)

Colour: white wine. Nose: it’s simply got what the (probably much younger and more oaked) OB did not have, that is to say vibrancy. I like that word! Granted, it’s got those notes of carbon paper and graphite oil that are a little unlikely in this context, but I really like these notes of freshly squeezed oranges, pumpernickel from this morning, violet sweets (nothing to do with Parma violets) and cranberry juice. Rather unusual, very interesting. Mouth: creamy, zesty, a little acrid just like the Fasque, but also ‘funnily’ fruity, with cranberries again, oranges, watermelon… Again, it’s a little strange, but it’s one entertaining malt. Finish: medium long, grassier. A little grenadine this time? Some tea again, some pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: I’m not Fettercairn’s biggest fan, but I think this baby’s one of the better ones. SGP:451 - 84 points.

Fettercairn 12 yo 1980/2012 (58.6%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, 150th Anniversary)

Fettercairn 12 yo 1980/1992 (58.6%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, 150th Anniversary)

If Cadenhead have chosen a 12 years old Fettercairn for this celebratory series, their must have been a reason, let’s see… Colour: amber. Nose: strong, spicy and fruity, then beautifully metallic and earthy. Fresh porcinis, moss, oranges, leather, tobacco… It seems to be very complex, but water is needed. With water: some sulphur coming out, but that goes away and quick. A superb leathery and mushroomy nose, plus many spices and assorted metals. A real Turkish bazaar! Mouth (neat): high impact, nutty and orangey arrival. Orange drops, ginger and pepper, angelica (never had this much angelica in a whisky!), then rather high-voltage chartreuse. Lots going on! With water: it’s become some kind of ueberSchweppes. I’m not 100% sure that’s a good thing, but unusual it is. Ginger, fruit drops and cardboard. Finish: long, very spicy. Tabasco and orange juice. Comments: fun whisky, really. Probably not very kosher, but I find it rather… hilarious? Worth a very high mark for sure. SGP:562 - 89 points.

Check the index of all Fettercairn I've tasted so far