September 25, 2014

The Unlikely Duos Number Two

We’ve got quite a few new Special Releases yet to taste, but instead of having the ‘sure bets’ (such as the 30yo Caol Ila) we’ll rather play it a bit Janssenist and first have the Benrinnes. Not that I don’t like Benrinnes, but indeed, the name’s a little more... unlikely. Opinions opinions.

Benrinnes 25 yo 1992/2014 (56.9%, OB, Special Release, 2892 bottles)

Benrinnes 21 yo 1992/2014 (56.9%, OB, Special Release, 2892 bottles)

Benrinnes in full sherry mode, fasten your seatbelts! And get your knives ready… Colour: full gold – not that dark for 100% sherry. Nose: bang, bang, bang. Old style malty rawish roughy meaty oily malty style. Yes I’ve written ‘malty’ twice. It’s quite aggressive but two other aromas come to my mind, beef jerky and marmalade. Some would have said ‘it’s evocative’. With water: hazelnuts come out, and the liquors made thereof by the Italians. Oh, and Nutella, tar, liquorice rolls, chocolate, ‘mineral’ sulphur... Mouth (neat): really punchy, really ‘Special Release’ whatever that means, mustardy, spicy and both mineral and tarry. Fat and almost brutal, but quite surprisingly, it’s kind of elegant. Maybe that’s the chocolate and mints? With water: some spicy oak coming out, grapefruits, angelica, gingerbread, curry powder… The whisky’s lifted a bit. Finish: very long, much spicier. Another whisky that reminds me of some peppered chocolate made in Spain (not Italy this time, although I believe they make some as well.) Comments: an oh-so-Diageo bottling, both spicy/oaky and true to the original distillate. I guess when you own so many distilleries, you have to make the styles stand out! Very good stuff. SGP:462 - 88 points.

The other one? Let’s select… oh let’s be lazy and choose another new Special Release…

Singleton of Glendullan 38 yo 1975/2014 (56.9%, OB, Special Release, 3,756 bottles)

Wow, almost 4,000 bottles of 38 years old Glendullan at £750 a bottle, that sounds like quite… the Everest. But is that expensive or is that cheap? Hard to say, after all we should care about the spirit, not about the name of the distilleries. Imagine this would be Port Ellen or Brora… Colour: gold. Nose: excuse me, but ‘wow!’ This is like a well polished old Jamaican rum, with plenty of essential oils and organic/mineral notes, plus a good deal of tropical fruits, but without any vulgarity. This is Glendullan, it’s not Versace. Almond oils, pine, marzipan, guavas, orange blossom, camphor… This could well be a winner, but let’s add water. Mind you, 57% vol. at almost 40 years! With water (with a huge viscimation ;-) – we’ve awaken the serpent!) : superb, with thousands of herbal teas, oils and embrocations. Humidor, cigars, eucalyptus, more oils… And maybe touches of white asparagus. Mouth: strong, spicy and candied. The spices are in the front, in fact, and I find the whole a little too strong. So… With water: the spices remain (cinnamon, paprika and nutmeg) but the fruits start to come out. Citrons, oranges, pomegranates (maybe)… Also more honey and pollen. Finish: long, zestier (which is great) and, of course, spicy. Cloves, cumin and pepper. Comments: of course they would have composed a super-vatting, or nothing at all. I find this Glendullan very impressive, you just have to accept quite a spiciness in your (old) malt. Beastly. SGP:571 - 91 points.