December 17, 2014

The Laphroaig Sessions, Part Two

Let’s start Part Two with a very young one, if you don’t mind…

Laphroaig 7 yo (54.9%, Jack Wiebers, Passenger Liners, 2013)

It would be hard to draw a label that would be more ‘maritime’ ;-). And beautiful! Colour: white wine. Nose: there, it’s purer than crystal, ultra-zesty, flinty, lemony, smoky of course. This baby isn’t particular about details, but despite the rising notes of pears and pineapples, signs of youth, the whole works a treat so far. With water: just pure perfect young Laphroaig. Lovely whiffs of tobacco and dried kelp. Mouth (neat): terrific young Laphroaig, as sharp as the sharpest blade (they used to make some in a village near my place named Klingenthal, but I digress…) Notes of briny mezcal, the best Williams pear spirit, olives, oysters… This is terrific! With water: perfection. Finish: long, very salty, smoky, coastal, only mildly medicinal. I believe Laphroaig has lost its medicinal side somehow, but this is still great. Comments: absolutely perfect. Would beat many older ones. SGP:547 - 90 points.

This started well!

Lp5 (52.4%, Specialty Drinks, Elements of Islay, 2014, 50cl)

Another new one by the Mendeleyevs of whisky, in London-on-the-Thames. Colour: straw. Nose: it’s a milder youngster, with more fresh fruits and less raw power. Peaches and gooseberries on a bed of peat smoke, iodine and dried kelp. A little antiseptic as well, just to contradict myself. With water: raw peat, sheep dung and kelp. A walk in… wait, say the Oa? Mouth (neat): oh this is quite perfect again. Pure peat, pepper and bitter oranges, without any fatness. It’s got some notes of some kind of sweet olives as well, a bit Nyons-style. By the way there won’t be much Provence olive oil this year because of a nasty Japanese fly called Suzuki (!) that literally slaughtered them all. Sorry, digressing again… With water: rather the sweeter side of Laphroaig. Maybe a wee bit too sweet for me, but that’s very all right. Finish: quite long, fruity, sweet. Smoky peaches and apricots. Comments: one of the fruitiest young Laphroaigs I could try. It’s like fruitier rieslings, they aren’t quite what you’d expect from riesling, but they can work. SGP:547 - 86 points.

While we’re in London…

Laphroaig 18 yo (50.9%, The Whisky Exchange, bourbon, 2014)

This baby should be a 1995 or a 1996. Aren’t we good at math? Colour: gold. Nose: it’s a relatively mild one, with something old style indeed, which goes well with the retro label. Such as a lighter peat and rather more tropical fruits, mango chutney, then more vanilla and hints of coconut and sawdust. Just hints! With water: oh yes, some lovely whiffs of fresh herbs, chives, lemongrass… And a little sheep dung again. Welcome to Islay! Mouth (neat): it’s a drinkable Laphroaig. Don’t get me wrong, Laphroaig’s always drinkable, but this one’s a little easier, while retaining the smoky side, the citrus, the iodine and the smoke. Some sweeter oak behind all that? I find hints of grenadine. With water: very very good. But let me issue a warning, this is too drinkable. Finish: not the longest ever, but it’s got some great notes of apple peelings, green tobacco, tea… And lemon! Comments: a great variant, so not the usual very-very-good-but-a-wee-tad-boring mid-to-late 1990s Laphroaig. SGP:457 - 88 points.

Oh, after the great 7yo by Jack Wiebers, we could also try this earlier oddity…

Laphroaig 13 yo 1996/2009 (51%, Jack Wiebers, Auld Distillers, Lafite finish, 180 bottles)

A Laphroaig Lafite finish! The alliteration works, no doubt, but the whisky? Colour: pale apricot. Nose: well well well, this isn’t ugly. Mullein flowers, apricots, peaches, even something muscatel, notes of all-vitamins fruit juice, then some kind of smoked butterscotch, coconut milk and fudge. A discreet sulphury side as well. What I enjoy is the fact that there’s no straight cabernetty feeling here, well done. Not first fill, I guess… With water: not quite. Doesn’t swim too well, it got oddly farmy for Laphroaig. Whiffs of manure. Mouth (neat): no, not quite, it’s starting to be dissonant. Too many spices from French oak? With water: well, it’s all right, it’s got nicer notes of ripe gooseberries. Finish: good length. Some sweet fruit sauce with spices. Ginger. Comments: we’ve tasted worse. I find it okay. Ish. SGP:655 - 78 points.

Laphroaig 12 yo 1998/2010 ‘The Moon’ (59.9%, Shinanoya, Japan, sherry, cask #800043, 288 bottles)

I believe that one was a butt that was shared with the Scotch Single Malt Circle in Germany. Colour: amber. Nose: it starts very flinty and leathery, like many sherried peaters. Lots of old walnuts, engine oil, bark, whiffs of exhaust fumes… It’s all very dry and pretty austere. The smoke’s huge. Also some earthy truffles. With water: wonderful, everything gets easier, beautifully earthy and mushroomy. Visiting the working kiln. Mouth (neat): bitter chocolate and oranges, lots of oranges, then a massive peppery side, smoked ham, more leather again, crystallised oranges… Certainly not an easy Laphroaig! With water: more sweetness and even more smoke and pepper. Peppered strawberries? Raisins, orange blossom water… Finish: long and peppery. Also more cloves this time. Comments: a bit brutal when undiluted, but it became more affable when appropriately reduced. SGP:467 - 88 points.

Check the index of all Laphroaig I've tasted so far

(Thank you Konstantin and Ulli)