May 26, 2014

Tasting three new Imperial

Imperial, another name that’s pretty much revived now that the original distillery’s been destroyed. There’ve been some great ones in the last couple of years.

Imperial 18 yo 1995/2014 (51.9%, Signatory Vintage, hogsheads, casks #50143+50144, 573 bottles)

Colour: straw. Nose: of this is rather unusual, with a fino-ish character at first nosing, with even notes of bone dry manzanilla, vin jaune, walnuts, mustard, leaves and earth… There’s also an even more unusual smokiness that really hints at artisan mezcal. I’m dead serious! It’s only after a good three minutes that more sweet garden fruits as well as some vanilla are coming through, making this baby a little more, say regular. With water: becomes musty and kind of acetic, which is fun. Wine vinegar – well, drops. And I wouldn’t quote gym socks, but… But all that tends to go away, which is cool. Some things happening in this Imperial. Mouth (neat): it’s funny how the mustardy side remained there, while many more zesty and even acidic fruits are lifting it. Grapefruits, rhubarb, kiwis… This is fun! With water: drier, earthier. And much less fruity. Finish: good length. Lemons, wax and drops of seawater. Comments: a very active whisky, with lots of character. Tells you stories, even dirty ones. SGP:552 - 88 points.

Imperial 17 yo 1995/2013 (55%, Berry Bros & Rudd for Whisky.com.tw, cask #50347)

From more or less the same stock as that of Signatory, according to the cask numbers. Colour: white wine. Nose: less aromatic oak and herbs, more straight fruits, porridge and a combination of aniseed and mint. Some custard too, warm croissants… So yes, it’s rather more ‘usual’ so far. With water: becomes sootier, unlike the above sister casks. Slightly dirty (old basement). Mouth (neat): almost the same citric explosion as in the Signatory, but this time the cask seems to be more talkative, which is a little strange given the lighter colour. You know, colours… There’s also quite some lime mixed with strong green tea and white pepper. With water: same as above. Cactus juice, vegetables, earth. Fun stuff. Finish: medium length. Rather sooty/earthy/mustardy. Comments: another excellent one in my book. Utterly un-modern. SGP:452 - 87 points.

Imperial 23 yo 1990/2014 (55.7%, Jack Wiebers, Old Train Line, bourbon, cask #1360161, 354 bottles)

Colour: gold. Nose: this time it’s rather the wood’s chocolaty side that’s talking first, then we have notes of tapioca, one or three dried mushrooms (porcinis), some tobacco and cinnamon and just touches of tar and liquorice. Then a little yeasty beer, so ale and even drops of stout. It’s a big one! With water: love this. Old vin jaune! Mouth (neat): oh lovely. Rich yet nervous, candied, citrusy, with these notes of tobacco again, lemon liqueur, almond oil, mint lozenges… and a lot of liquorice. Very concentrated. With water: once again, it becomes drier, even a little acrid, but I like that. Powdered porcinis and leather. Finish: quite long and extremely manzanilla-ish, with this saltiness, the walnuts, apple peelings… Comments: I’m really very fond of this very dry style. SGP:352 - 89 points.

Check the index of all Imperial I've tasted so far