November 17, 2014

Tasting three finished Dalmore

I know I had sworn I’d never taste one of the insanely priced Dalmore ‘Constellation’, but now that the dust has settled, I think we could try two of them (mind you, we’ve only got two anyway.) But first, an intriguing indie…

Dalmore 13 yo 2000/2013 (56.3%, Single Cask Collection, Willy Opitz Homok finish)

A very unlikely treatment, that’s what I had thought the first time I could try one of these Austrian finishes, a Coal Ila if I remember well. It was terrific! (WF 90). Colour: gold. Nose: how do you call oranges on oranges? I mean, Dalmore’s oranges plus the wine’s oranges? No wonder this works, as do work the notes of tobacco, new leather, wholegrain bread and gingerbread. We’re almost nosing a slice of fresh pumpernickel with a good layer of marmalade on it. Can you be more breakfasty? With water: notes of limestone and damp clay come out. Sour dough. Love this. Mouth (neat): it’s American Scotch. I find rye, I find notes of craft whiskey ala Sonoma or FEW, all that may well come from the very active cask. So it’s not Scotch anymore, seriously, but it’s just excellent. With water: even more excellent. Everything works, the creamy texture, the spices, the rounded fruitiness (oranges, quinces)… I think they’re onto something! Finish: long, sweet and spicy. The best liquid gingerbread ever. Comments: success again. This Homok thing works a treat – yes, Serge speaking. SGP:642 - 90 points.

And now, the officials.

Dalmore 19 yo 1992/2012 'Constellation' (53.8%, OB, first fill bourbon barrel, finished for 9 years in a Port pipe, cask #18)

The price is/was £2,000 a bottle. More double maturing than finishing. Colour: dark amber. Nose: well, it is true that this nose is superb. It’s very coherent, rounded, and yet there’s a firmness. I find notes of Cuban cigars, a touch of thuja wood, the expected oranges, a little milk chocolate, some marzipan for sure, some gingerbread, then pomegranates and cranberries, a growing floral side (peonies – typical Port), but much less cassis/blackcurrant than in other Port finishes. At this price, I’d have liked to be able to write that it’s quite crappy, but in fact it’s pretty brilliant. What a hard life. With water: perfect! A light, spicy fruitcake. Mouth (neat): it is fruity, rather around raisins and figs at first sips, then pretty much on cassis jam and crème. We’re almost in Dijon, capital city of Burgundy and home of the most famous crèmes de cassis! The miracle is that they managed to keep it balanced and even elegant. More Cointreau and white pepper after a little while, as well as a little greenness (Japanese green tea). With water: more bitter oranges, which works very well. Finish: quite long and much spicier. Cloves, caraway, ginger… Comments: greatly and smartly composed. Could this baby be the youngest… and the best within the series? SGP:562 - 92 points.

Dalmore 38 yo 1973/2012 ‘Constellation’ (48.1%, OB, hogsheads, finished for 3 years in a cabernet sauvignon, then for four years in fresh bourbon, cask #10)

Dalmore 38 yo 1973/2012 ‘Constellation’ (48.1%, OB, hogsheads, finished for 3 years in a cabernet sauvignon, then for four years in fresh bourbon, cask #10) £11,000, my friend. Colour: dark amber, lighter than the 1992. Nose: much more oak, which may come from the finishing in bourbon. There are spices like in bourbon, a little nail polish remover, then plenty of coconut and vanilla pods. What’s unusual is the layer of red berries beneath all that, especially blackberries, blackcurrants and raspberries. I also find ripe figs, as well as this gingerbread that already was in the 1992, while the notes of freshly sawn American oak would never quite disappear. With water: they come even further to the front. Chocolate, ginger and green pepper. Mouth (neat): really, it’s very ‘bourbon’. It reminds me of one of my favourite – if not my favourite – bourbons, Willet’s Kentucky Crown 16 yo. The oak shows more and more, you have to like that. With water: takes water well, but the oak’s still calling the shots. Finish: of medium length, curiously bready. That’s the oak again, I guess. Comments: a curious oaky combination. I think it’s very, very good whisky, and I’m not sure we should always try to put any tipple on its square, but all I can say is that I liked the 1992 better. SGP:561 - 87 points.

Check the index of all Dalmore I've tasted so far

Pete McPeat and Jack Washback