Tasting the brand new Craigellachies

October 8, 2014

	Tasting the brand new Craigellachies
	So there are new, relaunched yet ultra-retro official Craigellachies, and it’s time to try them, but first, let’s have a very naked young one as the aperitif. Naked according to its colour, at least…

Craigellachie 10 yo 2003/2014 (46%, Douglas Laing, Provenance, cask #10180)

Colour: very pale white wine, so almost white. Nose: as bready, yeasty and beery as plain new make, so probably not totally mature, but I have to say I’m liking more and more these kinds of profiles. A new youngster that’s not ridden with new oak or wine, hurray! Also cider apples, a touch of mezcal, wholegrain bread, mashed celeriac, ale… Mouth: same. Sweet, grassy and spicy raw malted barley spirit – not exactly whisky, in fact – akin to pot still vodka, in a way. Again, I enjoy feeling the barley, although this kind of baby could be better on ice. In any case, it is a nice distillate, with some kind of fatness. Finish: long, with more fruits again, and certainly a grappa side. Or is that young marc de Bourgogne? Comments: not a wonder amongst the wonders, and it’s certainly too young, but yeah, it’s fun to try ‘white malt whisky’. Soon at the OBs? SGP:551 - 80 points.

Craigellachie 13 yo (46%, OB, 2014)

You couldn’t make a label look more ‘retro’, could you! Unless you start using hieroglyphs or cuneiform alphabet. Colour: straw. Nose: it is a milder, rounder and sweeter version of the 2003, but the background is similar. Wee touches of mezcal again, a little earth, a little sulphur (spirit sulphur) that borders almondiness (what?), plenty of apples and then a few raisins and a touch of vanilla. It’s got a style, and that’s just great, even if it does nose a little young, almost as much so as the DL. Mouth: a few burnt notes in the attack, notes of distillation, cooked sugar and herbs… But it gets then cleaner, maltier and slightly smoky, with a bitterish edge. May lack a part of the DL’s vibrancy (as the pros say.) Finish: rather long, between candy sugar and this bitter side. Grapefruit skin. Comments: mixed feelings here. On the one hand, I find the honesty and the nakedness fantastic, it’s not botoxed whisky at all. On the other hand, I find it a little raw and bitter. Let’s try the older ones… SGP:451 – 79 points.

Craigellachie 17 yo (46%, OB, 2014)

Colour: pale gold. Nose: not that far from the 13, but with even more roundness and probably more vanilla. Tarte tatin, almonds, paraffin, a wee medicinal side (eucalyptus?) and then more fresh oak, that is to say more vanilla and grated coconut. Newly sawn oak. I like. Mouth: same feeling, it hasn’t lost any of the 13’s ‘nervous sides’, and in fact it’s zestier, more lemony (artisan limoncello), maybe a little ala Rosebank, if you see what I mean. That’s an asset! Nice clean and fresh, I like this. The oak’s never ‘too much’ and just imparts sweeter notes of coconut again. Just a little, this is no pina colada at 46% vol. Maybe also just a wee touch of soap. Finish: of medium length, clean, fresh, lemony and malty. Comments: way above the 13 in my opinion. Beautiful freshness and it’s got plenty of character. Not ‘just any Speysider’, and to paraphrase Serge Gainsbourg, it is ‘loyal, honest and straight’. SGP:551 - 84 points.

Craigellachie 23 yo (46%, OB, 2014)

I’ve seen a price of £375 online, but that cannot not be a typo, whichever the quality. Colour: gold. Nose: right, we’re way above both the 13 and the 17, for sure. This is much more complex, with more herbs and tart fruits, kiwis, grapefruits, rhubarb, then tobacco and clay, marzipan, then more earth, citrons, old style mouthwash (we had one called Eau de Botot a long time ago), then a steely touch, metal polish… I have to say this baby noses older than 23, and once again I cannot not think of some great old Rosebank, such as the official 20yo white label. A great surprise. Mouth: good, this is really very good. Love the nutty/almondy character, the waxy mouth feel, all the lemons and grapefruits, the light peppery side, the evanescent medicinal profile (good antiseptic – should that exist), the touches of absinth and limoncello (again), the solid peppery backbone… Really high class! Finish: long, chiselled, like a great old dry chenin from a good house. Comments: an impressively zesty and yet fat profile, right between the northern style (Clynelish) and the southern one (Rosebank.) I love this style, especially since no oaky trick’s been played, apparently. Try to try this great new baby! SGP:561 - 91 points.

Check the index of all Craigellachie I've tasted so far