Tasting: more Pappy than Pappy!

I thought we could try more Bourbons and American whiskeys today, while keeping in mind that I remain a humble apprentice. We’ll add a few old bottlings for once, not that I’ve never seen any before, but I had always thought tasting some while I was totally inexperienced would have meant throwing pearls before swine. Not sure that changed much, having said that… We’ll have the oldies first, since their strengths are lower. They’re not bourbons bearing the name “Pappy Van Winkle”, they’re bourbons made by Pappy Van Winkle.

Old Fitzgerald 6 yo 1960/1966 'Venetian Decanter' (43%, OB, Stitzel-Weller)

It seems that these babies were widely available, including abroad. For example, this is an Italian bottling. You’ll learn much more about them at the excellent Los Angeles Whisky Society. Colour: gold/orangey. Nose: smooth and mellow, much rounded, very easy, with some vanilla fudge, a little coconut liqueur, some maple syrup and a touch of mint. Again, this is smooth and easy, but certainly neither flat nor weak. The coconut tends to take the lead after one minute, we’re almost nosing coconut butter. Mouth: much fruitier and spicier than contemporary bourbons, and much less dominated by vanilla and other oak extracts, although some coconut there is. What’s amazing is that this bourbon is in perfect shape after almost 50 years in a (rather lousy) decanter. There’s probably quite some rye, with a feeling of juniper, some bitter oranges, some grenadine, some maple syrup again, two drops of stout… I certainly enjoy this! Finish: not too long, rounder and smoother, with more toffee. The spiciness (cloves) remains in the aftertaste. Comments: much to my liking. The Very Old Fitzgeralds from that era were probably in a higher league, but this is already ‘very good’! SGP:641 - 88 points.

Old Fitzgerald 6 yo 1958/1965 'Four Seasons Decanter' (43%, OB, Stitzel-Weller)

Not too sure whether the content of these decanters used to change much, or if Mr. Van Winkle used to seek consistency throughout the years, let’s see… Colour: gold/orangey. These colours usually suggest the use of caramel colouring, but I’m not sure that was legal at the time for bourbon. Nose: we’ve got our answer, this is very different. It’s got much more asperities, less roundness, less coconut for sure, and rather more straight oak. Pencil shavings vs coconut, that’s the game here, but I couldn’t tell you which one I prefer. Yet. Mouth: exactly the same feeling, this is oakier, bigger, more modern perhaps. Or maybe was the decanter even more airtight. Touches of varnish and vanilla, then lavender drops, sour wood, liquorice and cloves. Finish: medium length. Very spicy, even herbal. Cumin and cloves in the aftertaste. Comments: I think I liked the Venetian a little better altogether, it was more elegant and more charming, if not more subtle. SGP:551 - 85 points.

Original ad for the Four Seasons decanter, 1965

Old Fitzgerald 6 yo 1966/1972 'Classic Decanter' (100° US proof, OB, Stitzel-Weller)

The others were bottled for Italy, hence their ‘ABV’ statements, while this is an American bottle, bottled at a higher proof. The bald eagle gives that away anyway. Colour: red amber, so much darker. Nose: ah, this is certainly different. There’s some wood smoke, some liquorice, a lot of burnt cake and bread, then herbs, moss, chives, aniseed… Even a little ham, I think. I think we’ll try to add a few drops of water. With water: it got rather earthy, not something I’ve often encountered in bourbon. Well, in the few bourbons I’ve tried so far. Much more menthol as well, then a small feeling of soapy coconut, not unpleasant. Mouth (neat): high concentration, fully liquoricy, a little biting, with some aniseed, pastis, cloves, juniper… There’s a feeling of oak-aged gin, if you see what I mean. Big body, lots happening. With water: the oak’s spices come out more, and it loses all sweetness, which ain’t too good if you ask me. Very dry and drying. Finish: as drying as strong cold tea when reduced, perfectly spicy when neat. Herbal liqueur, bitter oranges. Pomegranates? Comments: careful with water! Other than that, it’s some big spicy and ‘nervous’ bourbon. I still prefer the charms of Venezia. SGP:461 - 85 points.

Time to try some contemporary ones…

Buffalo Trace 2001/2013 'Wheat 105' (45%, OB, Experimental Collection)

I know, I should have tried to put my hands on some new Pappy instead. You can only do your best. As for this baby, there’s more literature on the label than in the Library of Congress, so we won’t bother… You see, it’s experimental. Colour: amber. Nose: I like! Sure the oak’s a little too dominant for my taste, and yes there’s a little glue and varnish and even nail polish remover, but other than that, it’s a clean, rather fresh nose, with some mellowness, some sweet corn (I know) and whiffs of warm croissants straight from the oven, as well as fresh walnuts and almonds. There’s less happening than in the Stitzel-Wellers, but I like. Mouth: it’s a good spirit, with some sour wood, a funny herbal combination (zucchinis, chives, parsley), then more vanilla, a little flour, maybe a little stewed rhubarb, baked apples… I wouldn’t say the spirit was characterful, but the oak was good. Finish: good length, sweet, with some ripe strawberries coming through. Very sweet Haribo stuff. Comments: as I said, I don’t think there was much character in the first place – and some Scottish grains can be like that – but the barrels were rather impeccable IMHO. SGP:540 - 81 points.

While we’re having unusual stuff…

Rock Town 'Arkansas Hickory Smoked Whiskey' (45%, OB, +/-2014)

I had found their ultra-young baby bourbon excellent (WF 83). Very curious about this one… Colour: pale gold. Nose: I like bready whiskies more and more. Maybe that’s because I love good bread. This is as bready as whisky can get. I don’t find much smoke, but who cares. This is like putting your nose over a frühstuck table in a ***** ski hotel somewhere in Tyrol or Bavaria. You know, when they have a good thirty different wholegrain breads. No, not in Aspen and not in Squaw Valley. Mouth: same. There might be some kind of acridish smoke, and probably a good share of ginger and cinnamon from the wood, but what I like most in this baby is the spicy bread. Isn’t it refreshing to find the raw ingredients in any spirit? Finish: long, maybe a little too drying now, almost too bitter and tannic. Comments: I don’t know how old this is, it’s probably very young, but despite the slightly too extractive side (very small casks?), well, it’s one of my stuffs these days. I find this more honest and loyal than buying good readymade juice somewhere else. And yes it’s wheat. SGP:452 - 84 points.

James E. Pepper ‘1776’ (100° US proof, OB, straight bourbon, +/-2014)

An old brand and sourced stuff. We won’t read the long blurb on the website, but I’m sure they hand-pick and blend only the best barrels from Lawrenceburg, while building their own distillery. Where have we heard that already? As for the '1776' mention, it's a bit confusing, as I've also seen 1780 in older ads (founding year), as well as 1773. No, not 1492. Colour: full gold. Nose: of course it’s very nice, rounded, honeyed, vanilla-ed, full of maple syrup and soft spices, toffee and butterscotch, cinnamon and caramel… Mouth: and sure it’s quite perfect, sweet and spicy, with good oak, good pepper (no kiddin’), good vanilla, good toffee, good caramel, nice touches of coconut, custard, lavender sweets… Even the mouth feel is perfect. Finish: and the finish is in keeping with the palate, just spicier as always. And the aftertaste is appropriately peppery. Plum spirit and gin. Comments: yeah, it’s technically very good, for sure. And we don’t score stories, do we. The whole shebang is just a little infuriating. Oops, forgot to add water. SGP:641 - 84 points.

James E. Pepper ad, 1941

Four Roses 'Single Barrel 2014' (54%, OB, cask #471T)

It seems that an older batch has won a huge award next year (don’t ask). A lot of cryptic data surrounding this very expensive bottle, apparently it’s 11 years old, it’s been distilled using an OESF mashbill, which seems to mean that there isn’t much rye. Colour: gold. Nose: a little shy and gentle, and that should be the high strength. Cake and honey, corn syrup and custard. That’s more or less all I get this far. With water: wood. Newly sawn plank at the nearest DIY store. Mouth (neat): full-blown bourbon at high strength, a little estery and very cake-y, with some vanilla, sawdust and then various berries, raspberries, strawberries, other berries… I think the alcohol blocks it a bit, yet again. With water: rounder of course, but the oak’s too loud for my taste. Finish: long, a little bitter and very oaky. Comments: I find this very disappointing, I think it’s all oak. I found the cheaper Small Batch versions I could try much, much, and I mean much better. I mean, more to my liking. This is not really my style, that’s all. SGP:371 - 69 points.

Time to put an end to this madness…

Elijah Craig 12 yo ‘Barrel Proof' (66.2%, OB, +/-2014)

Yah! This baby from Heaven Hill seems to have convinced many a bourbon lover already, but we’ll stay strong and won’t get influenced! Colour: deep red amber. Nose: no, this is not nose-able. Cellulose and coconut-scented varnish galore! With water: sweet coconutty oak plus banana flambéed and a feeling of lake water (I know what I’m trying to say). That brings freshness, always welcome. Mouth (neat): I’m afraid I like this, even at this strength. Some kind of coconut sweetness made by some kind of Haribo. Highly regressive, in other words. With water: there, this is excellent. Sweet gin, banana liqueur, coconut liqueur (Malibu-like but so much better), and again this kind of earthiness (the lake water thing in the nose) that brings more dimension and depth – although it remains pretty simple spirit. Finish: long, sweet but with some backbone, earthier and grassier than other bourbons I could try… Comments: this one really killed the Four Roses, head to head. And yet it seems that it is/was cheaper. Life is a drag. SGP:551 - 85 points.

(thank you Giovanni)

Check the index of all American whiskies I've tasted so far



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