December 28, 2014

Sunday Malternatives, quatro mezcales

I’ve only tasted around 25 mezcals so far, so any Mexican cab driver will be much more experienced than yours truly. Having said that, I’ve already discovered some great ones, especially some that were distilled from wild agaves such as tobala. That’s probably the main difference with tequila, which has to be distilled from blue agave, while you can use many varieties for mezcal. Including more qualitative ones.

San Cosme (40%, OB, mezcal, joven, +/-2013)

This small batch unaged mezcal from Santiago Matatlán in Oaxaca is distilled from espadin, which is mainly a cultivated agave. They use copper stills, not stone, and the brand seems to be very recent. Colour: white. Nose: it’s a pretty smoky mezcal, very earthy too, a style that’s certainly akin to that of Ardbeg or Laphroaig, in a way. This baby does, in fact, nose almost like Laphroaig’s newmake, only without any pear or pineapple notes. Very intriguing… Mouth: some punch at 40% vol. Once again we’re almost on Islay, with really a lot of smoke, ashes and earth, then more briny notes, olives, maybe seaweed… It’s maybe a little astringent too, this is certainly not smooth and polished spirit. And yes there’s something medicinal as well (disinfectant), as well as a little lemon and salt. Slainthe! Finish: rather long, very earthy and ashy, with notes of burnt herbs in the aftertaste. Comments: it would be fun to try this at 50 or 60% vol. Blind! It’s to be noted that the price is relatively fair, around 30€. SGP:354 - 82 points.

Pierde Almas 'La Puritita Verda' (40%, OB, mezcal, joven, +/-2014)

Artisan mezcal again, fully espadin, distilled in copper. We had tried a stronger Pierde Almas two year ago, and found it rather smooth and not hugely smoky. This version is meant to be the lighter brother. Colour: white. Nose: indeed it is much lighter and rounder than the San Cosme, rather more on fresh lemons and green apples, then green olives and a faint cologny touch. It’s very clean, easy, and fresh. Who wouldn’t like this very easy nose? Mouth: we’re extremely close to the San Cosme now, it’s a very similar spirit, just a little lighter, more citrusy, and less earthy/smoky. Finish: rather long, a little rougher, a little less chiselled. Funny touches of caraway and aniseed in the aftertaste. Comments: certainly less ‘Laphroaig’, but good quality joven nonetheless. SGP:452 - 78 points.

Del Maguey 'Wild Papalome' (45%, OB, mezcal, joven, +/-2014)

Del Maguey have been the pioneers of ‘modern’ mezcal. Papalome (first time I’m encountering this) is a rather squat wild agave that, apparently, is mainly used to produce an agave liqueur called bacanora. Colour: white. Nose: it’s a fatter, greasier mezcal after the rather fresh San Cosme and Pierde Almas. It’s rawer as well, with hints of raw kirsch and slightly burnt eau-de-vie, then rather green pepper. Also whiffs of tinned capers, a drop of patchouli essence, then more and more tobacco. Lots happening in there… Mouth: indeed it is fatter, earthier as well, a little sour, a little dirty, and certainly spicier than the others. Not an easy mezcal for sure. After ten minutes, we’re rather having concentrated lemon juice, a little salted fish, chilli, ash and earth, then more and more grapefruits. Quite an experience! Finish: long, much tenser, sharp, chiselled… And very peppery. A drop of Tabasco in the aftertaste – or would that be Worcester sauce? There’s also a welcome fruitiness. Pomegranates? More grapefruits as well. Comments: a beastly mezcal, not one you’d enjoy ‘just like this’. What’s sure is that it’s very complex, but it lost me a bit. Maybe I’m not qualified enough. SGP:462 - 81 points.

A last one…

Bruxo No.1 (46%, OB, mezcal, joven, +/-2013)

100% espadin. Bruxo seems to mean witch in Spanish, so we might have to be careful… Colour: white. Nose: it’s much rounder, seemingly sweeter, and less mezcaly than all the others. Mild wood smoke, some smoked ham, then a little damp earth and whiffs of overripe fruits. Pineapples? Pleasantly and nicely balanced, but it doesn’t seem be one of those punchy and smoky and grassy mezcals. Mouth: it is punchy, but that’s more the alcohol. Peppermint, ashes, burnt wood, lemon. It’s a rather simple one, quite easy, certainly ‘good’ but probably not mindboggling. Kind of the exact opposite of Del Maguey’s papalome. Finish: rather long, on a curious blend of pink grapefruit and pepper. Comments: one mezcal that’s not a smoky one. Enjoyable for sure, just not extremely ‘interesting’ in my book. But the fruitiness was very appealing. SGP:551 - 76 points.

Check the index of all Mezcals I've tasted so far