‘Old’ ones at 35 years of age

September 18, 2014

WF 10000 medal

‘Old’ ones at 35 years of age

I think I forgot to tell you that we’ll only select high flyers for these celebratory sessions. I’m meaning 90+, unless I fail. But no need to tell you why I’ve decided to pair the two babies we’ll have today. I agree this does not make much sense once again – the idea’s abysmally weird, in fact - but I had though it would be fun to taste two ‘old Old’ of very similar ages. A double O, in a sense, but sadly no Stromness! (whisky historians and lovers of oldies will underst… oh forget!)

Old Pulteney 35 yo (42.5%, OB, 2014)

This new old Old Pulteney comes from a combination of bourbon and sherry casks, and is relatively fairly priced (at 600€ - gosh I'd never have thought I'd write that.) Colour: ancient gold. Nose: this is subtle, starting with whiffs of quince cake, overripe apples, oranges and eucalyptus leaves, as well as a little patchouli and ‘old suitcase full of old papers.’ Very delicate, and indeed it reminds me of last year’s 40 yo – or was that the year before? I also get distant notes of sauna, or would that be a Moroccan hammam? And then more cassis/blackcurrant, both buds and berries, maybe coated with milk chocolate. All subtle, bordering fragility, maybe… After fifteen minutes, much more brioche, honey, cake, praline, raisins… Mouth: who said it would be fragile? The arrival is rather perfect, fruity, almost youthful, without any straight oakiness. Rather notes of oranges again, cooked rhubarb – or jam, light golden raisins, a little honeydew and mead… At the spice department we’re rather having cinnamon and a little caraway, while the sherry’s becoming a little more obvious, with some kind of spicy walnut. The mouth feel is more than acceptable despite the low strength and the old age. Finish: good length, maybe a notch drier and just a wee bit bitter towards the aftertaste, but that’s the old age and that’s normal. A salty touch. Comments: not tired, this one, and it’s certainly less ‘fragile’ than the 40yo (and yet the 40 yo was much higher in alcohol.) Only complain, it’s too easily quaffable at 600€ a bottle! Really excellent. SGP:551 - 90 points (but 91+ without the finish/aftertaste).

Old Fettercairn 34 yo 1975/2009 (57.2%, Whisky-Fässle, Bourbon hogshead)

The only other +/-35 yo whisky I have that I've not tasted yet and that starts with the word 'Old'. No I haven't gotten any 35 years old Old Rhosdhu! Having said that I remember two Fettercairns 1975 by The Whisky Agency that have been pretty brilliant (both WF 91.) Colour: deep gold. Nose: a different beast for sure, but oddly enough, there are similarities. It’s not one of these whacky old Fettercairns at all, and although there is a little engine oil and maybe traces of a kind of green pitchiness (geee), the vast majority consists in fruits, both fresh and as jams. Lemon, plums and green melons, I’d say. Rather tobacco in the background. With water: wax and grapefruits, in a Clynelishian manner. Mouth (neat): very big, and quite strange, in a good way. We’re well at Fettercairn’s – Fettercairn’s finest. Plenty of walnut and apple skins, quite a lot of menthol (mint lozenges), then more ginger, tonic water, Campari and… smoked bacon! Beautifully weird. With water: more gingery, cinchona-like flavours plus bitter oranges and almonds. Finish: long, lemony, waxy, almost resinous, with a dry aftertaste on chlorophyll and paraffin. Comments: vive la difference! SGP:562 - 91 points.

PS: again, don’t be surprised by the high scores, that’s these sessions’ whole point!