August 25, 2014

Ledaig

Could someone please tell me why Ledaig, aka peated Tobermony, can be very good and mature when pretty young, while most peaty Islayers, especially the Kildalton malts, need more years? Today let’s have a few 2005, and then we may go back in time…

Ledaig 8 yo 2005/2013 (46%, Hunter Laing, Hepburn's Choice, 382 bottles)

Colour: as white as the whitest white wine. Nose: now I know, it’s the mezcaly side that I enjoy so much. This feeling of smoked brine or seawater, the thick layer of soot and ashes, the impression that you’re wandering on an old pile of coal in an abandoned basement… So, I like despite the rather minimalist profile. Mouth: it’s a little dirtier and ‘organic’, much less precise and even kind of burnt. Burnt fruits and wood. Also some weird notes of overcooked smoked ham – or sausages? A pity because what’s behind all that seems to be great. Brine, lemon, sardines… Wait, the nasty notes went away after ten minutes, hurray! Finish: quite long, rather on burnt herbs this time. Good burnt herbs. The aftertaste is nicer, though, cleaner. Comments: a bit nasty at first, but fun and it got cleaner. And mezcaly indeed. Mezcal on Mull! SGP:365 - 85 points.

Ledaig 8 yo 2005/2014 (53.3%, Whisky-Fässle, bourbon hogshead)

Colour: very white wine. Nose: very similar, of course, but this one’s rather rounder, and has fewer notes of smoky mezcal. Big soot, ashes, coal, tar, crushed sardines (paste), tarama… And a little vanilla. With water: stays a bit soapy for a long time, and then everything gets better again. Smoked vegetables, gherkins, olives and a massive sootiness. Mouth (neat): everything’s perfect in this one. Perfect brine, lemon juice, smoked fish, olives, smoked tea, more lemon juice… With water: balanced lemon, salt and kippers. What’s not to like? Finish: same for a long time. Comments: it’s infuriating that these Ledaigs could be so good when so young. That’s both unjust and unfair. Oh well… But watch out, I’ve found some flawed ones as well in the past. SGP:456 - 87 points.

Ledaig 8 yo 2005/2013 (54.2%, Maltbarn, bourbon barrel)

Colour: very pale white wine. Nose: and sweeter yet, even if styles are similar. This time there are fruits coming through, around pineapples and pears. That’s youth. The problem, if I may, is that they are blending extremely well with the briny and ashy and smoky style of this baby. With water: not anymore, this one’s now greasier, sootier, with notes of damp earth and our dear friends the wet dogs (I’m sorry, dogs.) Mouth (neat): check the Whisky-Fässle, we’re in the same ballpark. With water: great, very clean, perhaps narrow, but yeah, that adds to the cleanliness. Finish: long and good (bravo, S.!) Comments: that’s the problem with this kind session, it can be tiring. SGP:446 - 87 points.

Ledaig 8 yo 2005/2013 (54.5%, Whisky-Doris, bourbon hogshead, cask #800015, 149 bottles)

Colour: very white wine. Nose: very similar, of course, but this one’s rather rounder, and has fewer notes of smoky mezcal. Big soot, ashes, coal, tar, crushed sardines (paste), tarama… And a little vanilla. With water: stays a bit soapy for a long time, and then everything gets better again. Smoked vegetables, gherkins, olives and a massive sootiness. Mouth (neat): everything’s perfect in this one. Perfect brine, lemon juice, smoked fish, olives, smoked tea, more lemon juice… With water: balanced lemon, salt and kippers. What’s not to like? Finish: same for a long time. Comments: that’s right, I’ve shamelessly copied-and-pasted my notes for the Whisky-Fässle, both whiskies being almost identical. Not saying it’s the same cask of course. SGP:456 – 87 points.

Ledaig 2005/2013 (62.8%, Archives, hogshead, cask #900092, 227 bottles)

Probably rocket fuel, what do you think? Colour: white wine (so darker than the others.) Nose: smoky mercurochrome and that’s almost all. That’s the high strength. Quick… With water: diesel oil and wet dogs (we’ll have to talk, dogs.) And plenty of tar, some sides remind me of very young Port Ellens (Scottish Wildlife, Corsini et al.) New leatherette. Mouth (neat): ultra-strong and mega-simple, but absolutely brilliant. A feeling of salted and smoked lemon-flavoured marshmallows, perhaps. Covered with minced almonds, perhaps. And then barbecued. But it’s very strong… With water: water brings out oils, which comes unexpected. Basil infused in olive oil. Finish: very long, very salty, and as oily as if you had just eaten a spoonful of oil. Comments: I guess we could call this baby ‘a fat whisky’. Spectacular mouth feel. SGP:357 - 88 points.

I am sorry, I had planned to go down to the 1990s and even the 1970s, but this is too tiring, so I think I’ll give up for now. These Ledaigs are all great (no duds this time) but they’re too similar in this context. Bad line-up, bad idea. My bad.

Check the index of all Ledaig I've tasted so far