August 12, 2014

Contrasting Auchentoshan

Let’s have two newish Auchentoshans, after all this is summer, even if it’s raining cats and dogs over Alsace at time of writing.

Auchentoshan 1998/2013 ‘Lemon Zest’ (46%, Wemyss Malts, barrel, 342 bottles)

Colour: white wine. Nose: fruits, fruits and fruits. And I mean fruits. One of the fruitiest drams I could nose in recent months, and I’ve nosed quite a few fruitbombs. As they say, this is fruitier than GlenMacFruit, the winner of last year’s fruitbomb competition! But which fruits? Oranges, peaches, pineapples, pears… Just add one marshmallow and a tiny bit of bubblegum and you’ve got it. Mouth: very fruity again, simple, narrow, extremely easy. Frankly, it’s hard not to like this, even if you’re more into the deepest old Highlanders. It’s almost like wolfing down a large pack of marshmallows. Finish: same, plus just a tiny blade of grass. Comments: fruitful and youthful. In other words, one of the friendliest malt whiskies. SGP:651 - 83 points.

Auchenstoshan 17 yo 1995/2013 (53.5%, Single Cask Collection, sherry butt, 263 bottles)

Auchentoshan 17 yo 1995/2013 (53.5%, Single Cask Collection, sherry butt, 263 bottles)

Let’s see what a sherry butt can do, even if it’s probably refill sherry. Colour: deep gold. Nose: it hasn’t got these fruitful, almost feisty notes, but it’s got a little varnish, touches of vinegar and certainly some limejuice. Mind you, it’s a combo that works, and that rather hints at white wine. Also touches of chestnut honey and chocolate. Mars bar and orange liqueur? With water: gets much rounder and you could well think it’s a Speysider when trying it blind. Overripe apples, cake, malt, honey cake, gingerbread… The sharpish zestiness is gone – no problems! Mouth (neat): very good! I mean, much to my liking! It’s a fatter, bigger Auchentoshan, full of marmalade, baklavas, with even traces of peat, some salt, gravel, a grassy side… Big stuff, far from the almost-ethereal 1998. With water: now touches of earth, liquorice wood, fennel… Finish: long and malty. Comments: I like it quite a lot, even if it’s not very… Lowlands? SGP:551 - 86 points.

Check the index of all Auchentoshan I've tasted so far

Pete McPeat and Jack Washback in St Tropez