March 28, 2014

Another little bag of honest Speysiders

This and that, in no particular order. In other words, three singletons that I didn’t want to pair with some of their siblings, sometimes simply because I did not have any at hand at time of writing.

Strathmill 17 yo 1995/2012 (43%, Signatory Vintage, casks# 2663+2664, 831 bottles)

I quite like this unassuming and fairly priced series by Signatory. It represents a good opportunity to try some rare distilleries without having to sell your cat. Colour: white wine. Nose: indeed, it’s fresh nose, all on cut apples, barley and a little beer, with just touches of light honey. More complex than it sounds, especially since some very pleasant whiffs of herbs rise to your nostrils. I find a little sage and maybe tarragon. Mouth: all good, with good body, a feeling of sweet beer, some malt, apples again and then a little more pepper and, again, light honey. Good mouth feel, all is in Ordnung. Finish: rather long, now with touches of oranges on top of the pepper and honey. Comments: nothing to write home about, but it’s very honest malt whisky of good quality. Very fair and loyal, as we sometimes say. SGP:441 - 80 points.

Speyside 19 yo 1994/2013 (55.7%, Spirit of Caledonia, refill sherry hogshead, cask #478, 265 bottles)

That’s Speyside the distillery, not the region, and while some say it lies in Speyside indeed, other experts claim it’s a Highlander. I have to say I haven’t had much luck so far with Speyside distillery. Maybe things will change today. Colour: straw. Nose: it’s very aggressive at first nosing, and mega-grassy. That means we’re finding a lot of grass, obviously (bravo!), but also hay and apple peelings. Also a little raw barley and touches of ink and paper. A brand new book just from the printer, if you like. With water: it got much sweeter, now with fruit compotes and jellies, plus a large bag of marshmallows, tinned pears and apricot and more marshmallows. Mouth (neat): very powerful, with a very creamy mouth feel. I find limoncello and yet again, a lot of grass. Barley syrup. With water: that’s funny, it’s the grass that came to the front this time. Gras jelly, do you know that. Works well with foie gras. Finish: good length. Sweet barley, sweet oak. Very grassy aftertaste, with a bitterness. Comments: it’s possibly my favourite whisky from Speyside Dist. ever. SGP:551 - 83 points.

Glen Keith 21 yo 1992/2013 (49.5%, Tasting Fellows, barrel, cask #120610, 180 bottles)

Colour: pale gold. Nose: it’s a rather grassy whisky again at first nosing, with cut grass (bravo again!), broken branches, leaves, then rather more vanilla and touches of menthol. Develops more on ripe plums, apricots and a little fresh butter, with also a little sweet beer just like in the Strathmill. Goes more and more towards fruitsalady (!) notes, which isn’t uncommon with middle-aged Glen Keith. Mouth: it’s a very fruity one right from the start, with pineapple juice and a little coconut milk, then more butterscotch, caramel (Werther’s) and vanilla. Good grassy foundation, with even touches of salt. Also raisins and a little honey, then bitterer fruits such as grapefruits. This is excellent, I think. Finish: very long and much grassier. Fresh wood. Not my favourite part, but it’s all right. Comments: these 1992 Glen Keiths are almost always excellent. Pretty high standard. SGP:551 - 87 points.