A trio of Dalwhinnie

March 25, 2014

A trio of Dalwhinnie

Dalwhinnie is a lovely distillery. Last time I was there with the MMs they were doing pairings with whiskies and chocolates and that’s been quite grand. Having said that, it’s not a malt I’m very familiar with, probably because there are very little expressions around. Let’s have two new official ones today, and then maybe a litte digestif…

Dalwhinnie 15 yo (43%, OB, +/-2013)

Another one I haven’t quite followed in recent years. Mind you, the last version I’ve tried had been bottled around 1995. Mea culpa… Colour: gold. Nose: rather less polished that I remembered, starting with some farmy notes (hay, farmyard) as well as a blend of barley water and eaux-de-vie (plums). After that, a little fresh butter, caramel cream, grass, pollen and wood smoke. Also a little butterscotch and wee metallic touches (old coins). Mouth: same feeling of farminess if I may say so. Grass and hay, some candy sugar, plum eau-de-vie, chocolate, malt and ‘rough’ honey (chestnut). Its even a little wild, kind of uncommercial, whatever that means. In the background, that smokiness again (wood). Finish: quite long, a little acrid, grassy, malty, still quite farmyardy. Liquorice wood. Comments: certainly a Highlander in style, rather than a Speysider. SGP:352 - 82 points.

Dalwhinnie 1997/2013 'Distiller's Edition' (43%, OB, D. SU. 312)

This one was finished in oloroso casks. Colour: gold. Nose: the Dalwhinnie DE might well be the DE that’s the closest to the ‘regular’ version. Indeed, I find this one very similar, just a notch bigger and rounder but profiles are almost identical. This has maybe a few more raisins and an added touch of yeast and porridge. So yeah, a little more wine. Mouth: the influence of the last casks is more pronounced on the palate, with more raisins and other dried fruits such as dried bananas. Other than that, it’s also even maltier and more honeyed, more chocolaty, and rather less farmy this time. Good body. Finish: quite long, with more bitter grass and liquorice wood again. Touches of oranges. Comments: a fine dram with a second maturation that remained unobtrusive. SGP:452 - 83 points.

And now the little digestif…

Dalwhinnie 1970/1993 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, Old Map Label)

Colour: gold. Nose: light and honeyed, with summery whiffs (overripe fruits, mostly) and lovely notes of wild yellow flowers. Around dandelions. A very delicate nose that reminds me of some old and lightish moelleux wine from Loire. Which I enjoy! Mouth: again, a light, honeyed dram. Cake, biscuits, heather honey, fudge and shortbread. Very Scottish, haha. Finish: pretty short but clean and perfectly honeyed. Comments: a very elegant Dalwhinnie, easy and even a little simple, that goes down well. I think these bottles keep popping up at auctions and go for reasonable ammounts, I believe they’re worth our attention. SGP:441 - 85 points.

Check the index of all Dalwhinnie I've tasted so far