November 4, 2014

A short trip down there

It’s an Australian whisky lover who bought the remaining casks from the closed Willowbank/Milford/Lammerlaw Distillery in Dunedin, New Zealand. The world’s southernmost distillery! He’s now issuing them, which seems only sensible. I’ve already tried a ‘doublewood’ a while back, and really liked it (WF 82). Having said that, I used to hate the ‘Milford’ 12 yo ten years ago, but liked a ‘Lammerlaw’ by Cadenhead’s, so… let’s have two of the new ones, both single malts.

New Zealand Whisky 25 yo (46%, OB, Willowbank, New Zealand, bourbon barrel, 2014)

Colour: straw. Nose: a rather unusual profile, rather light, a bit dusty but not obligatorily in a bad way, with first notes of brioche, breadcrumbs and sawdust and then more tinned fruits, peaches, apricots, pears… I also find an interesting coastal smoke (barbecued scallops, perhaps?) and just wee whiffs of eucalyptus. More Irish than Scottish, despite the (light) smoke, I’d say. Or a Scottish Lowlander? Mouth: very fine, and somewhat more ‘traditional’ than on the nose. Something reminds me of Hammerhead, which shared the same kind of story (very roughly). Rather malty, with a little vanilla, sweet croissants and other pastries, then more oranges and sponge cake. Good body. There’s also a little smoke again, as well as these pineapples. Finish: not too long but pleasant, with a little toffee, oranges and a wee touch of salt. Comments: can this really be the same juice as Milford’s? Great selection work, for sure. SGP:442 - 85 points.

New Zealand Whisky 24 yo 1989/2013 (54.2%, OB, Willowbank, New Zealand, bourbon barrel, cask #57)

Colour: gold. Nose: completely different. Less balanced, a little acrid, oaky, grainy… Pass! Although water may do something to it… With water: nicer, as expected, but quite simple. Sweet barley and tinned peaches. Sugar syrup. Mouth (neat): works much better, thanks to the alcohol’s sweetness. Nice vanilla, marzipan, grated coconut, ripe mirabelle plums and jelly babies. I like it better this time. With water: a creamy fruity sweetness. Marshmallows and just drops of sweet beer. Kriek? Finish: not too long but clean, fruity, easy. Comments: less complex than the 25, sweeter… And it swims well. One day I’ll tell you a story about me in a very small plane from Edinburgh to Paris, sitting right in the middle of twenty plus All Blacks who had just smashed the Scots in Murrayfield. SGP:531 - 82 points.

While we’re down there, we could as well fly to Tasmania, with…

Lark ’20th Anniversary’ (50.5%, OB, Tasmania, Para Port quarter cask, cask #1, 500 bottles, 2012)

Colour: amber. Nose: this seems to be younger, fatter spirit, from some much more active wood, with more aromas, more spices, more dried fruits, more body… It’s akin to nosing a large jar full of fudge. With water: wood smoke, ginger cake, cinnamon cake, eucalyptus. Mouth (neat): I enjoy this, it’s sweet and spicy, with one dominating flavour: walnut wine. I know I often quote walnut wine, but here it’s been taken to the extreme. You may add a slice of pecan pie. With water: same, plenty of walnuts, and the specialties and pastries made thereof. Finish: quite long, sweet, candied, very nutty. Comments: typical and singular new world whisky of pretty high quality. As I sometimes say, I could quaff this. SGP:551 - 84 points.

And while we’re in Tasmania…

Overeem (43%, OB, Tasmania, Old Hobart Distillery, sherry cask, cask #OHD-005, +/-2012)

Colour: gold. Nose: a tad butyric at first sniffs, but develops quite beautifully, on crème brulée, warm sawdust, pomegranates, orange cake and a bit of clay. A little sweet beer yet again, a touch of fern and other dry wild herbs, then we’re back on bready aromas, which I always enjoy. Pumpernickel. The sherry’s not big – maybe a few raisins? Mouth: very bready and oaky/spicy, so a bit in the style of Lark – generally speaking – or of some genuine American craft distillers. A good sweetness balances that, with rather more raisins now, some honeydew and mead, a few drops of mulled wine (cloves, aniseed, cinnamon…) Finish: quite long, rounded and spicy. Gingerbread dipped into mulled wine? Comments: same high modern quality as the Lark IMHO, they do master ‘wood extractivity’. I’ve got a few Overeems at CS yet to taste, I’ll do that soon, I can’t wait. SGP:541 - 84 points.

Yes it’s been a great wee journey! They seem to be making whisky better and better downunda.