May 27, 2014

A pair of old Linkwood

The excellent Samaroli people are pushing the design of their new bottles to the loveliest, those are now representing exactly the opposite of what’s done over there in Scotland. Not saying Scottish bottle design is lousy, of course, it’s just a little more… Say bling? But will this Linkwood’s verbiage match its plumage? Let’s see…

Linkwood 30 yo 1983/2013 'Over the Border' (46%, Samaroli, cask #5709)

Colour: white wine. Nose: pure! It’s the kind of lovely nose you may get from an x-fill cask, provided you’ve given it enough time. The whisky’s become very complex, void of any big/bold (read dominant) aromas, on many soft fruits and many flowers and herbs. I find whiffs of old roses that I could find in other old Linkwoods in the past, a little patchouli, hay, chamomile, cider apples, fresh mint, wormwood, maybe fennel, some very soft vanilla, wee touches of old style perfume (Jean Patou-style), then more complex teas, white needles, wulongs and such. Brilliant, but it needs you attention. Mouth: as delicate as an old chenin from Loire, really. Some pineapple but not too much, some light honey, tangerines, a soft spiciness, then more herbs around chives and parsley (perhaps), not-too-ripe gooseberries and plums, lemon curd… It’s all a little more immediate than on the nose, but it remains subtle. Finish: longer than expected, and more citrusy than expected. Loses just a little stamina here. Comments: very lovely, a tad feminine, perhaps, although I’m sure women wouldn’t agree. The finish was a little less thrilling, hence a slightly lower score. SGP:541 - 89 points.

Linkwood 36 yo 1973/2010 (49.9%, The Whisky Agency, The Perfect Dram, bourbon hogshead, 228 bottles)

Colour: pale gold. Nose: it’s a bigger Linkwood, maybe a notch less complex and a tad more immediate, sexier, fruitier, more aromatic, more honeyed. We’re well in line with other fruity wonders that were distilled around 1972, especially Caperdonichs and Clynelishes, although this is lighter than Clynelish. Lovely notes of pinesap as well. I cannot see who wouldn’t fall in love with this nose. Mouth: I find very discreet touches of soap in the arrival, but after that all becomes better and better, with citrons, oranges, orange blossom water, cakes, more lemon, crystallised tangerines… and all that. An impressive freshness at 36 years of age. Finish: not very long, but rather citrusy. Marmalade. Comments: different old Linkwoods, but a very similar quality, that is to say a very high one. SGP:651 - 88 points.