Cock-and-bull trio No.8, Johnnie Walker, Glencraig, Littlemill

October 29, 2013

Cock-and-bull trio No.8, Johnnie Walker, Glencraig, Littlemill

Johnnie Walker ‘The Royal Route’ (40%, OB, Explorers’ Club Collection, blend, travel retail, 2013)

Another new Johnnie Walker that comes with a story as long as an arm. Don't you need more story when you've got no age? It's the third and the last within the 'Explorer's Club' collection. I quite liked The Gold Route (WF 79) and liked The Spice Road even better (WF 81). Colour: gold. Nose: it's quite potent and malty despite the low strength, there's especially a kind of fat fruitiness that works well (around candied peaches and melons, perhaps), as well as some peat smoke and beeswax. The feeling of hot wax mingled with fermenting hay is also welcome. Mouth: same flavours as in the nose, with some depth, some smoke, some candied fruits, some wax... and sadly, not much middle. B****y 40% vol. Finish: saltier and even a little longer than expected. Takes off again, which sometimes happen. A bitterness in the aftertaste. Comments: very high quality blend, perfectly composed. I remember a 'Director's Blend' by Johnnie Walker that had a similar profile. The only problem is the weakness on the palate, which is entirely related to the strength. Sweet whiskies can stand low strengths but in my modest experience, 'phenolic' ones need 43% or more or they can be a little, say frustrating. SGP:452 - 82 points.

Glencraig 35 yo 1976/2013 (43.7%, La Maison du Whisky, Artists #3, bourbon barrel, cask #4257, 194 bottles)

Isn't it great that there's some 'new' Glencraig? Remember it's the name of the malt made in Lomond stills at Glenburgie between 1956 and 1981. Let's see if we can find bananas like in other Glencraigs... (yeah yeah, like if I had tasted hundreds of them...) Colour: pale gold. Nose: oh, isn't this some old Midleton? There's definitely something 'old pot still', with plenty of bananas indeed, pineapples, then some 'good' sawdust and cinnamon, then more citrus (pink grapefruit) and a combination of Turkish delights and roses. Make that rose-flavoured Turkish delights if you wish. It's very delicate and, ah, erm, feminine (I'm sorry, ladies).

Mouth: old Irish indeed, both 'wide' and relatively light. Sémillon, white chocolate, grapefruits again, coconut and cornflakes in the arrival but it becomes spicier over time, maybe a notch drying. Funny metallic touches as well, very Irish indeed. A little humus. Finish: neither particularly long nor as complex as before, it tends to close up a bit, becoming slightly acrid. Grassy/gritty aftertaste. Green peppercorns. Comments: obviously a little fragile and especially the finish is a tad difficult, but other parts are absolutely wonderful. And, well, it's rare stuff! SGP:561 - 86 points.

Let's have more fruits!...

Littlemill 24 yo 1988/2013 (55.8%, The First Editions, refill hogshead, 330 bottles)

I think Andrew Laing 'baked' a pretty impressive set of new bottlings in this autumn. Ah, the Jura... Colour: pale gold. Nose: I had thought we'd have a fruity explosion, not so. It's a rather mineral and slightly papery Littlemill at first nosing, pretty austere and quite far from some recent fruitbombs. Clay, chalk and perhaps touches of grapefruit zests. Not the easiest Littlemill but water may help. With water: so unusual, so funny! Mashed potatoes, Champagne and... hold on, warm waffles? Mouth (neat): a beast! One of the sharpest malts I've tried this year, it's almost concentrated lemon juice plus grass, chalk and pepper. Spectacularly ultra-green. With water: became more typical, that is to say fruitier, with lemons and a wee slice of mango, but the papery side remains there. Finish: quite long. Tonic water, lemon, chalk, cardboard, white pepper. Grapefruits are back in the aftertaste. Comments: fun and intellectual at the same time. You really need to dissect it, so to speak. Certainly not one these easy/sexy fruity Littlemills, and using water is de rigueur. One for a whisky lover who already has everything? SGP:371 - 84 points.