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June 19, 2026 |
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WF's Little Duos,
today young Bladnoch
for the summer |
We can all agree that whether Bladnoch is really a summer malt remains open to debate, especially when it’s been seasoned in a rather assertive wine cask. Let’s see what we’ve got in the pipeline… |
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Bladnoch 8 yo ‘American oak red wine’ (46,7%, OB, The Galloway Collection, double cask, 2025) 
We can dream of a situation where these red wine-finished whiskies might kill two birds with one stone and solve the sluggish sales of both categories at once. Yeah, right... Colour: bronze amber. Nose: I sometimes say they handle red wine finishings better than they did twenty years ago, and here is the proof, even if we are drifting more towards plum preserves, or Vieille Prune, fig jam, and strawberry and apricot conserve dusted with cinnamon. What really matters, though, is that we avoid that overt red-berry profile, or... Beaujolais. Beyond that, we find speculoos and gingerbread. Mouth: fairly rich, with dried fruits and Christmas spices conjuring up thoughts of Stollen and, well, Christmas cake. I readily admit we seem to be a little out of sync with the seasons. A touch of bitter almond and Jägermeister, otherwise much the same preserves as on the nose. Finish: fairly long, with the bitters gradually taking command, rather in the style of Italian bitters, amaro, Montenegro and the like. Comments: certainly not a summer malt, very far from it indeed, but we do find it genuinely good.
SGP:651 - 85 points. |
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Bladnoch 7 yo 2018/2025 (58.8%, OB for Quaich Bar, oloroso hogshead, cask #735, 319 bottles)
A bottling released to celebrate Singapore's 60th anniversary. We have already tasted some excellent ones from this series, it must be said. Colour: amber. Nose: here we are in a very similar style, gloriously jammy, packed with dried fruits and Christmas pastry specialities, to the point where we might almost have guessed PX rather than oloroso. With water: a slight earthy edge emerges, alongside those inevitable walnut wines and walnut liqueurs. Now that's properly 'oloroso'. Mouth (neat): a full wheelbarrow of sultanas, just lightly dusted with pepper. Somewhat in the style of Dalmore's 'amoroso-ed' bottlings, with oranges quietly waiting in the wings. With water: the citrus fruits step forward, much to our delight. Oranges above all, including Seville oranges. A slender slice of cake studded with glacé cherries... our entire youth in a nutshell, isn't it. Finish: fairly long, rounded and rich, yet still lively enough, thanks to those oranges. Comments: a slight preference for this little beauty.
SGP:651 - 86 points. |
Merry Christmas! Sorry, I mean happy summer! (At least in the Northern Hemisphere, ha...) |
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June 18, 2026 |
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Due to the current heatwave, there will be no tasting session today.
We apologise, but no refunds will be given. |
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June 17, 2026 |
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WF's Little Duos, today
old bottlings of Springbank
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We obviously cannot leave this miserable blog entirely devoid of Springbank for too long. The latest expressions seem to be rather under the radar, at least to me, but thank goodness we still have a vast collection of older releases that we have yet to taste. Let’s just say that, given the choice between trying an original Testarossa and the latest electric contraption that looks like an iron designed by a short-sighted, colour-blind intern, we do not hesitate for very long… That’s right, the Luce. But even today, Springbank is no Luce, granted. At all. Love them. |
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Springbank 15 yo (46%, OB, black label, early 1990s)
It has to be said that batches of the 15-year-old have always been extraordinarily variable. Between the pure, streamlined versions and others saturated with rather unruly sherry, there were worlds. Our archives range from WF 78 to WF 91, just to give you an idea... With Springbank, colour has always mattered greatly, given that the use of caramel was invariably homeopathic, if not entirely absent. Broadly speaking, with younger bottlings such as this one, the paler batches tend to be preferable, except perhaps for the 12 100 proof versions... Well yes, it is all rather complicated, so let us forget about that. Colour: chardonnay. Already a piece of good news. Nose: fresh butter and wax, morning air, paraffin, modelling clay and wakame salad. There we are... Mouth: limestone, white pepper, focaccia, chalk and green apple, plus a small oyster. Hints of mineral sulphur too, not to be confused with the sulphur of wine casks, imparted by matches and candles. Finish: fairly long, becoming saltier, more nervous, fermentary and mineral, with slightly under-ripe apples followed by green pepper. Comments: we have made this a quick one, but frankly it is very good indeed, even if it may not quite be Broadway class. Broadway in Campbeltown?
SGP:462 - 87 points. |
Now on to the legendary vintages… |
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Springbank 1966/1987 (59.9%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #27.5) 
Just imagine, only the fifth Springbank ever released by the SMWS. Needless to say, this is not the sort of bottle one finds under a horse’s hoof, as we say... Colour: gold. Nose: absolutely loaded with metal polish, shoe polish and even tractor engine oil (tractor engine oil?) before moving on to barley porridge, farmhouse cider and a great loaf of freshly baked bread. Unlike most official 1966s, including the celebrated Local Barleys, this is not a Springbank shaped by sherry, quite the opposite in fact. That makes it rather moving, truth be told... With water: the magic of Springbank unfolds without the slightest hesitation. Chalk, lemon, fermenting notes, various waxes, carbolineum, petrichor... Mouth (neat): astonishing freshness, as though it had been distilled the day before yesterday and bottled this morning (I know, watch bottle shock). Magnificent chalk, ale, this morning’s butter croissant (excuse my Frenchness), bitters, artichoke, aubergine, waxes and, above all, lemons, which always seem remarkably at home in Campbeltown. And naturally, all those peppers... With water: simply superb. Finish: incredibly lively, razor-sharp, lemony and possessed of absolute class. Comments: here you are practically standing alongside the distillery workers in the still house, listening to Time is on my Side or Keep on Running on the radio while paying attention to the new make. Not much maturation influence perhaps, but a truly seminal distillate, bolstered by a magnificent texture into the bargain.
SGP:463 - 94 points. |
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June 16, 2026 |
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WF's Little Duos,
Pointless tastings:
two official Glenfarclas |
“Pointless” in the sense that here are two Glenfarclas that are old in every respect, and whose bottles have become both difficult and expensive to track down. In short, you could call this a selfish tasting, and you’d be absolutely right… |
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Glenfarclas 46 yo 1954/2000 (43%, OB, 1193 bottles)
You will note that we find a certain charm in bottling strengths of 43% for bottles and vintages this old, after all it was more or less the norm for a very long time. Colour: deep gold. Nose: but my word, this is beautiful, by thunder! Dried figs are reigning supreme, accompanied by a little meadow honey and very slight chalky touches. It is not tremendously complex, but here that is precisely what gives the whole its charm, it remains compact, immediate, obvious, even when scents of honeysuckle begin to creep in. What beauty, it brings back memories of the 21 year olds, the likes of the ‘Giaccones’… Mouth: oh my, this is far more complex on the palate than it was on the nose, we have a veritable maelstrom of camphory, resinous, honeyed things, with dried fruits of every description, but also little candied citrus fruits that keep the whole more or less in the stratosphere. Very impressive indeed. Finish: almost long, in any case on similar notes, before moving onto earthier territories and, should I add, a hint of smoke as was common in post-war Speysiders. A few peppers of utterly mad elegance in the aftertaste. Comments: at 100 proof, this would be nudging 95. Easily.
SGP:562 - 93 points. |
You’ll notice that, out of modesty, we’re keeping these tasting notes to a very reasonable length. |
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Glenfarclas 50 yo 1963/2013 (43%, OB, sherry, cask #174, 136 bottles)
Mind you, it seems that this baby was released exclusively for Hong Kong and Macau. I should add that the Family Cask 1963/2007 #4098 was superb (WF 92), so we really have very high hopes here. Indeed, despite the 43% vol. Colour: Milanese espresso. In other words, ristretto. Nose: I feared it might collapse a little after the 1954, but nothing of the sort, it is simply very different, much more marked by the sherry, the oloroso, walnut liqueur, yet always with great elegance, almost a slight charming lightness inherent to these Glenfarclas vintages. Then strawberry soup with mint and very old Grande Champagne cognac, plus a handful of fatter, juicy Corinth raisins. Mouth: my goodness! It is almost aggressive at first, in the style of some current gloomy cretins world leaders but with much more class and distinctiveness, yet that would only last a split second, then it starts firing out roasted chestnuts in abundance, liquorice lozenges, fir and chestnut honey, very old Catalan rancios, and even a few drops of Jägermeister, Unicum or Underberg that scrape your throat a little with determination yet elegance. Cheers Lars. Finish: long, more resinous, moving squarely onto fir resin, chocolate and very dark tobacco. Comments: mag-ni-fi-cent. They were lucky in Hong Kong and Macau some dozen years ago… And it seems they still are.
SGP:561 - 93 points. |
(Thank you mucho, Ian and Ryan) |
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June 15, 2026 |
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WF's Little Duos,
today Dalmore OB vs IB
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A bit like its colleague whose name begins with “Mac” and ends with “allan”, and which we’re still very fond of, not only for its contributions to the cause from the 1960s through to the 1990s, Dalmore seems to me to have been rather less under the whisky chatterati’s radar in recent years. It must be said that the brand’s development owes a great deal to its dashing Master Blender and Ambassador, the only figure in the whisky world, it seems to me, ever to have dared to coordinate his ties with his pocket squares. Not to mention, of course, pouring forty-year-old single malt onto the carpet. Anyway, there’s a fairly recent 17-year-old release, so we might as well take the opportunity to make a little head-to-head comparison… |
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Dalmore 17 yo (42%, OB, +/-2025)
Twelve years in bourbon wood, then the remainder in a selection of amoroso (cream), Apostoles (palo cortado) and Matusalem (oloroso) sherries from their partner González Byass. In parallel rather than successively, unless I'm mistaken. The only slightly curious thing is the 42%, although you'll tell me that's still better than 40%. Colour: amber. Nose: this is naturally shaped by the sherry, particularly the cream, soft, sweet and indeed rather creamy. In short, it's packed with raisins and dates, while walnut cake and tobacco are not far behind. The fresh oranges so typical of Dalmore have yet to appear, however. No doubt they'll turn up on the palate... Mouth: indeed, they do, with bitter oranges and blood oranges alike, which leaves us thoroughly delighted. Chocolate and, above all, gianduja follow, then a walnut and honey tart (an absolute killer), before some slightly singed raisins bring up the rear. There's a rather pleasing liveliness running through it all, and it never becomes remotely schmalzy, if you see what I mean. Finish: not especially short and, above all, spicier now, with peppered dark chocolate and espresso, both of which finally dispatch any lingering excess sweetness that may still have been lurking in the shadows. Aftertaste: chiefly sherry. Comments: a very handsome bottle, thoroughly Dalmorian in style and one that gives us genuine pleasure. Blast it, we forgot to mention the Jaffa cakes.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
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Dalmore 11 yo 2012/2023 (55.6%, Hart Bros., first filled Burgundy)
There had already been an earlier 11-year-old from Hart Bros. at 55.6%, although that one had been finished in sherry wood. This time it's Burgundy, and you'll note that they don't seem inclined to reveal whether it was white or red, although in any case the colour is neither pink nor even ‘thigh of a startled nymph’. Indeed, that is an actual colour, chiefly employed by court painters during the 18th century. Colour: gold. Nose: a small touch of bell pepper and blackcurrant at first, which would seem to suggest red Burgundy, although the colour is remarkably restrained for a first-fill red wine cask. It then develops towards green pepper, thyme honey, bread dough and, quite simply, allspice. With water: plenty of caraway and cumin, along with a little bitter orange, which might lead us towards kirsch, which might lead us towards cherries, which might in turn lead us towards red Burgundy indeed. Well then, I freely admit that's rather shaky detective work. Mouth (neat): very spicy, but also loaded with bitter oranges, which knit the cask and the distillate together rather neatly. Overall, the bitterness is fairly pronounced. With water: we retreat back towards the distillate, much to our delight. Orange peel and bitter chocolate, with even a little lemon. Finish: long, brighter and more focused on citrus skins. A touch of greenness in the aftertaste, apple peelings and suchlike. Comments: I was a little worried at one point, but in the end, everything landed exactly where it ought to have done.
SGP:461 - 85 points. |
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June 14, 2026 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
Fifteen jonge and oude jenever from the Netherlands
Buckle up. I've been meaning for ages to post a few genevers, particularly some jonge genevers, that I've accumulated over the years. I never kept track of when they joined the queue, so I won't be able to tell you how old they are, but in any case, please don't take any of this too seriously. It's all a bit of fun, and I don't know the first thing about the subject. The same goes for the mezcals, Calvados, and the countless fruit brandies we've built up over time. One of these days... |
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What’s more, unlike gin, which is generally a neutral spirit flavoured with juniper berries, jenever/genever is supposed to be made from a cereal distillate known as moutwijn ("malt wine"), to which juniper and perhaps other botanicals are added. Right then, we'll pick our genevers at random. In France these drinks are very much a niche curiosity, which I think is a shame. Apart from in the north of the country, although I don't even think we have any French examples on hand. We'll see about that... |
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Hartevelt Prima (35%, OB, Jonge Jenever, the Netherlands) 
There are only 35% vol. here, but on the other hand, I see the price is €15 for a litre. Colour: white. Nose: not a great deal happening, but then again, that is not a bad thing. We find juniper and touches of coriander seed, apparently, alongside a faintly earthy edge. Frankly, I rather like it, although please do not bring me a bottle for my birthday. Mouth: light, slightly sweet, a touch medicinal, and rather salty too. Notes of celery and turnip. Finish: not quite as short as one might expect, remaining pleasantly saline. Comments: let us say this will serve as our benchmark, at 75 points. I suspect people generally drink this over ice, but let us not start questioning our procedures, if you please.
SGP:442 - 75 points. |
Hooghoudt Dubbele Graan Jenever (35%, OB, Jonge Jenever, The Netherland)
Do not tell me that 35% is the usual bottling strength for jenever? I would never have embarked upon this session. Right, let us speed things up... €21 for a litre here. I do not understand Flemish, but I imagine there is a double measure of grain involved somewhere. Colour: white. Nose: rather similar to the previous one, although a little less expressive on the nose, more neutral in fact. Mouth: well, yes, it is fairly spirity. I found the Hartevelt better, with a little more personality and charm. Finish: the salty side, along with notes of salsify, comes through a little more clearly. Comments: it still seems perfectly decent, all things considered, although ice cubes feel almost mandatory.
SGP:332 - 70 points. |
Henkes (35%, OB, Jonge Jenever, The Netherlands)
Colour: white. Nose: we are much closer to a British gin here, complete with those slightly soapy touches and a juniper profile that is rather clean and precise. Gone are the root vegetable notes that featured in the previous examples. Mouth: yes, gin. And not a bad gin at that. Clean, straightforward, juniper-led, with coriander seed quietly chiming in behind the scenes. Finish: fairly short, with those soapy notes still present, alongside a little lemon zest and more coriander seed. Comments: this pure and harmless character may well be regarded as a virtue.
SGP:441 - 75 points. |
Ketel1 (35%, OB, Graanjenever, The Netherlands)
This one is entirely grain-based. Colour: white. Nose: back to the rather neutral style of the Hooghoudt, although I do find some rather pleasant notes of fresh hazelnuts. Then again, fresh hazelnuts are not exactly the most demonstrative aroma on earth, are they. Mouth: a little more flavour this time, rather in the style of the Henkes, with that gentle salinity and a distinctly ‘gin-like’ character. Clean, uncomplicated, and perfectly drinkable. Finish: much the same, although the whole affair becomes a little more rooty towards the end. Comments: tasting a succession of 35% spirits is not entirely straightforward when one is accustomed to bottlings at 45-50%. Still, we shall get used to it.
SGP:432 - 73 points. |
In any case, it's easy to see why some people describe jenever as the ancestor of gin, or even claim that English gin was copied from Dutch jenever. Mind you, that's not quite what our English friends tend to say, but we're not going to get drawn into that debate; instead, we'll carry on with our adventure... |
Bokma (35%, OB, Jonge Graanjenever Rond, The Netherlands) 
I imagine that ‘rond’ does not actually mean round. We have three cereals involved here, ‘rogge, tarwe, mais’, so rye, wheat and maize. Colour: white. Nose: soft and rather gentle, with very little juniper to speak of. Indeed, it comes across more like a Scottish grain new make than any traditional jenever. Mouth: still rather neutral. Not much happening, beyond a faint cereal sweetness and a generally unobtrusive profile. Finish: still rather neutral. Comments: and, let us be honest, rather tedious. That said, apart from that, one could hardly accuse it of having any faults. Every cloud has a silver lining, after all.
SGP:230 - 65 points. |
Goblet (35%, OB, Jonge Graanjenever, The Netherlands) 
We remain in the vicinity of €20 per litre. Per litre! Colour: white. Nose: well now, a little action at last. Shampoo and capers! I promise you... Mouth: I rather like this combination of olives and capers. It is unusual, and at least there is some personality on display. What a pity about those 35% vol. Finish: not quite as short as expected, saline and faintly vinegary. The olives and capers remain firmly in place. Comments: we can easily imagine drinking this at 5°C alongside smoked salmon. In short, this is our favourite so far.
SGP:242 - 77 points. |
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Boomsma (35%, OB, Jonge Graanenever, The Netherlands)
The bottle is rather attractive, looking for all the world like mineral water (watch the kids!!!) Colour: white. Nose: back to the shampoo, and plenty of it. More and more shampoo, in fact. A few drops of limoncello as well, although one often finds shampoo-like notes in limoncello too, whatever our dear Italian friends may have to say on the matter. Mouth: seriously, this is white limoncello. Bright, lemony and slightly cosmetic, yet oddly appealing in its own way. Finish: much the same. The lemony notes linger, accompanied by that unmistakable shampoo-like character. Comments: rather good, provided you happen to enjoy limoncello.
SGP:531 - 76 points. |
Floryn (35%, OB, Jonge Jenever, The Netherlands) 
The label looks vaguely Hungarian, does it not? (Is that really all you have to say, S.?) Colour: white. Nose: white. I mean, virtually nothing is happening here. Let us say it resembles the Boomsma, only with ten times less amplitude. How on earth did we end up getting ourselves into this predicament? Mouth: a little more presence on the palate, although it is somewhat too spirity and lacks any real sense of dimension. Finish: much the same. Comments: not bad, but really not much to get excited about.
SGP:331 - 69 points. |
Bokma (35%, OB, Jonge Graanjenever Vierkant, The Netherlands)
These 35% vol. bottlings really are a curse! I am not entirely sure what ‘vierkant’ means. Google tells me it means ‘square’, and apart from the shape of the bottle, I struggle to see what else it could be referring to. Colour: white. Nose: back to a very ‘gin-like’ profile, with juniper and soap taking centre stage. Not much in the way of additional aromatics. Mouth: apart from those salty and earthy notes, very little happens. Rather plain and somewhat hollow. Finish: rather underwhelming. Comments: it does seem a little sweeter than the other Bokma we tasted earlier. Not offensive in the slightest, merely rather uneventful.
SGP:430 - 66 points. |
We're paddling hard here... I can already hear my excellent Dutch friends telling me that I didn't pick the right ones, and guess what? They'll be absolutely right. I can already see a Jonge Jenever #2 session appearing on the horizon... |
Rutte & Zn (35%, OB, Oude Simon Graanjenever, The Netherlands)
Is this Rutte as in Mark Rutte, the former Prime Minister and current head of NATO? Mind you, this is ‘oude’ rather than ‘jonge’, so it is supposed to represent the superior category. Colour: white. Nose: ah, now we are talking. This is in a completely different league, far more complex and markedly more fermentary, with fresh bread and tomato leaves alongside the juniper. Very attractive, and highly distinctive at that. Mouth: indeed, excellent. Spicy, soapy but in the right way, packed with root vegetables, rutabaga, and also reminding us of the Jerusalem artichoke eaux-de-vie they make in the Black Forest. There is texture here, and genuine character. Finish: long, very unusual, herbaceous, waxy and saline, lingering beautifully on roots, herbs and gentle spice. Comments: we have finally reached the territory of the great mezcals and white rums. I knew we would get there eventually. Bravo, gentlemen of Rutte & Zn.
SGP:463 - 85 points. |
Phew! But we're not out of the woods yet... |
Hoppe (35%, OB, Jonge Jenever, The Netherlands)
‘Hoppe’ does look rather like ‘hope’, does it not? Colour: white. Nose: this session is collapsing like a soufflé, there is virtually nothing left here just neutral alcohol. Then again, this is very much the death seat after the Rutte & Zn. Mouth: better on the palate, with more rooty and lemony notes emerging. There is at least some character to be found once it reaches the tongue. Finish: well... rather modest. That faint salinity returns once again. Comments: the palate is perfectly acceptable, but the nose is virtually non-existent. I cannot say I find this particularly good.
SGP:241 - 68 points. |
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Verhoeven (35%, Jonge Graanjenever, The Netherlands) 
€15 per litre, things just keep getting better. Colour: white. Nose: nichts, nada, niente, rien, nothing. Mouth: slightly sweet, but apart from that, nothing much at all. Rather in the style of a vodka intended for rubbing, rheumatism, colds, or perhaps paint stripping, had it been offered at a higher strength. A faint note of artificial coconut emerges after a while. Finish: as short as the vocabulary of you-know-who. Comments: this is where we reach the bottom of the barrel. Still, there must be a bottom if we are ever to bounce back... (come on, S.)
SGP:310 - 35 points. |
Mind you, we've still got some oude genevers to come. Will they be in the style of the excellent Rutte & ZN?... |
Bokma ‘Oude Friesche Genever’ (38%, OB, Graanjenever, The Netherlands) 
A chance at redemption for the House of Bokma. You will have noticed the stratospheric strength of 38% vol. Mind you, at €23 per litre, we are clearly in premium territory! Colour: white. Nose: well, this works. Paraffin, that familiar Jerusalem artichoke eau-de-vie, perhaps even a little celery spirit, alongside a faint suggestion of hard-boiled eggs, aubergines and artichokes. In short, we are rather enjoying this so far. Mouth: indeed, this is very good. Salty and sweet in the manner of a Chinese dish, with honey-glazed gratins of parsnips and salsify. Highly original and intriguingly offbeat, exactly the sort of thing we enjoy. Finish: not as short as expected, still carrying a little sweetness, but thoroughly pleasant. Honeyed aubergines, perhaps? Comments: the score may be slightly inflated by contrast effects, but we genuinely find this Bokma very good indeed.
SGP:552 - 80 points. |
Come on, keep going, just one last unaged one... |
Blankenheym & Nolet (38%, OB, Oude Jenever, The Netherlands)
Only €23 per litre on Dramazon! The label really is rather charming, though... Colour: white. Nose: a thousand times more expressive than most of the others, but this is absolutely gin. Very much in the style of Bombay Sapphire, with soap, juniper, citrus zests and coriander. All that is missing is the Schweppes or the Martini Bianco. Or perhaps Campari and Martini Rosso. Or Noilly Prat and olives. In short, you get the picture... Mouth: this is gin, no question about it, although rather sweeter than your usual example. That sweetness is a little bothersome for me, let us be honest. Finish: long, but distinctly liqueur-like. Very sweet. Comments: a pity they sweetened it quite so much, because the aromatic base is really rather lovely. In some respects, it even brings Diplomatico to mind.
SGP:751 - 69 points. |
Right, before we choke on the stuff, let's wrap this up with a baby that should, and I do mean should, be in an entirely different league... |
Zuidam Oude Genever 12 yo 2011/2023 (38%, OB, The Netherlands, oloroso sherry, 636 bottles)
We adore Zuidam/Millstone, we truly do, but I should very much like to know why they bottle their wonderful whiskies at, let us say, an average of 55% vol., while this genever emerges at 38% vol. They must have some special Dutch law dating back to the Middle Ages that prevents them from bottling genever above 38% vol. I can think of no other explanation. Colour: red amber. Nose: the sherry seems to marry even better with genever than it does with malt whisky or rye. The whole thing must date back to the days of Charles V. Gingerbread, dried figs, mild curry, pink peppercorns, Corinth raisins, prunes and pipe tobacco. A magnificent nose, and we can only hope the palate will not prove too soft and yielding... Mouth: love and hate. I adore the profile, yet I hate the way it threatens to collapse, and the strength is entirely to blame. It recalls certain brandies from Jerez, blessed with sublime noses and perfectly respectable arrivals on the palate, only to crash moments later like a drunken jellyfish washing up on a deserted beach. You see what I mean. And yet the blood orange marmalade, deliciously moist gingerbread and peppered honey are absolutely perfect. Finish: short, alas. Coffee liqueur. Comments: I do not quite know what to do here. I do not think I shall even attempt to assign a score. Love and hate (but love always wins in the end, does it not?).
SGP:720 - ** points. |
I should emphasise that none of this is meant to be taken too seriously. The main problem is that I approached these little babies with expectations appropriate to genuine spirits, whereas these genevers arguably belong more in the realm of a cordial. |
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June 12, 2026 |
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The Time Warp Sessions,
today independent Balblair
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The fruitiest malt in the north of Scotland, without a doubt. Today, we’ll be tasting a 2008 and a 1990 vintage, does that suit you? |
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Balblair 17 yo 2008/2026 (53%, Maltbarn, bourbon cask, 86 bottles) 
Over time, what we seek in Balblair, apart from the heavily sherried versions, is pure fruitiness, sharply defined and free of embellishment. Easy enough to say, but we know it is not necessarily quite so easy to produce. Colour: very pale white wine. This is starting well. Nose: yes, this is exactly it, mandarins and bananas, with tiny touches of chervil and flat-leaf parsley, even a little watercress, and finally a small nod northwards, towards Clynelish, with a delicate note of beeswax. So far, we like it a great deal. With water: it folds back onto the citrus fruits, oranges and clementines, and all of this is perfect and eminently Balblairian. Between us, we would say it resembles an OB from some fifteen years ago. Mouth (neat): perfectly a copy of the nose, banana, citrus fruits, little herbs, a touch of sorrel, very light waxiness. It is as cheerful as a tomcat that has managed to open a packet of kibble all by itself. With water: once again the citrus fruits take command, this time joined by touches of guava and papaya. You could mix this with good rum, and you would instantly have a lovely variation on a daiquiri. A somewhat potent variation, I grant you. Finish: good length, on citrus fruits and lemon balm, along with honeyed touches that round out the signature. Comments: this is not a broad-shouldered whisky, but it is a very precise Balblair, exactly what we had been looking for. Excellent.
SGP:641 - 88 points. |
Now then, this one could keep us talking for quite a while… |
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Balblair 21 yo 1990/2011 (57.9%, The Gillies Club Australia, 34th bottling, cask #169, 300/582 bottles)
A bottling organised by the Scottish Liqueur Centre. Let me remind you that the Gillies Club brought together some of the keenest whisky enthusiasts in Australia and around the world, and that most of the bottlings they selected for their club have become downright legendary. This one is more recent than most of them, but that means… absolutely nothing. Oh, and I am very fond of this statement in large letters on the labels: “NOT FOR RESALE”. A breath of fresh air in this world of brutes… Colour: gold. Nose: the exact counterpart to the Maltbarn, this one being much more evolved, with vegetables and metallic notes, turnip, salsify, sourdough, yeasts, wort, very old white wine… It will need water to bring a little order to proceedings. With water: lightly spicy tomato sauce, rather Tuscan in style. How amusing, though we do remember that tomato is a fruit. Sulphury traces. Mouth (neat): it is almost the opposite of the nose at first, with pink grapefruit and very light notes of sour cherry, but then it heads back towards the vegetables, cooked courgette, beer… The fact remains that the grapefruit nevertheless keeps everything in balance. With water: a triumphant return of the citrus fruits, bringing a little order, though the vegetables remain lurking in the background. It rather recalls those orange sauces served with poultry. Finish: good length, with no major change. Old sweet wine and mead thereafter, followed by bitter orange and ‘mineral’ pepper right at the end, to the point where one even finds a little peat. But that is impossible, is it not? Comments: this is absolutely not a classic Balblair, it is less defined, undoubtedly more chaotic (forgive my frankness) but in the end that is part of its charm. It nevertheless remains, in my view, a bit overshadowed by the purity of the Maltbarn.
SGP:561 - 86 points. |
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June 11, 2026 |
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A few blends picked at random (a major failure)
It’s true that over the past few weeks we’ve tasted a great many outright stars, plenty of 90+ scorers, whether mature bottlings or outstanding new expressions from distillers who seem, at the moment, to be bringing out their crown jewels. For enthusiasts like us, it’s a blessed period, even if it isn’t necessarily one for the business itself. Anyway, today we’ll try to drag the average score down a little on this humble little blog. It takes all sorts to make a world…
(We knew that yellow would eventually come back into fashion...) |
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Johnnie Walker ‘Blonde’ (40%, OB, blended Scotch, +/-2026)
We simply cannot help thinking of Jackson’s Row here, that all-white Glenkinchie, the counterpart to Loch Dhu 10 yo. This blonde rendition of Johnnie W. is billed as ‘a whisky for summer’, and the label further promises it to be ‘Bright – Fruity – Smooth’. Let us just say that expectations were not exactly soaring. Colour: gold. Nose: tinned apple compote liberally drenched in vanilla-ed cane syrup, alongside a faintly floral touch of geranium, some fig leaf, and rather a lot of hay. To be fair, it is neither dreadful nor excessively ‘smooth’. Mouth: things become rather more challenging on the palate, with a distinctly herbal profile, still packed with hay, vanilla, cardboard, desiccated coconut, sawdust, and a slightly spirity edge. We do not believe this was intended to be consumed neat as we are doing here. Finish: short, echoing many of the same notes before drifting back towards apple compote, with a little cinnamon and, once again, plenty of vanilla. Comments: as they say, it could have been much worse.
SGP:440 - 68 points. |
We’ll see if we can put matters right… |
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Dewar's 8 yo 'Caribbean Smooth' (40%, OB, blended scotch, +/-2025)
As you may already have guessed, this one has enjoyed a rum finish. The French Cask Smooth matured in Calvados had been rather charming (WF 83), while the Portuguese Smooth finished in Port proved a little more difficult, though still perfectly respectable (WF 78). Personal opinions, of course. Colour: pale gold. Nose: we are once again finding apple compote with cinnamon, touches of sugar cane indeed, along with barley, honey, rock candy and figs. I find this very well put together, certainly well above the level of most traditional blends, at least on the nose. Mouth: a little sweet, certainly, but it works rather well, taking us into a world of apple juice softened with honey and white nougat. Finish: medium in length, a touch sweet perhaps, yet thoroughly pleasant. A more malty aftertaste emerges in the end. Comments: pleasant stuff.
SGP:640 - 79 points. |
Come on then, let’s have an older blend… |
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Grant’s Stand Fast (no ABV, OB, blended Scotch, twist cap, +/-1965)
Interestingly, this version states that the distilleries involved were Glenfiddich and Balvenie-Glenlivet, without any further clarification. One might be tempted to conclude that this is in fact a blended malt. Then again, brand owners also had a habit of mentioning the distilleries they owned, which did not necessarily imply that these formed the actual composition of the whisky itself. Colour: gold. Nose: light touches of damp cardboard and mushrooms at first, both rather classic features in an old whisky, followed by equally familiar metallic notes, before the malt begins to emerge more clearly, along with oatcakes, cereal mash, maple syrup and praline. It keeps becoming cleaner and better defined with every passing moment. Mouth: this is remarkably malty, and remarkably good on the palate, with honey-glazed ham, walnut cake, dry sherry, gentle marmalade, cinnamon rolls and raisin bread. One would really need to compare it with a Glenfiddich from the same era. Finish: fairly long, with lovely smoky spices, rather in the style that has become fashionable in smart restaurants these days. Comments: a highly impressive old blend, the malt content must have been very high indeed, if not integral, so to speak.
SGP:562 - 88 points. |
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Ainslie’s King’s Legend ‘Old Special’ (40%, OB, blended Scotch, M. Di Chiano, long twist cap, +/-1970)
This is, of course, one of the old Clynelish blends. Worth noting is the bottling strength of 40%, somewhat unusual for Italy, where 43% tended to be the norm. We have mostly tasted older versions of King’s Legend, magnificent whiskies that were generally superior to the various ‘Royal Edinburgh’ bottlings. Colour: gold. Nose: the spirit is very much in the same vein as the Stand Fast, except that this one is markedly more mineral, more phenolic, smokier, more maritime and distinctly saltier on the nose. In short, more Old Clynelish. I shall not elaborate any further. Mouth: this is Old Clynelish through and through, with a few grainy touches that could scarcely have done it any harm. Astonishing notes of old fino, oysters, damp cement and lemons. Finish: magnificent salty peat. Comments: you will have noticed that we have remained rather brief and relatively discreet.
SGP:453 - 90 points. |
Let’s face it, we got sidetracked, the original plan was simply to taste a few contemporary blends. |
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Blended Scotch 12 yo (53%, Decadent Drams, refill sherry hogshead, 295 bottles, 2025)
Charlie and Angus on the label, this is a bottle that could scarcely be more convivial. Colour: amber. Nose: there seems to be about as much grain here as there is on a pebble, even though there probably is some lurking in the background (little hints of coconut praline). Otherwise, we find sake, camphor, chen-pi, shoe polish and walnuts. With water: crushed slate, camphor and salmiak emerging to the fore. Mouth (neat): peppery and very much focused on green walnuts, rather in the style of certain indie ‘blends’ from Edrington that appeared to be heavily driven by HP. With water: even better. Marmalade and camphor in splendid harmony. Finish: long, impeccable, saline, smoky, earthy, rooty and altogether most satisfying. Comments: how is it even possible that we should be finding part of the profile of that old Ainslie’s within this youthful blend, which is perhaps not quite as decadent as its name would suggest?
SGP:562 - 90 points. |
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Coachbuilt 18 yo (48%, blended Scotch, 3,000 bottles, 2024)
Jenson Button and Williams Racing are involved in this series, but do remember, never drink and drive (or ride, for that matter). That said, I do have a bottle of Ballantine’s signed by David Coulthard, which shall one day be tasted here... Colour: white wine. Nose: it is absolutely terrifying how the brain works, because I am indeed finding notes of tyres, tarmac and leather. Are they really there? I rather think they are. Beyond that, there are ripe apples, quince and toasted sesame seeds. A few hints of new plastic as well, I was about to add ‘naturally’. Mouth: even smokier now, and unmistakably salty. Beyond that, it is indeed tarry, and it becomes increasingly obvious that they were trying to evoke the world of motor racing through the aromas themselves. I believe they have succeeded. Finish: let us avoid any cheap metaphors or motoring analogies here, shall we? Comments: honestly, this is very good, very successful, and remarkably evocative of a motor race. Really.
SGP:564 - 85 points. |
This tasting session is really going off the rails. That’s blends for you… |
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Soho Selection 30 yo 1994/2025 ‘VAT #3’ (49.5%, Milroy’s, peated cask, blended Scotch)
According to the back label, this is composed of North British, which at thirty years of age is almost certainly maize-based, together with Tormore. The remaining question is where the peat comes from. Was it the cask or vat used for the final marrying? Colour: gold. Nose: forgive my French, but ‘merdre alors’ as Père Ubu would have said, this is rather lovely! Smouldering earth, pears and apples, walnuts, bitter almonds, a few floral touches of pansies and borage... It is genuinely intriguing, truth be told. A few drops of diesel oil as well. Mouth: but where on earth are these mangoes and guavas coming from? The touches of smoked pepper, magnificent by the way, are easier to account for. The oysters, perhaps rather less so... Finish: long, fresh and highly elegant, becoming peatier, more lemony, and almost Laphroaig-like in character. Comments: a genuine treasure hunt of a whisky, and tremendous fun at that. We should very much like the solution now.
SGP:553 - 90 points. |
We’re much too high up the scale for a blends tasting, though naturally we’ve only ourselves to blame. Come on then, let’s fit in one final dram… |
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Blended Scotch 26 yo ‘Kung Hei Fat Choy’ (45%, Lucky Choice & Friends, sherry butt, cask #6962024, +/-2025)
There is a mention of 1851 somewhere on the label, which leads us to Robertson & Baxter, which in turn leads us to Edrington. The remaining challenge is to determine just how much Highland Park may be lurking within the mix. Colour: full gold. Nose: beeswax meets walnuts and shoe polish, followed by tobacco and oloroso, perhaps even amontillado. It all seems almost straightforward, yet once again simplicity proves to be an immense virtue here. Mouth: a few sultanas, quite a lot of fig jam and heather honey. In fact, it is considerably softer and rounder than the nose had suggested. Then again, we have always been great admirers of fig jam. Little by little, peaty and peppery elements begin to insinuate themselves into the picture. Where are they coming from? Particularly peaty batches of HP, perhaps? Finish: very handsome, with green pepper, raisins, figs and coriander seeds. Comments: it remains rather mysterious all the same, and one does not quite get the impression that it was composed entirely from Edrington-owned distilleries.
SGP:653 - 90 points. |
That’s enough, this has been a complete, joyful disaster. We’re scoring far too high. To be fair, though, many of these blends scarcely qualify as blends at all. We’ll have to revisit the exercise properly in the near future, with a more disciplined approach. Real blends this time, with generous proportions of vodka grain whisky, and not exclusively bottlings from the 1960s, either. |
(With thanks to KC and Wouter) |
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June 10, 2026 |
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The Time Warp Sessions,
today Glenlochy 29 vs 43 yo
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Glenlochy is another of those distilleries whose closure, nearly forty-five years later, is increasingly bitterly lamented by whisky enthusiasts, given the quality of the last remaining bottlings that can still be found and enjoyed here and there. Let us remember that the distillery was part of the wave of closures in 1983 and was subsequently largely demolished during the 1990s. Yet, alongside Ben Nevis, it was one of the stars of Fort William. Only fruitier… |
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Glenlochy 29 yo 1970/2000 (57.2%, Signatory Vintage ‘Silent Stills’, cask #3359, 248 bottles)
Ah, what an admirable series this was from Signatory and, unlike the little fragments of old wood slipped into certain Blackadder bottles, this one came with a charming miniature bung decorated in the distillery’s colours (and a miniature bottle too). Colour: chardonnay. Nose: Angus had already detected a certain Clynelishness in this one, and I quite agree, although I might even add a touch of Bennevissness, with leather, tobacco, black pepper, peaches in syrup, melted candle wax, a few dandelions... It all evokes the countryside in the most elegant fashion, rather in the style of Country Life. Right. With water: fresh mint now emerges, alongside hints of liquorice wood and wafts of paraffin. Mouth (neat): powerful, and above all remarkably fruity on the palate. Imagine a vast bowl of fruit salad in syrup, liberally sprinkled with freshly ground black pepper and served alongside a few lit church candles. Or something along those lines. With water: as so often, the citrus fruits step forward, particularly lemons and grapefruits, generously dusted with black pepper. As is often the case, pepper works wonders with fruit, as strawberry lovers have long known. Finish: long, becoming increasingly Bennevissian with time, recalling the 1996s, albeit in a less exotic register. Comments: a magnificent bottle, deeply old-school yet simultaneously possessed of a certain modernity. In other words, not remotely ‘retro’. P=2 neatly captures that old-school/BN character.
SGP:562 - 91 points. |
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Glenlochy 43 yo 1979 (53.6%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice Heritage Collection, refill American hogshead, 2023-2026)
This one belongs to that splendid series of old-style CC replicas, several of which have already delighted us over recent weeks. Think Dallas Dhu and Talisker! Colour: full gold. Nose: this is markedly different, with a stronger emphasis on varnishes, wood glue and fine furniture polish, indeed beeswax and propolis are never far away. The fruits, more along the lines of apricots, apples and little green fruits, are less exuberant than in the 1970, yet after a few minutes eucalyptus joins the dance, bringing a different kind of balance, every bit as flawless. With water: there we are, the peaches come charging in at full speed! Mouth (neat): a striking combination of peppers and mentholated, camphory notes at first, followed by magnificent orange zests. The wax returns as well, confirming that Glenlochy really was something of a cousin to Clynelish in certain respects. More Old Clynelish/Brora than modern Clynelish, perhaps, only without the peat. With water: the peaches make a notable comeback, accompanied by mandarins and citron. A subtle mineral and fermentary side also emerges, rather reminiscent of a great white wine very much in tune with contemporary tastes. Which is quite ironic for a distillery that has been closed for so long, would you not agree? Finish: long, almost oily, certainly very textured and, once again, waxy and mineral, recalling graphite oil. Something akin to a fine penetrating lubricant. The citron returns in the closing moments. Comments: if it is meant to loosen things up, it certainly does the job! A wonderful bottle, very much in the same vein as G&M’s relatively recent ‘Recollection’ version. One almost gets the impression that the Signatory gave it a helpful leg-up, so to speak.
SGP:561 - 92 points. |
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June 9, 2026 |
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A few Smögen from Sweden
At the risk of sounding ridiculous once again, I confess that for a time I thought Smögen was simply the Swedish word for “smoke”, all the more so since in Breton one says moged. I later discovered that “smoke” is actually rök, and that Smögen is in fact the name of a place, very charming, no less, in Bohuslän. And, naturally, of a whisky distillery. You see, whisky leads to knowledge, and knowledge is power. Is it not anymore? Now then, by way of an aperitif, we shall sample an Askeim, Smögen’s unpeated, or scarcely peated, version. Askeim means “ask them” in Swedish, doesn't it? Well, you see, we fear no ridicule... |
Jo Bonnier (1930-1972) |
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Askeim 8 yo ‘Batch No.2’ (57.2%, OB, Sweden, +/-2026)
A version made from Golden Promise and triple-distilled. Batch 1 from 2024, bottled at 57.7%, had been very, very much to my liking (WF 90). Colour: golden amber. Nose: imagine freshly baked pumpernickel drizzled with a little pepper liqueur and crème de menthe, then generously spread with orange marmalade and a compote of vegetables, particularly grilled aubergines and, let us be honest, a touch of smoke. Improbable? Not quite as much as it sounds... With water: we descend into earthiness, old pu-ehr tea and very dark turrón. Mouth (neat): a mirror image of the nose, only fruitier, more jammy and rather spicier. There is something faintly rye-like about it, the pumpernickel remains, alongside those grilled and smoked vegetables. With water: really very good now, everything has knitted together through the grace of water, while a duo of juniper and pepper keeps perfect time. Finish: long, moving towards gingerbread, citrus zests, cinnamon and even a faintly festive character, rather reminiscent of Stollen. Pepper lingers in the aftertaste. Comments: Batch 1 was less marked by the cask, purer if memory serves, but I am equally fond of this more massive style, one that feels decidedly wintery.
SGP:662 - 89 points. |
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Smögen 15 yo (55.7%, OB, Sweden, batch #L001, bourbon barrels, 2025)
A marriage of several casks and, inevitably, Smögen’s first-ever 15-year-old, distilled in 2010, the distillery’s inaugural vintage. Colour: pale gold. Nose: gentler despite being peatier, already slightly rounded by time, giving the impression of a synthesis between Caol Ila and Ardbeg, ultimately not all that far removed from the spirit of Kornog in Brittany, with which it shares a number of traits. Perhaps a little more fermentary, very slightly more mentholated and medicinal. In short, it is superb. With water: we move closer to the barley itself, along with the ashes of fir wood. Mouth (neat): that distinctive blade-like character dipped into a mixture of seawater and menthol. Behind it lies slightly tart apple juice mingled with ashes. With water: richer and fruitier now, to the point where one almost feels that the peat has acted as a precursor to fruity compounds, as it so often seems to do in many of Islay’s greatest names. Pink grapefruits and guavas, with a little honey. Finish: long and rather gentle, the blade-like edge now gone, which ultimately, and bizarrely, makes it somewhat dangerous. Read easier. Orange-infused vanilla cream lingers in the aftertaste. Comments: in theory, a distillery’s first year must inevitably involve a period of fine-tuning, yet none of that is apparent here. A bullseye at the very first attempt.
SGP:655 - 91 points. |
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Smögen 12 yo 2014/2026 ‘100 proof’ (57.1%, OB, Sweden, bourbon & sherry)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: the sherry feels almost incidental here, although those little notes of exhaust fumes and brand-new tyres may well stem from it. I cannot help thinking of the great and much-missed Swedish racing driver Jo Bonnier, whom my father, an automotive engineer, had met before his fatal crash at Le Mans in 1972 (end of family reminiscences, I promise). This Smögen then becomes increasingly pure, taut and precise, rather like Jo’s driving. Earth, roots and quiet authority. With water: fresh mint, cigarette ash, gentian, angelica and fresh turmeric. Mouth (neat): forget the analysis, it is simple and it is perfect. Lemon, seawater, peat and perhaps a touch of green walnut from the sherry, although I may well be dreaming. In its own way, it is almost the antithesis of the 15-year-old, yet the quality level is exactly the same. With water: the earthy, rooty side becomes even more expressive, while the lemon shines all the brighter. Finish: long, with liquorice wood arriving towards the end. Clearly, quite a lot is happening beneath the surface. Comments: a wonderful bottle. I should, however, like the owners to send me proof that sherry casks were actually involved. Only joking, of course.
SGP:566 - 91 points. |
Oh, so you wanted some sherry... |
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Smögen 12 yo 2013/2025 (58.3%, Casky, the Antelope & Cask le Sens, first fill PX hogshead, cask #5 :2, 274 bottles)
PX, according to our own little doctrine, is very much the danger zone. Then again, danger does not necessarily imply disaster, does it? We are dealing here with a classically peated barley malt at 50ppm. Colour: dark red mahogany. If that is not the PX, I do not know what is. Nose: the exhaust fumes are back at full throttle, the Paris ring road (périphérique) at rush hour, nutmeg, prunes, roasted artichokes, crème de cassis and, naturally, walnut liqueur (Nusswasser, as my grandmother used to call it, since we seem to be wandering into family recollections). Old Dutch genever as well. Oh, and aquavit. With water: gingerbread generously moistened with kirsch. Mouth (neat): rich and weighty, though not in the least to its detriment, while also displaying plenty of strawberry jam liberally dusted with black pepper. The fruitcake character returns, alongside Stollen and even Linzertorte. It all feels remarkably Mitteleuropean for a Swedish whisky selected for Hong Kong’s Bay, does it not? And we have not even mentioned the glacé cherries yet... With water: precisely, here come the glacé cherries, accompanied by juniper, pepper, coriander seed, plenty of bitter orange and pine needles. Finish: very long, a veritable fruitcake. You could almost keep your bottle until the next Christmas festivities, assuming the planet has not exploded by then. Comments: in truth, it is rather superb, if somewhat disconcerting. I suspect you could also add a thimbleful or two to your beer and create a half-and-half that is very... Mitteleuropean indeed.
SGP:666 (devilish) - 88 points. |
I suggest we round things off quickly with a version that is no doubt ultra-clean... |
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Smögen 11 yo 2014/2025 (60%, OB for The Whisky Blues, Sweden, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #12, 280 bottles)
Colour: sauvignon blanc. Nose: we find echoes of Riesling from Hunawihr, Ribeauvillé or Bergheim, perhaps even the Wachau, alongside wet chalk, tart apples, little olives and lemon, grist, this morning’s freshly baked baguette and a measured dose of antiseptic. With water: now fully focused on peated barley malt, kiln notes and all the rest of it. Mouth (neat): magnificently simple. A rather unusual touch of quince at first, followed by ashes, seawater, fresh bread, modelling clay, green pepper and lemon juice. No unnecessary chatter this time. With water: bang, it becomes magnificent once again, with pepper and a little honey stepping forward and taking gentle control of proceedings. Finish: long, superb and tightly focused again, on tart apples, lime and green pepper. Comments: after an Earth, Wind & Fire concert from their glory days with the PX, we somehow found ourselves in a confessional. Believe me, it was remarkably restful, despite all our sins. Another magnificent Smögen.
SGP:466 - 91 points. |
That's quite enough of that. Nu räcker det! |
P.S. Since we are on the subject of anecdotes, imagine that our quiet little town here in Alsace, Colmar, was captured by the Swedish troops of Gustaf Horn in 1632. Perhaps I therefore have a very distant Swedish ancestor... Which might, at least in part, explain my fondness for Smögen. Who knows! |
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June 8, 2026 |
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The Time Warp Sessions,
today two Caol Ila 1983s bottled 30 years apart |
Which effectively gives us a 12-year-old versus a 42-year-old from the same vintage. Interesting, isn’t it? Quite surprisingly, the alcohol strengths are similar. One might also speculate that production in 1983 was fairly substantial, given that the owners had closed both Port Ellen and Brora in the spring of that same year. But that is purely conjecture on my part… Incidentally, it goes without saying that we are dealing here with the “new” Caol Ila, the original distillery having been demolished and rebuilt some ten years earlier.
This moving gravestone was erected in 1935 by the wife and daughter of Peter Dewar, former manager of Caol Ila. It is located in the cemetery of the Round Church in Bowmore (WF Archive) |
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Caol Ila 1983/1996 (59.6%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #53.15)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: this is rather hot, rather brutal, more tarry than more recent Caol Ilas, and you'll forgive me for saying that it brings Port Ellen a little to mind. Or perhaps a marriage of Port Ellen and Lagavulin. Brand-new rubber boots, clams, grapefruit peel, fresh tarmac, and a faint touch of smoked salmon. Very smoky indeed. With water: imagine unwrapping the brand-new diving suit you've just bought. Or perhaps a latex suit, although we rather lack experience in that particular field. Mouth (neat): tremendous power, with more sweetness than the nose had suggested (Corsican citron liqueur), once again that tarry edge, together with a combination of cough syrup and pepper liqueur. Metté, here in Alsace, produces a Sichuan pepper eau-de-vie, I really ought to try it one of these days. In short, this is excellent, and it does bring to mind the young CIs from G&M's CASK series. With water: very little change, except that the grapefruits and lemons become rather more talkative. Finish: long, a little more austere, almost rasping, yet we surrender to it with great pleasure. Comments: I do not have the impression that thirty years in bottle have altered this rather magnificent young baby very much, remarkably peaty for a Caol Ila.
SGP:567 - 90 points. |
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Caol Ila 42 yo 1983/2026 (56.4%, OB, Rare Series, refill American oak hogshead and European oak puncheons, 318 bottles)
What happened in that European oak puncheon was a period of marrying several casks together, although I'm not entirely sure how long that marriage lasted. Then again, whiskies never get divorced, do they? In any case, here comes another member of Diageo's new ‘Rare Series’ via Justerini & Brooks, while we're only just recovering from last week's utterly superlative Clynelish 42/1983 (WF 93). Colour: gold. Nose: no need to say, we cannot really know what stems from the puncheon and what comes from forty-two years in ‘regular’ wood, but here is another perfect example of a whisky that was heavily peated in its youth (proof just above) whose peat has transmuted into fruit, chiefly exotic fruit, much in the manner of the famous Bowmores and Laphroaigs of the 1950s and 1960s. Long story short, mangoes and passion fruits have begun to seize power, with little bananas serving as senior officers. Yet the peaty and coastal elements remain and, if I may say so, provide the infantry. Together they form a remarkably efficient army. Oh, and eucalyptus and mint provide the drones. With water: polishes, waxed papers, old parchments, ancient books... One could almost imagine oneself in the Vatican Library, or at least in one's imagination of it. Mouth (neat): sublime, poised between all worlds, exotic fruits, shellfish, seaweed, every imaginable derivative of petroleum and rubber tree sap, while a gentle honeyed and peppery touch wraps the whole composition together. The puncheon? With water: back to the origins, pure peat, pepper, citrus fruits, oysters, seawater, antiseptic... How amusing, water behaves rather like an elastic band here, in a sense. Or perhaps it simply erases the influence of that famous puncheon? Finish: long, purer still, almost simple, though in the finest possible sense of the word. Comments: it could hardly reach the heights of the Clynelish, yet it comes remarkably close.
SGP:566 - 92 points. |
Needless to say, a cross-generational vatting of the two companions in your glass works wonderfully well. We raised a glass to Peter Dewar’s memory! |
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June 7, 2026 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
Just a few cognacs and armagnacs |
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This photo was reportedly taken during a recent official luncheon
convened to make a definitive decision on the correct way to spell
“Bas-Armagnac”. The meeting was deemed 'inconclusive'. (WF) |
A short, fairly quick and somewhat disorganised session, but we shall nevertheless begin it with our traditional old-fashioned aperitif. |
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Castillon ‘V.S.O.P.’ (40%, OB, cognac, Fine Champagne, +/-1975)
We had tasted an older Castillon a few weeks ago and it had not been bad at all (WF 80) despite the ravages of time. This very one is among the very last bottlings from the house before it disappeared. Colour: deep amber. Nose: very much centred on sultanas at first, then gingerbread and dried figs. Quite pleasant, but really driven almost entirely by dried fruits, as was the case with many middle-of-the-road cognacs of the era. We would not quite call this a malternative, at least not at this stage. Mouth: the sultanas return, but there is far more authority here, with toasted bread, a faintly sherried brandy character, pipe tobacco, toasted sesame seeds and a few notes of prunes. In any case, it is distinctly better on the palate and, in that sense, rather malternative indeed. Finish: fairly long, not overly marked by caramel, but Corinth raisins have well and truly taken control. It remains thoroughly good, with a touch of liquorice in the aftertaste. Comments: the palate is really rather charming, while the nose feels somewhat less essential.
SGP:551 - 79 points. |
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A de Fussigny ‘2050’ (40%, OB, 2024)
An organic cognac, presented in an amusing plastic bottle wrapped in woven rush, or something along those lines. The name ‘2050’ would seem to suggest a desire to help preserve the future, which can hardly be criticised of course. Besides, nobody would imagine it to be a 2050 vintage, which makes a pleasant change from all those pseudo-old vintages displayed more or less subtly on certain bottles across all categories. Right then, let’s taste it… Colour: pale gold. Nose: we find the house style once again, beautifully balanced between herbal and leafy notes on one side, and fruits and flowers on the other. Truth be told, this is rather lovely, especially on honeysuckle and apple skins, with a touch of aniseed and liquorice. Mouth: excellent, fresh, and once again impeccably balanced, with liquorice, walnuts, hazelnuts, green melon, a hint of candied sugar, menthol tobacco and just-ripe apricots. I like this a great deal, it has a faintly Highland-ish side for a Cognac, if you see what I mean. Finish: fairly long, a little more herbal, and very coherent throughout. Comments: the bottle may be a little odd, but the cognac inside is excellent. Above all, and I do insist, it is remarkably well balanced.
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
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Domaine d’Embidoure ‘XO’ (42%, OB, armagnac, +/-2025)
Here we are in the Gers, with a house that also produces Vins de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne. In theory, what we have in our glass is a Haut-Armagnac. Colour: full gold. Nose: more austere than the Fussigny, drier, and far less expressive, with a rather herbal eau-de-vie side that is not especially inviting. It is true that we are accustomed to tasting mostly cognacs and armagnacs from houses already selected and, in a way, already endorsed by enthusiasts, but when you venture in at random, which is exactly what happened here (I simply thought the bottle looked attractive), it becomes quite another matter. That said, the notes of small, almost wild apples are rather charming. Mouth: better than the nose had suggested, but still decidedly rustic, with a rather awkward split between green fruits and syrupy sweetness. Finish: much the same. Comments: this rather puts things back into perspective. From now on, I shall probably continue trusting my friends when it comes to cognac and armagnac. In the world of spirits, chance too often gets things wrong.
SGP:551 - 60 points. |
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Château Hontambère 2014/2026 (54.5%, OB, for Le Blog à Roger, Ténarèze, folle blanche, cask #H1, 100 bottles)
Le Blog à Roger is an excellent Belgian blog that shares with us a sometimes delightfully excessive passion for great spirits. They are celebrating their ninth anniversary with this handsome Ténarèze, and we have been looking forward to tasting it. Colour: full gold. Nose: not vastly different from the previous one, except that everything is ten times better. The profile, the power, the precision, the sense of place... And the folle blanche of course. Little herbs, wild carrots, fennel seeds, apples and plums, acacia blossom, elderflower (in moderation, naturally) ... With water: some lovely fermentary touches emerge, and we are always fond of those in our spirits. There is almost a brown ale character, if you can imagine such a thing, which is really taking matters rather far. Guaranteed success at any feria, one would think. Mouth (neat): fruitier on the palate, yet unmistakably Ténarèze, with brown tobacco, caramelised fruits and even chocolate praline. Now that is sinful... With water: everything falls neatly into place, it almost gains in power with dilution, while also becoming more rustic, displaying that unmistakable countryside character. Finish: it moves towards small fruits gathered in an abandoned orchard, especially apples, with even a faint saline edge. The aftertaste is more on preserved fruits and jams. Comments: a top young armagnac, one for your most precious hip flask.
SGP:562 - 88 points. |
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Vallein-Tercinier 2020/2025 (64.3%, Piacere Rinato, Fins Bois)
A new independent bottler from the Netherlands who had the good sense to select a very young Fins Bois from a very good house. This ought to clear the airways rather efficiently (ha)... Colour: full gold. Nose: naturally, at such a lofty strength the alcohol rather barricades the nostrils, but peaches and lush herbal notes are already apparent. For the rest, we shall place our trust in water... With water: waxes and furniture polish, rather in the style of a young bourbon from a major house, although peach skins quickly reclaim centre stage. Mouth (neat): a magnificent muscat-like character! This feels rather brilliant indeed, although it remains undeniably fiery. There is only one cure... With water: ah, mint, eucalyptus, pine resin, citron and what could almost be called a Gascon limoncello. Finish: long and sublimely citrus-driven. Comments: it is rather frightening that such a young Fins Bois can be this good. It almost amounts to a Copernican revolution in the world of brandies... I shall say no more, except that I very nearly pushed it to WF 90.
SGP:661 - 89 points. |
Since we're already venturing into frighteningly high ABVs... |
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Michelet 2018/2025 ‘Lot nr. 18’ (64.9%, Piacere Rinato, Grande Champagne)
Here we are in Segonzac, with a house I had never tasted before. I knew Michelet the famous historian, but not the cognac makers bearing the same name (very clever, S.) I should add that the utter simplicity of the label bodes extremely well. At the very least, we can be certain they did not use any AI. Colour: gold. Nose: if you enjoy parsley, wild garlic and little tart apples, this is very much for you. And for me. With water: the water softens those notes somewhat, replacing them with more classical aromas of stewed fruits, compotes and sultanas. Mouth (neat): they are already becoming rather troublesome at Piacere Rinato, given how good everything seems to be. Which, of course, makes them dangerous. With water: the exact opposite of the nose, as dilution reveals little herbs, liquorice, poppy seeds and fennel. Finish: long, with more lemony notes. The classic touches of glue reappear in the aftertaste. Magnificent tension throughout. Comments: the prices are outrageous. In the best possible sense. To whom it may concern...
SGP:651 - 88 points. |
It's always a bit of a mess in France, so is it Bas-Armagnac? Bas Armagnac? bas armagnac? Bas armagnac? Bas-armagnac? I get the impression that nobody really knows, or at least that the matter has always been debated over a few drinks, after an enormous duck confit au foie gras and mountains of pommes sarladaises, without ever reaching any definitive conclusion... No wonder! |
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Baron de Sigognac 1973 (46.2%, Old Master Spirits, bas armagnac, +/-2026)
Here we are again in Australia, back in the days of the formidable, and thoroughly mad, Mackenzie Theory (Google is supposed to be your friend). Colour: amber. Nose: abundant stewed fruits, mingling with meadow honey, all sprinkled with coriander and fresh mint. The whole is compact, coherent and perfectly integrated, which is pretty much the exact opposite of Mackenzie Theory. Right. Mouth: much firmer and tauter on the palate, earthier and spicier too, although that is more than normal at this age. Cedarwood, calvados, tobacco, touches of varnish and plenty of prunes. Finish: it drifts slightly towards old fortified wines, rancio notes and even very old PX. Very dark chocolate and oak in the aftertaste, although a touch of orange liqueur keeps everything nicely lifted. Comments: this is an old armagnac, and it shows. Certain organoleptic dimensions become almost philosophical at this stage, but that is precisely what an old spirit is about, a complete experience rather than a simple tasting. Indeed.
SGP:551 - 88 points. |
Right, one last one, then next Sunday it's back to rum, if all goes well... |
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Guillaume Duluc ‘Napoléon’ (70%, Authentic Spirits, Grande Champagne, +/-2026)
Pure ugni blanc. At 70% vol., we say our prayers and rather hope that both the Duluc house and Authentic Spirits have taken out every conceivable insurance policy, including public liability, water damage, hospitalisation, repatriation, explosions, fire, business interruption and the rest. All in order? Right then, let us proceed, as Napoléon himslef used to say, 'First engage in battle, then see what happens.'... Colour: amber. Nose: this is really on the edge, you almost feel as though you have just gone a round with Tyson, such is the extent to which your nose has already been anaesthetised. With (a lot of) water: twigs, green melon, grape stalks and a faint touch of rubber... The rascal is not giving in without a fight. Mouth (neat): we are really only capable of saying that it is very good, which is almost a reflex under such circumstances. It does bring to mind certain young Willetts, though. With water: there we are, it has finally opened up, sweeter now, yet still kind of taut and untamed. This remains more ultra-trail than an afternoon of bridge or Scrabble. Finish: long, with a texture that is not quite as thick as expected, alongside some residual sweetness. Pears appear right at the end. Comments: this was not a tasting, it was genuinely a contest of wills. I rather think they should include a small booklet explaining the best way to reduce it, so that it may be enjoyed under optimal conditions. It seems difficult to leave the drinker entirely to his own devices in such extremely demanding circumstances. Just saying...
SGP:541 - 87 points. |
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June 5, 2026 |
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Three cracking Benromach plus probably another one |
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| (Visit Forres) |
While we continue to wrestle with the highly seminal question of whether a Benromach bottled by Gordon & MacPhail, even one distilled under the previous owners, should be considered an OB or an IB, let’s sample this little trio. After all, that’s what really matters... |
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Benromach 2003/2025 ‘Small Batch Edition #1’ (56%, OB, first fill bourbon and sherry)
You understand, as stated on the label, this is ‘made by hand for genuine character’. We promise that it shall be ‘tasted by hand, for genuine opinion’. Colour: deep gold. Nose: an immediate burst of boot polish, almost military-grade, followed by orange blossom and marmalade. In the background, some drawing gum, oil paint and a little mustardy touch, all of it very much ‘Benro’, if I may say so. With water: here come the menthol and the resinous notes, the family is now complete. Mouth (neat): this is more Benromach than Benromach, with a trio of orange zests, pepper and mustard, alongside a salty edge and plenty of rolling tobacco, in the style of French grey tobacco. The boot polish is never far away either. With water: it is the oily, waxy side that takes centre stage, alongside the citrus fruits, and we can only insist once again that we are bang on that magical route, HP – Clynelish – Benromach – Ben Nevis – Springbank. From north to south, as you will have gathered. Finish: long, oily, yet lively and spirited. The little salty touch returns, together with the tobacco right at the very end. Comments: they seem to have wanted to offer a C/S sitting squarely on Benromach’s DNA, so to speak. Let us admit that it makes perfect sense.
SGP:562 - 90 points. |
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Benromach 2002/2025 (55.6%, OB, for Wisedrink China, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #365, 150 bottles)
As a matter of fact, we were kind of suggesting above that this ought to work beautifully with certain Chinese cuisines as well… Colour: white wine. Nose: far less exuberant, tighter, more compact, purer too. We find oil paint and paraffin, together with damp ashes, rather like being caught out by a summer shower in the middle of a barbecue. You get the picture. With water: grist, wort, baker’s yeast, ale. We are descending to the level of the raw materials themselves, and we love that at Château WF. Mouth (neat): simple perfection, perfect simplicity (oh S., come on). Lemon juice, pepper, ashes, salt. With water: a little rounder and fruitier now, yet with an utterly irresistible manzanilla side. Or dry PX (seco). Yes, we did notice it was a bourbon cask. Finish: much the same, the whole ensemble signed by lemon, green walnut, cider apples, pepper and salt. Comments: magical, top-class distillate. I know, we have been banging on about this for years…
SGP:562 - 91 points. |
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Benromach 48 yo 1976/2025 (43.8%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice Heritage Collection, first fill sherry hogshead)
In theory, this should be an unpeated version from D.C.L., since it was Speymalt, aka G&M, who decided to peat Benromach again after acquiring it in 1993 and restarting production in, I believe, 1998, as it had been in the old days. So then, is this an OB or an IB? Answers on a postcard, if you please. By the way, as we were mentioning above that magical route which also passes through Ben Nevis, we may recall that Benromach once belonged to Joseph Hobbs, who also owned… Ben Nevis (and Lochside, etc.) Colour: gold. Nose: what really stands out here is the waxy side, the furniture polish, the overripe apples, the peaches, and then that coastal character, tiny seashells, a few flowers, broom, dandelions, buttercups… In short, it is very lovely indeed, although it may not quite possess the kind of depth of the ‘modern’ versions we have just tasted. Mouth: ah yes, hold on, this is nevertheless extremely beautiful, with pepper, fruit skins, beer, a leathery side, gentle spices, nutmeg, mead… And above all that beeswax, slightly acidic here, this time leaning more towards vin jaune than manzanilla or fino. Finish: indeed, in the end we are not quite so far removed from the modern versions, there is substance, tension, spices, an earthy side, it’s slightly phenolic too… Comments: in fact, nothing tells us that D.C.L./S.M.D., in 1976, were not producing slightly peated batches from time to time, much as they were doing a little further north along the coast, beyond Inverness. Indeed that would be Brora. A magnificent bottle, superior in my view to certain 1976s or 1977s released previously. It sometimes seems to me that G&M manage their casks in much the same way as we eat our truffle fettuccine. First the pasta, the truffles later.
SGP:562 - 91 points. |
How about a cheeky little bonus? |
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Glen Mosset 11 yo 2014/2026 (55.9%, Le Gus’t, hogshead, cask #1018, 298 bottles)
As you probably know, Glen Mosset is a trade name for Benromach. Strictly between us (hush…), independent bottlers have often complained that they were not allowed to use certain names, such as Glenfarclas, or sometimes Laphroaig, yet when they acquire or build their own distillery, they are often the first to do exactly the same thing to other independents. Funny how that works… Colour: pale white wine. Nose: cask impact is minimal here, we are close to pear coated in boot polish and then rolled through ashes, before moving on to ale and wet chalk. You are virtually touring the distillery in full production! Pot ale. With water: fermentation, wort, yoghurt, kombucha, bread dough, sourdough… Mouth (neat): but this is so good! Tremendous tension, linseed oil, lemon juice, firm acidity, ashes and tar, our famous boot polish, a few touches of fennel and aniseed, very ‘natural’ white wine… With water: it relaxes, fruits begin to emerge, morello cherries, apples, small pears, gooseberries, but also white pepper and a rather gentle chilli note. All of it watched over by our friends the lemons. Finish: much the same, then a peppery and slightly mustardy aftertaste of great beauty. Comments: irrefutable proof that this is a matter of distillate, not really of cask. The whole beauty of distillate-oriented malts. Indeed, the true grands crus of whisky. Well done Le Gus’t and well done Benromach (if Glen Mosset really is Benromach, that is – only joking, naturally).
SGP:562 - 90 points. |
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