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October 17, 2025 |
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WF's Little Duos, today Glen Ord
There's this new official Special Release, and there is one by Signatory. In other words, a proper fight... |
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The Singleton of Glen Ord 17 yo 'Into the Blue' (55.5%, OB, Special Releases 2025, second fill ex-sherry and mezcal finish) 
Into the blue? In any case, agave spirits do seem to be making their mark on Diageo's malts, and one can’t say it’s a daft idea given our fondness for top-notch mezcals and great tequilas. Colour: pale gold. Nose: fairly oily at first nosing, with earthy touches and pipe ash, then increasingly briny olive oil and gherkins in brine. This is all very mezcal indeed, though perhaps not quite what one would expect from an Ord. Let’s dig a little deeper, if you don’t mind... With water: more notes of damp paper and wet cardboard, still plenty of olives, some green tapenade (anchovies, garlic and olives), and even a dab of aioli. The malt itself doesn’t have a huge amount to say, but we do enjoy the overall effect. Mouth (neat): a UFO of sorts, the mezcal is front and centre—salty, peppery, briny, packed with olives—then a honey and vanilla combo that feels almost out of place in this context. All this is rather ‘trans’, as they say. With water: the malt resurfaces, with hints of beer and chocolate, but the mezcal still runs the show, cartel-style. Ha. Finish: medium in length, earthier still, with a touch of coconut in the aftertaste. Comments: a wee Glen O(rd)axaca in fine fettle, even if the whole remains a little... odd.
SGP:352 - 82 points. |
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Glen Ord 12 yo 2012/2025 '100 proof Edition #43' (57.1%, Signatory Vintage, 1st fill bourbon barrel) 
Let’s be honest, these fights aren’t much fun when the outcome is this predictable... Colour: pale gold. Nose: grape seed oil and peanut oil at first, then citrus peels, paraffin, fresh barley, sourdough starter, and wee apples from an old orchard. Oh bother! With water: hints of soaked ashes and crushed slate, plus some fresh apple juice. Still awfully painful, I mean, I mean the opposite, right. Mouth (neat): pure lemon and wax. A flawless profile, crystal-clear lines, total freshness—it’s practically a single malt in a bikini. Quite excruciating indeed. With water: I hardly dare say it, but Ord is a truly great malt, and this is an expression of remarkable fidelity and admirable purity. It’s honestly a bit much. Finish: painfully long, precise, chiselled and... painful. Comments: since we’re among ourselves, we can admit that one rather expects this kind of ultra-distillate-forward profile from the... distillers. Signatory really ought to be awarded the Légion d'Honneur (a fairly pointless French bauble).
SGP:461 - 88 points. |
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October 16, 2025 |
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A solo tasting, Roseisle!
We never do this – but this time, we’re just not feeling creative enough to pit another malt against Roseisle. Unless… well, you never know... |
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Roseisle 14 yo 'Harmonic Grace' (55.9%, OB Special Releases 2025, refill and rejuvenated casks) 
Remember that? Everyone was talking about Roseisle when the distillery first fired up the stills, and then... radio silence. We visited back then; it was a lovely experience. Playful label, very ‘AI’. The name ‘Harmonic Grace’ sounds like a Buddhist mantra, by Imee Ooi perhaps? Colour: pale gold. Nose: it’s light, soft, malty, on apples and pears, with no edges and nothing out of place. One thinks of Glenfiddich 12 straight away. With water: a few notes of roasted peanuts and white nougat. Mouth (neat): of course it’s good, it’s ultra-classic, all on malt with touches of coffee, limoncello, and pilsner beer. Very light, very ‘natural’, despite a few hints of that absolute abomination some call Dubai-style chocolate. With water: no major change, save for a faint bitterness. Finish: rather short but pleasing, more on lemons and beer. Comments: this is certainly very good, it’s just a tiny wee tad dull(ish).
SGP:551 - 84 points. |
Wait, we've finally got an idea for a sparring partner. What would you say to this…? |
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Aldunie (Kinninvie) 26 yo 1997/2023 (52.6%, The Whisky Blues, barrel, cask #2032, 155 bottles) 
These labels remain as stunning as ever, but William Grant's Kinninvie has never exactly been the stuff of malted dreams... Truth be told, it probably wasn’t designed to catapult malt enthusiasts straight to Mars. Colour: pale gold. Nose: but how very close this is to Roseisle! Pre-AI whisky, one might say, very good, but slightly devoid of emotion. That said, there are plenty of charming wee touches, green tea, putty, lime, quince, fresh rubber... though all of it speaks in a whisper. With water: much the same, though a tad more characterful and earthy than the Roseisle. Mouth (neat): right, this is really very good now, with a lovely lemon and some green apple, along with a hint of liquorice wood. No complaints here. With water: folds in a little, moving towards beer, cider, and liquorice. Finish: rather long, a touch fuller and fresher than the Roseisle’s. Comments: neither Ardbeg nor Brora, but it takes all sorts to build a malty world, does it not. Seriously, this is a very, very good malt, nothing to fault.
SGP:5514 - 85 points. |
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October 15, 2025 |
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A cracking stash of M&H
Recent events in the Middle East have given us reason to celebrate — and let’s be honest, such occasions have been rather scarce in recent years. So, we’ll be tasting a few M&H whiskies from Milk & Honey. In fact, quite a few, in true Whiskyfun style. Let’s take a look at what we’ve got in the library...
(Picture M&H) |
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M&H 2019/2022 'Ex-Rye Casks' (56.7%, OB, APEX, Israel, 2,111 bottles)
We know this kind of light in-cask blending of malt and rye can work rather well. Colour: gold. Nose: it's very dry, led by oak and fresh bread, with the faintest hints of fresh putty in the background. With water: the fruitiness steps forward with dilution, bringing wee pears and a touch of lemon peel, while the rye becomes more vocal too. Bags of green tea. Mouth (neat): very powerful, mostly on oak spices, peppers of all hues and small green fruits, gooseberries, lime, cactus flesh... With water: this is when it's at its most pleasant, fresh, still taut and rather dry, but very clean. Green tea in full bloom and a dab of honey. Finish: quite long and a continuation of the palate. A wee touch of violet in the aftertaste. Comments: very clean and compact, the rye works nicely. In short, we like it.
SGP:451 - 82 points. |
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M&H 2019/2023 'Madeira Wine Casks' (52.3%, OB, Art & Craft, Israel, 2,466 bottles)
This was a dessert-style Madeira wine, not a dry one. Colour: gold. Nose: much more presence than the rye, with a toasted side reminiscent of botrytis, raisins, hints of bresaola, a touch of camphor and an even lighter menthol... With water: and even faint smoky touches after dilution. Mouth (neat): the Madeira sings loudly but it works, very grapey, very expressive, still with those toasted notes but also a good dose of blood orange. Lovely stuff. With water: no major changes but it was already in fine shape. Finish: the blood orange returns alongside sultanas, with some pepper and black tea. A bitterness appears here, but it's well reined in. Comments: cheerful whisky, rather the opposite of the much more austere ex-rye.
SGP:651 - 84 points. |
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M&H 2018/2022 'Pomegranate Wine Casks' (57.4%, OB, APEX, Israel, 3,049 bottles)
This one spent the beginning of its life in bourbon, and was finished for six months in some intriguing pomegranate wine casks. I don’t believe I’ve ever tasted anything quite like this... Colour: gold. Nose: well we’re closer to the rye than the Madeira, surprisingly back to something more austere. Oak, putty, leafy notes... With water: citrus peel emerges. Mouth (neat): here comes the fruit! It’s zesty, lemony, plenty of lime and pink pepper. I’m not quite sure I could identify pomegranate wine blind, I must admit... With water: still citrus-led, and that’s very much to our liking. Note to self: track down a bottle of pomegranate wine post-haste. Finish: oranges return, both sweet and bitter. Comments: lovely tension, a delightful surprise.
SGP:551 - 84 points. |
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M&H 2019/2023 'Tokaji Wine Casks' (52%, OB, Art & Craft, Israel, 1,550 bottles)
One thing’s for certain, Tokaji and peat clash terribly. But there you go, I think this whisky wasn’t peated... Colour: pale gold. Nose: the sweet wine is rather prominent, bringing us closer to Greek muscats, perhaps even orange wine and rose liqueur. Under these conditions, the malt does seem to struggle a bit to assert itself. With water: water changes everything, it becomes better balanced, more malty, more forthright. Mouth (neat): it’s spectacularly fruity and sweet, yet there’s a peppery acidity that keeps it all in check. In the end, it’s really not bad at all, though the Tokaji remains firmly in charge. With water: once again, water brings balance. White grape berries, not necessarily furmint, a lovely honeyed vanilla and even a wee touch of salt... Finish: medium length, soft, very pleasantly fruity. Comments: water is a must; there you have it.
SGP:651 - 83 points. |
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M&H 2019/2023 'White Port Casks' (53.6%, OB, Art & Craft, Israel, 2,210 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: a faint whiff of sulphur that's not bothersome in the least, and vanishes quickly anyway, then salted butter caramel and quince jelly. With water: psst, just between us, it’s rather like Glenmorangie’s ex-Sauternes, Nectar d'Or. In fact, I dare say it might be a wee bit better, or rather more to my liking. Mouth (neat): very good, much fresher and livelier than expected, on orange liqueur and crème brûlée, with grated candied orange zest. No quibbles. With water: water often settles the matter, and here it brings out all manner of oranges, which we adore. Finish: aged orangecello and mandarins. Comments: my favourite so far.
SGP:641 - 85 points. |
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M&H 'Hartman's Cigar Blend' (50%, OB, Israel, virgin oak, PX and bourbon, 2024)
Hopefully we’re still allowed to taste this special blend, even if it’s been a long time since we last puffed on a cigar. Colour: deep gold. Nose: bravo. Very malty, closer to barley than all the previous ones, creamier on the nose too, with citrus to be sure, but also herbal infusions, vanilla pod, croissants, brioche — all is well so far. With water: indeed, it’s the citrus, especially tangerines, that lead the dance. Mouth (neat): truly excellent, like a well-made citrus liqueur with very little sugar. We’re miles away from the 'cigar blends' of old, those often heavy-handed things laden with sherry, chocolate, leather and... tobacco. Not here, this is fresh as a daisy. With water: an infusion rich in orange blossom, Earl Grey, and so on... Finish: rather long, a touch more on the wood, but as ever, the citrus straightens everything out. Comments: one almost wants to dig out an old Cuban Dom Pérignon from the humidor to enjoy alongside this splendid little M&H. Well, we’ll think about it.
SGP:641 - 87 points. |
I must admit, a slight shiver of apprehension is setting in now... |
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M&H 2019/2023 'Recioto Wine Casks' (55.1%, OB, Art & Craft, Israel, 2,210 bottles) 
I think Recioto is something of a cousin to Amarone, so we’ll approach this one with a touch of caution. Red wine and whisky, you know how it is... Colour: apricot. Nose: strawberry cake, cherry cake, goji berries and panettone. Perhaps the panettone will come to the front once water is added... With water: black pepper. In theory, pepper and strawberry go together beautifully, but theory and practice often don’t see eye to eye. Mouth (neat): it’s well made, it’s just not my thing. Grenadine, pepper, kirsch-soaked cherries and rustic sourdough. With water: it creaks and squeaks on all fronts. A personal take, as always. Finish: strawberry bread, grape seeds and bitter spices — does strawberry bread even exist? Comments: as I was saying, it’s probably well crafted, but it’s not really my cup of malt.
SGP:461 - 75 points. |
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M&H 'Jerusalem Mountains' (55.4%, OB, APEX Terroir, Israel, 3,285 bottles, 2025)
For this series, terroir refers to where the whisky was matured — in this case at higher altitude, where the climate is gentler than elsewhere in Israel. The concept is somewhat akin to what the Japanese at Mars do with their various ageing cellars. In return, there’s no stated age or vintage here, at least as far as I can tell. Colour: pale gold. Nose: fairly soft vanilla and a few touches of fir bud liqueur, then a little honey, also fir-driven. All quite subtle, but to the point. With water: classic young malt, very well executed, in the style of certain young Scots or indeed Japanese. Mouth (neat): say no more, this is very good. Fresh, malty, lemony, beautifully herbal, with notes of verbena and a splash of Chartreuse. I rather feel M&H have upped their game with this very recent baby. With water: same impression. Tiny hints of anise and mint, exactly what was called for in this context. Finish: not very long but the addition of finger lime seals the deal. A very faint tarry note in the aftertaste. Comments: let’s remain polite — we won’t say we’re surprised, but... well yes, we are surprised.
SGP:561 - 88 points. |
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M&H 'Dead Sea' (57.4%, OB, APEX Terroir, Israel, 5,609 bottles, 2025)
Here we are at some -350m altitude, what’s going to happen? I haven’t checked this part, but I imagine the base distillate was the same throughout, and that the only variable was the maturation location. In short, a proper scientific approach... Colour: gold, so a slightly deeper hue. Nose: it’s a little less expressive, a little less fresh, perhaps a tad oilier. One gets sunflower oil, for instance, though I’ve no idea whether sunflowers grow in Israel, ha. The rest is close to the ‘JM’. With water: yes, slightly fattier... Mouth (neat): even closer to the Jerusalem, to be honest I’m not sure I could reliably detect the influence of the maturation site on the palate. Finding more salt, for instance, could simply be a trick of the mind (or what’s left of it, ha). Anyway, let’s move on — it’s very similar... With water: same again, very close, and thus very good. Finish: again very similar, but with some pink grapefruit notes emerging right at the end that weren’t quite as noticeable in the previous one. Comments: to do this sort of thing properly you’d need blind tastings and all sorts of controls. We’re a bit mad, but not that mad. At least, we hope not.
SGP:561 - 88 points. |
Let’s pick up the pace. We had a feeling these 'Terroir' expressions would be good — but not this good... |
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M&H 'Sea of Galilee' (56.2%, OB, APEX Terroir, Israel, 3,001 bottles, 2025)
Colour: gold. Nose: less expressive than the previous two, probably closer to the more ‘core’ M&H expressions, which we haven’t sampled today. That said, there are some lovely hints of exotic fruits and a few raisins, plus tiny pinches of turmeric and ginger. Raisin and banana cake, would that do for you? With water: closer to the previous ones, perhaps a tad spicier. Mouth (neat): much more expressive on the palate, citrus comes back to take charge, there’s fresh resinous wood — in short, all is well. With water: orange buttercream steps in to keep order, green spices too. Finish: here we’re almost identical to the Dead Sea. Comments: superfluous.
SGP:561 - 87 points. |
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M&H 'Negev Desert' (54.2%, OB, APEX Terroir, Israel, 2,194 bottles, 2025)
A desert should, in theory, push up the strength, but that doesn’t seem to have been the case here. Colour: gold. Nose: a decidedly fruitier version, more on sweets, jelly babies — honestly, it almost smells like a young Balblair, just like the ones we tried yesterday. Seriously! With water: small citruses, great pleasures. indeed, that’s our new motto. Mouth (neat): fresh, lemony, very pretty, it feels a bit like we’ve landed in the Lowlands of Israel, if such a place existed. With water: well, blow me, they really didn’t miss the mark with this series. Finish: lemon tart, with meringue of course. Comments: a thousand bravos!!!
SGP:661 - 88 points. |
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M&H 2020/2023 (67.2%, OB, for Whisky Picnic Bar, Israel, Private Cask Selection, Dead Sea ex-bourbon cask, cask #2020-2156, 148 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: nothing, nichts, nada, niente, and that’s the murderous strength. Perhaps a few extremely distant notes of very, very ripe oranges. With water: jelly babies, perhaps... There’s also a marked minerality, quite unusual. And hang on, a bit of pineapple? Mouth (neat): a flamethrower in your mouth, but again, the citrus seems to be trying to wrest back control. With water: now perfect, compact, fruity, irrepressible (yes?) and sublimely citrusy. Finish: young Rosebank? Comments: make no mistake, if folks like our friends in Taiwan are starting to select casks like this, it’s not without good reason. Honestly, we adore it. And blast it, barely three years old!
SGP:651 - 89 points. |
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October 14, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today indie Balblair
Let us see what treasures we hold, and venture forth in search of northern fruits… |
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Balblair 14 yo 2011/2025 (53.1%, Dràm Mor, PX quarter cask finish, cask #9026, 76 bottles)
Sorry for always writing ‘Dràm Mor’ with only half the required accents, it’s just that while we do have an ‘à’ on a French keyboard, the other one’s sadly missing. I know, lazy typing… Colour: full gold. Nose: the fresh fruitiness of the distillate and the thicker, stickier fruitiness of the PX appear to be getting along peacefully and together sketch out a profile that’s a bit along the lines of sultanas, freshly squeezed orange juice and light honey, with no intrusive woodiness despite it being a quarter cask. With water: peaches poached in wine with pepper. Mouth (neat): powerful, peppery, fairly woody, a bit more disorderly, with notes of Swiss cheese, raisins and spicy orange marmalade. It’s rather unusual, let’s put it that way. With water: little change. Finish: long, even drier, and more peppery too. Dark tobacco. Comments: a somewhat un-Dràm Mor Dràm Mor, this slightly offbeat Balblair in my view. Then again, a PX quarter cask, that’s a bit of an oddball idea, how shall I put it… But we know the next Dràm Mor, whatever it may be, will be in a completely different league.
SGP:561 - 80 points. |
Let’s take the opportunity to bring out an older independent release, from a grand vintage at Balblair… |
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Balblair 18 yo 1990/2008 (58.7%, Riegger’s Selection, hogshead, cask #160)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: we’re straight into full-on Haribo territory here, with peach and apricot liqueurs, fizzy lemonade, candyfloss and the whole jolly bag of sweets. With water: all-in on stewed apples and rhubarb compote. Mouth (neat): some grey pepper, fruit-flavoured sweets, limoncello and a punchy Californian IPA. But it’s the ginger tonic that comes through next and ends up taking the reins a little. With water: the yellow fruits reclaim their place, banana foam sweets, peaches, lemon… Finish: fairly long, with notes of that fashionable spritz everyone’s into these days, the limoncello spritz. Comments: really good stuff, rather easy, zesty and fresh. Balblair’s fruitiness shines through beautifully.
SGP:651 - 85 points. |
Hold on, we’ll add an unusual official release for China. So much is happening there these days… |
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Balblair 1999/2016 (48.1%, OB, for Single Malt Club China, cask #1709, 498 bottles)
I think I had never seen this baby before, but that’s hardly surprising. There were some lovely official 1999s around the mid-2010s. Colour: mahogany. Nose: tons of dried figs, prunes, tamarind jam and toffee. It’s really quite spectacular, like an old PX from a solera that was started ages ago. That said, this extravagant ensemble is then joined by more classic notes of walnut biscuits and pipe tobacco, and even a little aniseed. An extremely exuberant nose and I do wonder, since we’re sort of in China, if there isn’t also a hint of hoisin sauce. Mouth: incredibly powerful at this otherwise rather reasonable strength, with a lovely bitterness to start, then the prunes return with more pepper too, along with heaps of bitter oranges. Black pepper then takes the upper hand, with even a few ashes. Finish: back to tobacco, dark chocolate, and of course, more pepper. Comments: it’s a bit like an old family Armagnac, something like a Ténarèze. I don’t think many malts are made with this level of sherry infusion anymore, but we’re certainly not complaining.
SGP:662 - 88 points. |
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October 13, 2025 |
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More remarkable blends and secrets (a solera session)
A solera session means we add tasting notes whenever the fancy takes us, and publish them when we feel like it too. Yeah, alright, it’s a weird concept, just one more for the pile. |
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Scallywag 'Noir' (52.8%, Douglas Laing, Speyside blended malt, 2025)
'Predominantly finished in PX' does it say on the label. One might quietly wonder whether this isn’t a cheeky rehash of the infamous Loch Dhu, 'the black whisky'. Let’s have a little look then... Colour: not quite black, rather a deep amber, I would say. Nose: this is quite the concoction, no question about that, and indeed, Loch Dhu isn’t a million miles away. Buckets of blackberry and blueberry jam, hefty spoonfuls of black Corinth raisins, then blackstrap molasses and a good pot of strong Russian tea, naturally of the darkest kind. With water: a slight earthiness emerging now. Black soils, naturally. Mouth (neat): what it immediately brings to mind is those old Macallan 'Gran Reserva' bottlings from some twenty years ago. Incredibly sherried. Back then, we did rather raise an eyebrow or two, yet these days they’re rather sought-after. O tempora, o mores. Still brimming with Corinth raisins, thick jams, stuffed dates and even a splash of Armagnac. From Ténarèze, naturally. With water: this edges closer to classic sherry, but in a sweet, rich and very thick PX-driven sort of way. Finish: long and tremendously jammy. Have we mentioned the Corinth raisins? Comments: at one point, we did fear this little fellow might become a bit suffocating, but in the end it remains vastly superior to... Loch Dhu, The Black Whisky.
SGP:641 - 85 points. |
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Timorous Beastie 'Phantom Smoke' (54%, Douglas Laing, Highland Blended Malt, 3,000 bottles, 2025)
This was '100% finished in heavily charred crocodile casks'. I believe this is entirely new, the less seasoned enthusiast will be relieved to learn that 'crocodile' refers not to the material used to build the cask (this isn’t a handbag), but to an extremely intense charring method also known as 'alligator'. Colour: white wine. Nose: fresh, very much on 'eau-de-vie', with touches of wax and apple and pear skins, then orange blossom focaccia. With water: waxes, lanolin and leatherette, plus plenty of small fruits from the garden. To be honest and fair, we’ve tried our best but are failing to locate any trace of 'phantom smoke'. It's true that we do not believe in them. Mouth (neat): this is simply excellent, crocodile char or not. A gently earthy maltiness, close to raw barley, husk, grist, and, well, you get the idea. And apples. With water: becoming increasingly 'Sutherland', which is most delightful. Waxy apples and oranges. Finish: long, fresher and crisper, more on green apple. Comments: I fear we’ve entirely missed both the 'crocodile wood' and the 'phantom smoke', but what’s certain is that this is a superb offering, well done to the wee mouse.
SGP: 551 - 87 points. |
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House of Hazelwood 33 yo (57.3%, OB, The Legacy Collection, blended grain, 291 bottles, 2024)
They say this is a 'transatlantic blended grain scotch whisky'. We’ll take their word for it, although how a Scotch can be transatlantic is anyone’s guess. Reading the label more closely, we learn there was extended maturation in virgin American oak, which may explain the claim. Fair enough! Colour: rich gold. Nose: this does indeed sit somewhere between old bourbon and mature Scottish grain. Coconut, macaroons, fresh oak and popcorn aplenty. With water: even more towards the fresh oak, joiner’s workshop, perhaps even a luthier’s atelier. Mouth (neat): white chocolate, coconut liqueur, soft nougat, charred corn on the cob and just a couple of drops of orgeat. It’s really very gentle. With water: softer still, edging into liqueur territory now, even more coconut, then milk chocolate with crushed hazelnuts. Finish: not particularly long, but the white chocolate and grated coconut come roaring back with a vengeance. Comments: rather an anti-malt, and in that sense not quite a whisky for us nasty purists, but I’ll readily admit this is absolutely delicious. One for pudding!
SGP:630 - 87 points. |
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Sutherland Blended Malt (47.9%, Thompson Bros., blended malt, Limburg 2024 exclusive, 120 bottles)
Yep, late again etc... Colour: white wine. Nose: apples, apples, apples and plums, arranged in a fresh, youthful and lively composition, reminiscent of what one finds in the charming seaside town of Brora, though with less wax. Could there be a spot of Westport in here? Mouth: we adore this honesty, this very earthy purity, full of terroir, orchard fruits and even a slight salinity. Finish: long, more on herbs now, and even saltier. Comments: don’t tell me they added seawater when no one was looking? In any case, we’re rather fond of this slightly unruly youngster in the end.
SGP:562 - 88 points. |
While we're in Limburg... |
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Blended Scotch Whisky 19 yo 2005/2025 (45.1%, Fadandel, Whisky Fair 2025, refill sherry butt, cask #91)
Oops, not for Limburg after all, but for Kolding. We’ll look up where Kolding is later. There are whisky fairs everywhere these days. And let it be known that many so-called blended Scotches now contain not a drop of grain. Colour: gold. Nose: this is very gentle, very soft, rather moderately aromatic, and actually seems to contain a fair bit of grain on the nose. So, it is a proper 'blended Scotch', my bad. Milk chocolate, dried flowers, maize and vanilla. Mouth: more pleasing on the palate, the malts begin to show, with sunflower oil, light beer, chamomile infusion, and half a spoonful of marmalade. Finish: medium in length, leaning back towards the grain. Popcorn, dried apples and delicate honeys. Comments: a blend that may be finding its feet, but it remains thoroughly good, like everything coming from Fadandel, really.
SGP:640 - 83 points. |
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Enigma 40 yo (44.5%, Cadenhead, Highland single malt, bourbon hogsheads, 636 bottles, 2025)
A Scottish malt sporting the flag of England, really? Right, rumour has it, unrefuted, mind you, that this is in fact Glenmorangie 1985. So, let’s go in search of almond, plum and vanilla pastries, shall we... Colour: gold. Nose: take a young Sauternes from a respectable little château, pour in some orange and quince juice, toss in a few shards of vanilla fudge, and you’ll be hard pressed to claim this couldn’t be Glenmorangie. Or Westport, come to that. Mouth: a rather entertaining arrival, sweet, salty, sour, bitter, we’re only missing umami. Then it opens up on beer, hops, a fairly delicate oakiness and a hint of English cigarette tobacco. Finish: fairly long, more on wood now, with apricot and peach skins. Then oolong tea, quince and a drizzle of honey. Comments: there’s absolutely nothing here to prove this isn’t Glenmorangie. A cask that’s held beautifully through four full decades.
SGP:551 - 89 points. |
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Old Perth 21 yo 'Macallan & Highland Park' (43.6%, Morrison Scotch Whisky Distillers, blended malt, oloroso sherry casks, 2025)
This is indeed a blended malt, but we’re told exactly what’s in it, even if not the proportions. It’s one of those Edrington blends that pop up here and there, though in this case with no grain whisky whatsoever. The Highland Park dates from 2004, while the Macallan was older. The marriage took place in 2015, quite by chance according to the story, and they lived happily ever after in cask for another ten years, until now. Rather touching, no? Colour: mahogany. Nose: it’s a Christmas chocolate selection box, complete with pralines, dark chocolate, gianduja, and of course, whisky truffles. Then come notes of jam—blackberry, raspberry, blackcurrant—and some marmalade, with a faint coastal touch, no doubt from the HP. Mouth: really very good, still chocolatey, with a dry sherry style that does recall younger Macallans from thirty years ago. Then those jams return, lifted by lemon juice and black pepper. Nothing to complain about here, this is excellent, with also a faint saline note, perhaps from the HP. Finish: good length, perfectly in line with the palate, with full-cocoa dark chocolate ultimately taking charge. Comments: utterly excellent and very old-school sherry, very oloroso-y indeed.
SGP:462 - 89 points. |
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Couvreur 2016 'Garden Party Edition 2024' (51%, Michel Couvreur, for Au Jardin Vouvrillon, 200 bottles)
Pure Golden Promise barley here, and an unnamed Scottish single malt, matured in first fill cream sherry in the house’s cellar in Burgundy. Logic would suggest Glen Garioch, since the label reads 'Old Meldrum', but nothing is certain. Colour: golden amber. Nose: the cream sherry—a mix of oloroso and sweet PX, sometimes with a hint of Moscatel—certainly makes itself known, but I must say the combination with Golden Promise screams old-style Macallan, here as well. On the other hand, there’s a faintly earthy note, even wet beach sand, that could suggest Glen Garioch from quite a few years ago, albeit unpeated. The abundance of walnut, naturally, calls back to the sherry. With water: water brings out touches of pine resin, oil lamp and old cellar. In Burgundy, naturally. Mouth: the sherry is assertive, but it’s a lovely cask, balanced, sitting somewhere between toffee, fudge, chestnut cream, toasted sesame oil and walnut liqueur. In the background, a few dried Corinth raisins and hints of tobacco. With water: moves toward dried fig. Classic stuff... Finish: fairly long, rather creamy, reminding me somewhat of a tobacco ice cream I once tasted long ago. Comments: I must confess this is excellent, without the overly sweet notes one might fear from something labelled 'cream'.
SGP:561 - 88 points. |
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The Bastard No.2 14 yo 2009/2024 (62%, The Whisky Dudes, blended malt, refill butt and fresh Madeira finish) 
Madeira often works rather well. Colour: full gold. Nose: an immediate blast of sulphur (from candles), then spent matches, then flintlock stone. No leek and cabbage soup let’s not exaggerate, but yes to mains gas. This takes quite a while to settle, but oddly, it doesn’t clash entirely with the Madeira. I suspect water will be crucial here. With water: it’s calmed down a little, but the sulphur remains front and centre, now mingling with MSG and Brussels sprouts. What a strange beast! Mouth (neat): again, very odd, but that oddness is oddly likeable. Right. Pepper, mustard and truffle oil. With water: devilled sauce, horseradish and toffee, green pepper and leather, cinnamon infusion, Sichuan pepper, liquorice wood... It’s really quite mad and, in any case, totally deviant. Finish: very long, very peppery, rather bitter. A huge dollop of mustard in the aftertaste, but it’s true that dry Madeiras can exhibit pronounced mustardy notes. Comments: well, we were warned, they didn’t call it 'The Bastard' for nothing. Great fun, but technically, no way this can climb to 80 points or more, it’s just too... deviant. The sulphur is omnipresent but the whole is very... fun.
SGP:472 - 79 points. |
We’re wrapping up our Solera No.1 here – Solera No.2 will be kicking off soon. |
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October 12, 2025 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
A selection of rums to ease us into winter
Let’s begin with the inevitable aperitif which, generally speaking, is anything but a true malternative. Still, it’s important to take a broader view, isn’t it? |
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Carùpano 12 yo 'Reserva Exclusiva' (40%, OB, Venezuela, +/-2024)
What, you say poor Venezuela hasn’t yet become an American state? Colour: gold. Nose: molasses honey and corn syrup, just missing the pancakes. Joking aside, it’s harmless and not at all unpleasant. Mouth: too sweet, though you do get a touch of sugarcane. One does wonder whether there’s actually any alcohol in here. A hint of orange liqueur, which is rather nice. Finish: short, sweet, but not dreadful. Comments: we’re certainly not about to rush out and buy a pallet of double-magnums, but there’s something endearingly cheerful here. For a rum bearing the words ‘reserva’ and ‘exclusiva’—always a red flag for the bargain basement—it’s doing surprisingly well.
SGP:720 - 72 points. |
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Ampov 2022/2025 (45%, OB, Cambodia, Ex-Cognac cask, batch #2)
We’d already greatly enjoyed their ex-Port version two or three weeks ago (WF 87), and Cognac ought to work even better, exerting less influence on the distillate. Colour: pale gold. Nose: perfect pot still rum, fresh, very close to the cane, delightfully grassy (hay, lawn, a bit of compost and even cow dung, which is splendid), then veering towards fermenting fruits, plums, bananas... The Cognac seems to be playing a background role, and that’s just how we like it. Mouth: oh, this is lovely! Hints of diesel and liquorice laid over a bed of bananas and olives. Well, that’s about the size of it. It’s just ever so slightly lacking in alcoholic backbone—perhaps it would shine even more brightly at 48 or 50%. But not my business, as they say. Finish: good length, saltier now, even more on olives, capers and samphire. Candied lemon in the aftertaste. Comments: a future rum star, in my very humble opinion, especially as there’s something quite rare here in the world of rum and aged spirits more broadly: a refreshing humility.
SGP:563 - 89 points. |
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Papa Rouyo 'Viraj' (52.9%, OB, LMDW Itinéraires, Guadeloupe, agricole, ex-sherry, 2025)
Let’s say it plainly, we were quite fond of the first Papa Rouyos, but we’ve never had the time or the space to follow their progression, which we rather regret. Colour: gold. Nose: very discreet, to say the least. Biscuits, amaretti, a couple of drops of maraschino, a bit of marmalade, kirsch-soaked cherries... This cherry note is intriguing, let’s see where it leads... With water: now we’re getting closer to the cane and the earth, after a tropical downpour. Mouth (neat): this is straight up cherry and pistachio cake. Or perhaps a Black Forest gâteau with a double shot of kirsch. Agreed, we’re straying a bit far from Guadeloupe. With water: once again we’re pulled back towards a slightly lemony cane, as if by an elastic band. Hints of strawberry liqueur too. Finish: medium length, leaning more towards jammy notes and pink pepper. Comments: cracking stuff, just a touch disconcerting.
SGP:651 - 84 points. |
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Planteray 15 yo 2010/2025 'Haiti' (40.5%, Planteray, for LMDW, cognac finish, cask #Rime F2-13, 258 bottles)
This from distillerie de Jeanty, though I must humbly admit I haven’t the faintest idea who or where that is. And we shan’t even ask ChatGPT, alright? As by our reckoning, about 50% of what ChatGPT says on spirits is utter nonsense. I kid you not. Colour: gold. Nose: there’s a clairin side to this, which is already enough to make us happy. Olives, carbon, rubber, rotting fruit, damp earth, rainwater... Mouth: loco-loco, with some improbable fruitiness and again those ‘rotten’ notes, but we can’t help ourselves, we love all these deviations. Let’s be clear, this isn’t Glenmorangie. Finish: long, curiously tertiary, candied fruit -> mint -> earth -> esters. Only the aftertaste is slightly less to my liking, a bit too sweet for me. Comments: never tried this sort of rather unlikely combination before, and that’s no doubt where its charm lies, here at WF Towers.
SGP:751 - 85 points. |
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HD 2014/2024 '<>H' (56.8%, The Whisky Jury, The Ester Hunter catch 1, Jamaica, refill barrel, 165 bottles) 
We’re very pleased indeed, as there are tonnes of new Hampdens around at the moment. So, it’s time to clear out last year’s releases, isn’t it? Colour: pale gold. Nose: as soon as you fill your wee tasting glass, it’s as if you’ve just opened a box of brand-new made-in-China Nikes. Simply add the requisite amount of olive oil, fresh tar and rubber. With water: curiously Chinese. It’s been nearly forty years since I first visited China, and those ‘crazy plastic’ aromas have never quite left me. Mouth (neat): extreme and magnificent. You know the drill, varnish, solvent, olives and lemons, with a surprisingly refreshing lift. With water: there must be fruit, and here it’s lemon. Finish: same again, with a vinegary saltiness taking the lead and refusing to let go. Comments: painfully good, if we may say so.
SGP:463 - 90 points. |
It’s very hard to follow a Hampden—unless it’s with another Hampden of the integral muerte variety... Especially when it’s from the same crazy brand... |
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Hampden 8 yo 2017/2025 '<>H' (67.9%, OB, Jamaica, bourbon barrel, cask 44, 229 bottles)
You’ve seen the ABV, of course we called our lawyers immediately—you can never be too careful. Dear people of Hampden, you may well become acquainted with my (not necessarily grieving) widow if anything goes awry here... Colour: gold. Nose: it’s getting tedious—yet another marvel. Peaches, quinces, acetone, seawater, diesel oil and old-school hairspray. With water: same again. Mouth (neat): Hampden, I hate you. Remember the saying, hating someone is like drinking poison and waiting for them to die—never has that been more apt. With water: utterly incredible, and at around 45% ABV it crushes you like some miserable Republican worm. Or a pitiful French bureaucrat—they’re no better. Alright, let’s calm down, these Hampdens do send you a bit mad... Finish: eh? Comments: a proper little marvel—perhaps the Zeus of spirits these days.
SGP:572 - 92 points. |
 Check the index of all rums we've tasted
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October 10, 2025 |
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Six Glen Garioch of all kinds |
Some recent releases and some old glories, to accompany and explore the frequent stylistic changes of the famous distillery from the Eastern Highlands. Granted, it’s not the first time we’ve done this, but it’s fascinating to trace the different eras of Glen Garioch. Well, let’s say we’ll give it a go...
(Visit Scotland/AI) |
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Glen Garioch 11 yo (46%, Cadenhead, Original Collection, 2025)
A double maturation in bourbon and fino, now that is intriguing, perhaps the fino will drag this distillate back to its older style, the one from the 1970s?... Colour: pale gold. Nose: there was a notion, but not quite, it doesn’t veer towards peaty smoke, rather towards sharp apple, mustard and seaweed, then increasingly towards soot and damp cardboard. Let’s say we’re halfway there, and that’s clearly the fino talking. Mouth: exactly what we were expecting, to the point where we’re wondering whether it wasn’t rather some pumped-up manzanilla instead. Seawater, lemon, mustard, cider apple, bitter orange. As almost always, the 46% strength is spot on. Finish: long, even more saline, almost on a mix of seawater and lemon juice. Comments: we’re rather fond of this, although it’s probably not terribly crowd-pleasing.
SGP:462 - 87 points. |
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Glen Garioch 11 yo 2011/2022 (53.4%, Whiskyjace, Art Edition No.7, barrel)
I was tempted to say a few words about the label, but we’re short on time (it’s morning, S.) Colour: white wine. Nose: fresh apple, limestone, a touch of paraffin, and mandarin peel. It’s fairly tight, but very pretty. For now... With water: it tightens up a little around malted barley, paraffin and candle wax. Amen. Mouth (neat): like the Cadenhead, sans the fino. Very lemony, fresh, taut, with a fine burst of sauvignon blanc in full flow, as in a Sancerre. With water: we remain in the same territory, although once again the barley peeks through. The lemon holds its ground, however. Finish: long, fresh, on apple, lemon and cereals. Comments: a bit like a Lowland, but with more body. In any case, we’re close to the distillate here, and we love that. A lot.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
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Glen Garioch 11 yo 2011/2023 (53.2% Hidden Spirits for Rudder, Japan, cask #GG1123, 1st fill bourbon barrel, 267 bottles)
Colour: very pale white wine. Nose: very close to the previous one, only this time seemingly stripped of any cask influence, and so we’re on apple, wax and lemon zest, but in infinitesimal amounts. With water: chalk, grist and soot. Sounds like the name of a 1965 American folk trio. Mouth (neat): is it a little newmakey? Probably, there’s eau-de-vie here, notably kirsch and pear, along with grass and limoncello. My only issue is that I rather like this ultra-natural style. With water: once again it tightens up on apple peel and citrus rind over a bed of fresh malt. Perhaps a little elementary at this stage. Finish: long, narrow, compact, on grass and barley. It’s almost a regression. Comments: malt in its natural state, tailor-made for Hobbes and Rousseau.
SGP:451 - 86 points. |
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Glengarioch 13 yo 2011/2025 (52.5%, James Eadie, Distilleries of Great Britain and Ireland, 1st fill European oak Oloroso finish, cask #374456, 592 bottles)
I rather like their dainty touch of spelling Glen Garioch as one word. Colour: amber. Nose: the sherry is obvious, of course, and comes laden with heaps of tobacco and old ashes from an old pipe. Plenty of mustard, oregano, sage and Maggi too, over a slice of smoked ham. With water: honey! Do you hear that? Honey! Chestnut honey, no less! Our favourite honey... Mouth (neat): dry again, on a mix of leather, more mustard, more lemon, more tobacco, and walnut wine (Nusswasser). With water: not much movement now, save for the arrival of Seville oranges and turmeric, but all in measured doses. Finish: just a tad rounder and softer, no doubt the influence of that very chestnut honey. Comments: of course it’s very good, we were expecting no less.
SGP:461 - 87 points. |
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Glen Garioch 15 yo 2010/2025 (53.3%, Wu Dram Clan, for Whisky Live Hamburg, oloroso sherry butt, cask #5611, 191 bottles)
By purest chance, just as we’ll be putting this tasting note online, we’ll be en route to Whisky Live Hamburg via Deutsche Bahn. See you there? Colour: gold. Nose: perhaps it’s due to a few extra years, but here we’re decidedly closer to the ground, to the earth—both the acidic Scottish soil and that chalky albariza of Jerez. There’s also quite a bit of salted butter caramel, walnut biscuits, ultra-dried raisins forgotten in an old iron tin, and dried jujubes... In short, it’s complex, certainly broader than the previous ones. With water: the water awakens a touch of new leather and tobacco but also amplifies the dried fruits, very much like an apéritif mix. Which is jolly convenient... Mouth (neat): a little flint at first, then it unrolls, starting on bitter orange, moving through various dried fruits, notably thin apple slices and of course sultanas and goji berries, then drifting towards pepper and cardamom. With water: that flinty edge becomes even more pronounced, yet we’re not into the sulphur, and it makes a rather lovely counterpoint to the dried fruits queueing up at the door. Figs, raisins, longans, dates and so on. Finish: long, curiously massive and yet balanced, with the pepper gradually taking control, followed by more bitter orange lingering in the aftertaste. Comments: the way the pepper arrives unexpectedly in the dying moments is quite something. Fortunately, we’re rather fond of pepper.
SGP:562 - 90 points. |
And this little one from days gone by, we did more or less promise it to you, if I’m not mistaken... |
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Glen Garioch 29 yo 1968 (55.4%, OB, for the US, Distillery Archive, hogshead, cask #617, +/-1997)
Some of the greatest malt whiskies in the world ended up in this official series which, it must be said, now seems rather unfairly forgotten. To be fair, many of these bottles had more sherry than actual bottles of sherry. Truly... Colour: mahogany. Nose: the union of peat and sherry, in the manner of certain legendary Laphroaigs. A sublime medley of spices and dried fruits, which we shan’t list here, plus mentholated liquorice and high-grade tar. We’ll stop there for now, but the score may speak volumes. With water: oh, those varnishes, those paints, that turpentine, that linseed oil! Mouth (neat): these Glen Gariochs from the late 1960s to the mid-1970s rank among the greatest peated malts in the world. Here, it’s chocolate locked in a duel with smoke, underpinned by a sublime dryness that leads, naturally, to deeply infused aged walnut liqueur. The bitterness is magnificent. With water: the citrus leaps from the glass like frogs from a pond, especially blood oranges and bergamots. Finish: very long, now utterly sublime, salted butter, crème brûlée, old walnuts, fir honey, sweet paprika, ashes... Comments: none, forgive me.
SGP:464 - 93 points. |
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October 9, 2025 |
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WF's Little Duos, today Glen Moray 10 yo
Just a tequila-finished OB, followed by an IB that should take a very different path. |
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Glen Moray 10 yo 2014/2024 'Tequila Cask Finish' (55.2%, OB, Warehouse 1)
Tequila is now among those rather curious new finishes being imposed upon our dear malt whiskies, though to be fair, if even His Majesty Lagavulin has done it, then they’re all allowed a go, aren’t they. Naturally, we jest, amigo—agave might well lend a kick to younger Speysiders that may not otherwise be terribly distinctive... Colour: gold. Nose: to be honest, we remain firmly in malt territory, with green apple, beer, and indeed some grapefruit and pink pepper, before discreet whiffs of mezcal begin to emerge. It’s no condor of the Andes just yet, but it’s quite pleasant. Yep, we do know where the Andes are... With water: the water seems to bring the malt forward and tone down the tequila’s impact. Well, fancy that. Mouth (neat): fairly brutal on the palate, with plenty of lime peel and a good dose of green pepper, but also, indeed, an earthy, medicinal side that’s rather unusual. The tequila, perhaps? With water: the whisky turns extremely cloudy, almost like pastis, but the whole remains quite coherent, now bolstered by additional citrus, salt, and... peat. Hold on... Finish: long, very limey, bordering on a turbocharged margarita. Comments: honestly, it’s fun, it’s well made, and the two spirits do manage to tango quite nicely together... Mexican tango.
SGP:551 - 84 points. |
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Glen Moray 10 yo 2014/2025 (57.1%, Decadent Drams, Decadent Drinks, 2nd fill sherry hogshead, 297 bottles)
Colour: amber. Nose: at first, a fairly classic sherry, with those touches of young bourbon one sometimes finds in certain ex-sherries, especially a bit of fresh wood varnish, but then come less usual notes such as grilled aubergines and green pepper, and perhaps even black olives (a very small black olive). In short, a highly amusing and rather surprising Mediterranean twist. With water: coal tar and new rubber! And compost. All very intriguing and thoroughly lovely. Mouth (neat): a tad aggressive, peppery, even spicy, yet full of charm and anything but boring. We always enjoy this sort of thing. With water: still cohesive. Salted butter caramel with black pepper, plus a few strands of tobacco that might have wafted from your unfiltered Gauloise. Finish: very long, bringing in green walnuts and old ones too. More salt in the aftertaste, some amaro, and even a return of that varnishy, walnut-stain-like character. Comments: a slightly mad Glen Moray, certainly deviant, but here ‘deviant’ rather seems to amount to an obvious competitive edge (what?) We love it.
SGP:462 - 89 points. |
Indeed, we’re absolutely loving this slightly mad young Glen Moray, so much so that Decadent Drinks even earned themselves a ticket for another round… |
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Glen Moray 31 yo 1990-1991-1992/2025 (50.5%, WhiskyLand Chapter Seventeen, Decadent Drinks, refill hogsheads, 223 bottles, 2025)
A multivintage in the style they so enjoy producing, with a charming, self-explanatory label that leaves little doubt as to what’s inside. Colour: full gold. Nose: a world of honeyed delights and ripe orchard fruits, all of them very mature. A dash of lemon juice has been drizzled over the whole to lend a most becoming liveliness. With water: a touch more tension emerges, ever so slightly herbal, along with three or four sultanas and a tiny profiterole. Mouth (neat): mirrors the nose. One simply feels compelled to add that it’s very good. With water: honestly, just the same, ripe apples, plums, soft honeys, hints of fresh hay and herbal infusions, plus a wee dash of yellow chartreuse and verbena. A whisper of mint and liquorice too. Finish: this is where some sherry makes itself more apparent, particularly through notes of leather, walnuts and tobacco, though it all remains gentle and well-mannered. A touch of tannin in the aftertaste. Comments: tasted blind, you might almost mistake this for an official Glenlivet 30-year-old. In truth, it’s the polar opposite of the 10-year-old above and, at times, we had them both at the same score.
SGP:561 - 90 points. |
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October 8, 2025 |
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WF's Little Duos, today indie Cardhu
We were mainly keen to revisit a Cardhu from Cadenhead’s that we gave a really poor rating to about… fifteen years ago. Independently bottled Cardhus are rare enough to warrant this sort of attempt at rehabilitation (right). But first, a more recent expression, also independently bottled. |
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Cardhu 10 yo 2013/2023 (48.4%, Douglas Laing, Old Particular, refill hogshead, cask #DL18175, 367 bottles)
Frankly, this wee taster doesn’t quite know what to expect here, but let’s trust that if DL deemed it worthy of single cask status, they must have had a good reason, so let’s see... Colour: very pale white wine. Nose: if you’re partial to Williams pear eau-de-vie, this one’s squarely for you. And thus, very much for me too, as I’m awfully fond of Williams pear. Beyond that, we find a little custard, vanilla fudge, and sugarcane syrup. Mouth: it’s a touch firmer on the palate, more tutti-frutti as it were, but also sweeter, evoking candied apples and those Haribo jellybeans we do mention from time to time. Other than that, the cask appears to have been even lazier than Gontcharov’s Oblomov. Finish: medium in length, very clean, with malt, apple and lemon all making a fine return. Comments: we’re really quite close to certain Glenfiddichs here. Very pretty stuff, though one has to be comfortable with this rather ‘immature’ style. As for me, I’m quite taken.
SGP:641 - 85 points. |
And so, this infamous Cadenhead that deserves a second chance... |
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Cardhu (Cardow) 13 yo 1987/2000 (56.9%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 312 bottles)
With a bit more bottle ageing than the last time... Colour: straw. Nose: well now, we’re back in the nudist territory of that DL style, all apple and pear spirit, though this one’s rather more on the herbal side, with amusing whiffs of gherkin and even curly kale, plus some flint and freshly broken stones. With water: the stones come to the fore, the rest retreating politely. Mouth (neat): blimey, this has blossomed into something lovely, extremely lively and taut, very sharp, bursting with green apples and a few bitter oranges and lemons, then some rather under-ripe berries. With water: excellent! A veritable ode to bottle ageing. Limoncello, orange juice, green apple liqueur, fir honey, chalk. Finish: similar, though a notch more herbal. Hints of absinthe and green pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: well, there we are then!
SGP:561 - 87 points. |
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October 7, 2025 |
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Three Glenlivet plus two, including a prestigious last-minute guest
Three independents from Signatory and one official bottling, does that sound good to you? And how about we finish off with the oldest single malt in the world? |
Paul Nash, Battle of Britain, 1941, oil paint on
canvas (IWM Non-Commercial Licence) |
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Speyside (GL) 16 yo ‘Edition 7’ (57.1%, Signatory Vintage, 100 Proof, 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Hogshead, 2024)
Nothing proves it’s Glenlivet but it’s hard to imagine what else it could be. Colour: amber. Nose: a proper old-school sherry, all about walnut cake and bone-dry raisins, with a lovely spoonful of orange marmalade thrown in for good measure. With water: faint touches of damp forest floor and a dab of menthol. Mouth (neat): rather more assertive and self-assured than the nose would suggest, though it does lean on the rustic side. Marmalade, chocolate and toffee jostling for attention. With water: here come hints of ginger, along with a creamy swirl of pistachio and almond custard. Finish: fairly long, staying its course without major deviation. Still some ginger, now with a good crack of black pepper. Comments: very good, though it does have a somewhat unrefined edge. Ideal for the chrome hipflask emblazoned with the Confederate flag and the Harley-Davidson logo.
SGP:451 - 83 points. |
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Speyside (GL) 16 yo ‘Edition 8’ (57.1%, Signatory Vintage, 100 Proof, 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Hogshead, 2025)
Colour: amber. Nose: this one feels tighter, more chocolatey yet also more refined, with a noticeably richer Armagnac-soaked prune character. We’re preferring this so far. With water: it aligns with the previous in overall style, just with a slightly greener, more herbaceous touch. Mouth (neat): clearly our favourite, there’s more wattage, more verve, a lovely burst of pink pepper, oranges, toasted almonds… With water: no question, this one pulls ahead of Edition 7, more citrus-led with a good crackle of pepper and even a faint earthy rootiness coming through. Finish: long, lifted by zest and elegantly bitter peppers. Comments: it still carries a rustic edge, mind you, but more the kind of rustic you’d find in a stainless-steel hipflask from the MoMA design shop.
SGP:461 - 86 points. |
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Glenlivet 28 yo 1976/2005 (57.5%, Signatory Vintage, Cask Strength Collection, refill but, cask #4310, 384 bottles)
We’ll admit it, we weren’t especially taken with these Glenlivet batches back in the day, but a bit of time in bottle can work wonders. Mind you, we had been far more impressed by other Glenlivet casks from S.V. Colour: white wine. Nose: the butt was clearly on the shy side, here we’re leaning more towards cider apples and gooseberries, with a little porridge and honeyed oat gruel in the background. This isn’t hard rock, nor is it free jazz. With water: it stays soft and simple, bringing to mind tinned greengages. Mouth (neat): very lively, all on green apples and green pepper. Quite the surprise. With water: a touch of almond milk appears, but it remains surprisingly narrow and perhaps not immensely inspired. Finish: same story, just a bit of lemon and green apple stepping in to save the day. Comments: let’s not go overboard, it’s still really good, but believe it or not, we find the recent ‘100 Proof’ editions superior.
SGP:461 - 82 points. |
Let’s move on to the official bottling, after a long break due to the drop in bottling strength, not always the easiest to manage in a lineup... |
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Glenlivet 25 yo (43%, OB, The Sample Room Collection, PX & cognac, +/-2023)
A finish in first-fill Pedro Ximénez Sherry and ex-Cognac casks made from oak from the Tronçais forest, top-notch wood! Colour: deep gold. Nose: it’s really all on patchouli and dried figs at first, then moves swiftly into plum tart dusted with cinnamon, followed by chestnut honey subtly laced with black pepper. I must say I’m rather fond of this nose, PX and Cognac or not. A beautifully crafted aromatic profile, very classy indeed. Mouth: same impression, this is very well put together, elegant and reasonably full of flavours of cake, honey and soft spices, with cinnamon leading the pack. Lovely touches of marzipan-stuffed dates and then vine peach jam, which may well be the Cognac speaking. Finish: not hugely long at this strength, but still balanced, drifting more towards chocolate filled with raisins. Comments: I really like this very elegant, gentle and flavourful Glenlivet, certainly more so than the old 25 ‘XXV’ from a good ten years ago.
SGP:541 - 88 points. |
A last-minute addition: the new oldest single malt in the world, and therefore, inevitably, the oldest Glenlivet. This new baby – though it's becoming rather difficult to call this sort of malt a 'baby' – has knocked last year’s 84-year-old Macallan off the top spot as the oldest single malt ever bottled. For the record, we never got to taste the latter. Letting people taste something like this is clearly a bold move, especially when it's being served to commentators who likely won’t be buying it, and who therefore won’t be going through the usual mental and/or vocal process of justifying their purchase decision. Perhaps it’s this kind of attitude that sets the braver houses apart from the less daring ones, or from those with less confidence in their products, or who prefer to put all their energy and budget into pedestalising said products. You know, the way many used to do back in 2015... Anyway, enough rambling. Hats off and thanks to G&M for letting us taste their most extraordinary whiskies, truly a class act... |
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Glenlivet 85 yo 1940/2025 'Artistry in Oak' (43.7%, Gordon & MacPhail, first fill American oak transport sherry butt, cask #336, 125 bottles)
This butt was part of a small batch of former transport casks that made several trips back and forth between Jerez and Bristol before being decommissioned and falling into the hands of Gordon & MacPhail, who had them filled at the Glenlivet distillery in early February 1940, just five months after the start of WWII for the United Kingdom (and France). Some of these casks have already been bottled, notably at 70 years of age (WF 91) and 80 years (WF 93). There could be two or three left following this brand-new 85-year-old, and my own little theory is that we might eventually see a 90-year-old, maybe even a 95, and who knows, perhaps a 100. Or perhaps not... I do hope to be around to taste that potential 100-year-old, is it possible to sign up already? Now, the usual doomsayers will claim that at such an age, whisky has long since passed its prime. In my experience, that’s often true – but not with Gordon & MacPhail. Proof? If proof were needed, we actually preferred the 80-year-old to the 70. Naturally, the casks are carefully monitored, and in any case, any malt becoming too fragile or overly tannic would be cast aside without hesitation for a release of this stature. So, shall we taste?
< (I suppose the bottle and its container can then be used as the Olympic torch for Los Angeles 2028) |
Colour: deep gold. This relatively light hue is already, in itself, an excellent sign. Nose: the first clue arrives instantly, this cask housed several generations of sherry and has evidently rid itself, at least in part, of its most assertive tannins. The result is immediate notes of sweet almonds and fresh oil paint of great beauty. Think ex-Matisse studio, or better still, Paul Nash – the vintage fits. Then come marmalades and even fresh oranges, leading us to where all great aged spirits eventually converge: dried apricots, peaches in syrup, and old Sauternes, the whole accentuated by just a discreet flick of crème de menthe and fir bud liqueur. From the Vosges, naturally. And a whisper of liquorice. The freshness is astonishing, it’s almost a sprightly 85-year-old gentleman, the Harrison Ford of single malt. In truth, this nose is superb regardless of age; after all, 'age is just a number', isn’t it? |
Cask #336. You can clearly read the
marque 'Bertola Xeres', which you can
still find today at Diez-Mérito. |
Mouth: once again, the freshness is remarkable. You do feel the age, please don’t put words in my mouth, age absolutely matters here. It’s just that there’s no fatigue, no weariness, no drying out, as is sometimes the case. Time, indeed, but without the ravages. Apple tart, candied oranges, reduced-sugar marmalade (really), a touch of English pipe tobacco, quince liqueur, pollen and honey, again that trace of fir liqueur, and even, would you believe, some perfectly ripe fresh cherries. That’s perhaps the most surprising and frankly extraordinary part. Finish: rather long, and now even more complex, with the emergence of various teas and herbal infusions, which might be responsible for the very faintest hint of tannin that, however, never becomes drying, not even in the slightest. And just the tiniest touches of cocoa and thyme in the aftertaste. Comments: to be honest, one almost doesn’t feel like assigning a score to this genuine work of art, but then again, that’s what we do. Still, we shall allow ourselves to include a very modest emotional factor in this final tally.
SGP:561 - 95 points. |
At this rate, it’s not beyond the realm of possibility that a 100-year-old — and I swear this is pure speculation on my part, because I haven’t the slightest hint of any information about the possibility of a 100-year-old in 2040 — might well score 100 points. At that point, we could shut down Whiskyfun for good… assuming that miserable little website is still around by then. After all, the Malt Maniacs' motto was, quite fittingly, ‘Quaestio Aqua Vitae Perfectum Per Ardua Ad Nauseam’. |
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October 6, 2025 |
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Thirteen Craigellachie, backwards |
What I mean by that is that we’ll start by tasting a very old official bottling that’s relatively recent, then we’ll add a few indies that are noticeably younger and should be inevitably, or not, more lively and spirited. Well, we’ll see...
Craigellachie + AI |
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Craigellachie 37 yo (46.75%, OB, Small Batch, 3,012 bottles, 2022)
Very amusing, the tasting notes on the label start with 'tarte tatin' and 'crème anglaise', but fear not, the remainder is in English. Mind you, we suspect this is going to be very good... Colour: straw, so a surprisingly pale hue. Nose: superb right from the off, no doubt thanks to a cask that’s kept itself to itself all these years. It's chiefly floral, led by blooming honeysuckle in full swing, then come little pink plums and absolutely glorious honeyed touches. Immense elegance, all the more so as arrive dainty notes of ancient apricots from the South Tyrol, in the style of Master Vittorio Gianni Capovilla. I’m barely exaggerating. Splendid almonds too. Wow. Mouth: superlative, lifted, not tired in the slightest, the very model of great distillate aged long and slow in a cask that’s really done nothing but hold it. Gorgeous orchard fruits, still plenty of flowers, and honey from meadows across several continents, as well as, since we must, a wee slice of tarte tatin. As for the crème anglaise, we’re still looking... Finish: probably not very long, but the arrival of small citrus notes ensures this whole lovely construction stays firmly on track. In the aftertaste, a touch of vanilla rice pudding. There you are. Comments: sheer beauty, a tribute to the 'slow whiskies'. No rush!
SGP:651 - 92 points. |
A short break before the indies, which are inevitably a bit disadvantaged after that real gem... … … … Right then, let’s go, and at random. |
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Craigellachie-Glenlivet 18 yo 2006/2025 (46%, Cadenhead, Original Collection, refill oloroso hogsheads)
Colour: gold. Nose: we had a bit of a struggle with a Port-matured version two or three years back, but this one seems rather charming, much more traditional, reasonably firm and textured on the nose before branching off into bitter orange, proper marmalade, and fir tree honey with the faintest mentholated breeze. A few currants and a whisper of soap, though nothing remotely troublesome. Then a hint of pumpernickel and battelman—let us call that its Germanic leanings. Mouth: cracking acidity, lemons, slightly unripe grapes, gooseberries... And considerably less sherry than expected. Lovely tension, sprightly, riding above the distillate’s rather oily backbone. Adorable. Finish: very good length, with a taut character that holds steady. Comments: an absolutely delightful wee bottle, perky and refreshing in every possible way.
SGP:661 - 87 points. |
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Craigellachie 2015/2024 (48.1%, Cask Masters, 1st fill Larose-Trintaudon barrique, cask #166, 320 bottles)
Larose-Trintaudon is a vast cru bourgeois from the Médoc (over 200 hectares), working roughly half Cabernet and half Merlot. Let’s see if that shows... Colour: full gold. Nose: yes, the wine influence is evident, especially after the splendid little beasts we've just tasted. Cherries, raspberries, all resting on a fruity malt, with some blood orange notes layered over the top. Frankly, it’s not bad at all. Mouth: the wine influence is quite pronounced here, no doubt we’re well within winesky territory, but again, it’s not unpleasant. A light touch of strawberry jam, atop some cherry-flavoured Belgian beer (Kriek). Finish: medium in length, carrying the same notes through. Comments: like a tune one doesn’t care for much, but played very well indeed. In other words, those who enjoy red wine-finished malt—and I gather there are more of them each day—should like this more than I do. I'll add that we've also just sampled some other excellent malts from this distinguished company at the Whisky Show in London. A bit more crowd-pleasing...
SGP:641 - 83 points. |
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Craigellachie 11 yo 2012/2023 (52.9%, Tri Carragh, palo cortado barrique, 298 bottles)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: palo cortado works a treat, and here’s yet another fine example, with a taut and lively Craigellachie, very malty, textured on the nose, almost waxy, and packed with lemon marmalade and damp earth. With water: out comes the paraffin, and even more moist earth. Mouth (neat): excellent! Fat, oily, dry, showing green walnut, pink grapefruit and bitter orange. With water: touches of honey rounding things out, though kept in check. Some lovely pepper building in... Finish: and here comes more pepper, top-grade stuff, along with some ale. Andalusian ale, naturally. Comments: Cadenhead-level quality, so excellent. In my humble opinion, as ever...
SGP:561 - 87 points. |
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Craigellachie 15 yo 2009/2024 (54.2%, Whisky Age, ex-Caol Ila hogshead, cask #305228, 283 bottles)
Right, we’re not the world’s biggest fans of in-cask blending in general, but we do adore Caol Ila, so perhaps... Colour: white wine. Nose: now, this is a lovely blen... single malt, with the distinct impact of both components, though let’s say they’re dancing the tango with grace. It seems the fattiness of Craigellachie marries well with the fresh peat from Caol Ila. With water: no idea what proportion of CI is in there, perhaps 10%? But as usual, the peated malt takes the upper hand. Mouth (neat): let’s call it peated pear. The Islay influence is even stronger here than on the nose. We like it. With water: it becomes very peaty, slightly reminiscent of, say, peated Benriach. Apple and ashes. Finish: same story. Comments: a very lovely blende... single malt, fresh, though quite disorienting if you’re looking for clear markers. Luckily our friends announce the manoeuvre on the label!
SGP:564 - 84 points. |
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Craigellachie 13 yo 2009/2023 (51.5%, DramCatcher, hogshead, cask #5005)
Colour: straw. Nose: I think we may have overlooked Craigellachie’s distillate all these years—it’s really quite beautiful, always oily, always highly textured on the nose (yes, that is possible). Aromatically it leans towards barley and apple. No issues whatsoever, quite the opposite. With water: same again, one might say it’s like a great beer, just distilled. Not BrewDog... Mouth (neat): very straightforward, still oily, malty, with orchard fruits and a touch of sourdough. It’s certainly more textured than its more famous neighbour. With water: it shifts toward more softness, but the profile stays firmly in place. Finish: long, still oily, though gentler, and almost a little sweet. Comments: all natural, very lovely, very simple, very very good.
SGP:651 - 86 points. |
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Craigellachie 16 yo 2009/2025 (55.2%, Signatory Vintage, Cask Strength Collection, 1st fill Madeira hogshead finish, cask #205, 303 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: the very faint mustardy touch from the Madeira adds nicely to the distillate’s fattiness, with an increasingly earthy edge that’s also typical of Craigellachie. Notes of metal polish and dried flowers in the potpourri vein. With water: damp floors after the first rain, a flower vase, and an old teapot. Really! Mouth (neat): far more individuality than on the nose, with devilled sauce, kumquats (yes), and paprika... With water: quite the oddball, and it’s one that opens your chakras. Rock sugar, fat, goulash, pepper, honey... Finish: same again, and it goes on. Comments: there’s absolutely nothing routine about this wee thing, and that’s precisely its strength.
SGP:562 - 86 points. |
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Craigellachie 12 yo 2013/2025 (60.5%, Lady of the Glen, refill oloroso butt + oloroso finish, cask #300805, 332 bottles)
I’ve just noticed the distinguished owners are calling this a ‘Scottish’ whisky rather than a ‘Scotch’ whisky. I know, a rather pointless observation... Colour: amber. Nose: double oloroso, no less! So here we have more walnut cake and a healthy dose of Nescafé. Behind that, nargileh tobacco and fresh leather—think a stopover in Turkey during a Mediterranean cruise. Yup. With water: out comes the damp earth, yet again. Mouth (neat): it’s very creamy, it’s very rich, it’s very good, and it’s already deep into Christmas spices, along with a hefty pour of honey. For once, we’re early... With water: now it’s excellent, rich, jammy, thick, with bags of candied fruits and just the lightest touches of cedarwood and fir. Finish: same again, but with a lovely reappearance of citrus, which is fantastic. Comments: rather brilliant, this double oloroso.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
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Craigellachie 16 yo 2008/2024 (66.7%, Milroy's Vintage Sherry Reserve, second-fill sherry butt, cask #80900934)
Right then, did you catch the ABV? Another attempted assassination of a poor whisky blogger, it’s going to cost them dearly. We’ll be alerting Interpol forthwith. And possibly Mossad and the FSB. Unless... Colour: deep amber. Nose: probably thanks to the strength, we’re more in young bourbon territory. No complaints there, though there’s quite a bit of pencil shavings and corn syrup for now. The only cure, with water: an onslaught of chocolate in every form imaginable. Mouth (neat): seems excellent. The key word being ‘seems’. Pepper, candied oranges, pepper, candied oranges, pepper... right, we’re going in circles. So, with water: civilisation at last. In fact, it’s excellent, rich and oily once again, but with a kind of lift brought in by notes of oranges and all manner of citruses. That said, we’re still hovering close to the idea of a very, very high-quality young bourbon. So much for ‘sherry’. Finish: same vibe, a tart of fig, orange and caramel. Or something along those lines. More black pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: a bit of a mad thing, honestly. But then, we’re a bit mad ourselves, aren’t we.
SGP:651 - 89 points. |
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Craigellachie 20 yo 2005/2025 (58.3%, Decadent Drams, Decadent Drinks, refill hogshead + 1st fill sherry, 251 bottles)
A toolbox on the label, that rather sets the tone, doesn’t it. Colour: deep gold. Nose: fairly elegant, still oily on the nose, but showing a touch of austerity. Scones, crème de menthe, beeswax, a fresh pack of Camels, and indeed a trace of engine oil. With water: more earth and potting soil coming through. Mouth (neat): not far at all from that excellent Milroy’s, just a tad spicier, but ultimately less extreme. With water: rather high-end, jammy, and full-on with Christmas spices. Yes, we're early, but that’s entirely Decadent Drinks’ fault. We'll punish them accordingly as soon as the opportunity arises. Finish: long, rather rich and spicy. Very peppery fruitcake. Comments: top-tier stuff once again from DD. It’s just that we didn’t find any proper toolbox notes, despite our best efforts...
SGP:651 - 89 points. |
Perhaps just one last one, as we’re already at 10 Craigellachiesand we mustn’t go overboard... |
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Craigellachie 16 yo 2008/2024 (59.9%, Alambic Classique, Special Vintage Selection, sherry cask, cask #24021, 192 bottles)
To be perfectly honest, one never really knows what things like ‘Special Vintage Selection’ are meant to signify, but it’s part of the game and rather charming. So here is our ultra-exquisitely selected tasting note for this one. Colour: gold. Nose: oh, this is lovely, the sherry cask was lovely, and the lovely fat and oily Craigellachie distillate is shining through beautifully. Lovely breads, brioches, panettones, sesame oil, sunflower oil, peanut butter and damp earth. Splendid. With water: simply top class. Mouth (neat): bang, the citrus leaps out at you, and we’re not complaining. Everything here is spot on. With water: impressive stuff. Figs and Earl Grey. Finish: yes. Comments: to keep being honest, well, we try, the sherry played only a tiny role here, and we’re not sorry about that. The labels may look like they were designed in Quark Xpress circa 1998, but this is just a very, very excellent Craigellachie. Aus Deutschland, natürlich.
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
Craigellachie really is the best whisky in its town these days, without the slightest shadow of a doubt. Right then, see you tomorrow. Wait, wait, wait — actually, here are some more... |
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Craigellachie 16 yo 2007/2023 (53.1%, Maltbarn, bourbon cask, 333 bottles)
Always those labels we’ve loved so much. Honestly, Maltbarn/Martin ought to issue numbered posters of them and sell them at a premium, framed in brushed aluminium. We’d like number 1/10,000, please. Colour: gold. Nose: just forget it, pure Craigellachie, all on fat, banana, vanilla, apple, sunflower oil, peanut butter, stalks and salted butter caramel. With water: same again. Mouth (neat): we could simply copy and paste what we wrote about the nose, and in fact, we shall, with no regret nor shame. Pure Craigellachie, all on fat, banana, vanilla, apple, sunflower oil, peanut butter, stalks and salted butter caramel. With water: ditto. Finish: ditto. Malt. Comments: but how good is this!
SGP:551 - 89 points. |
Right, I promise you this is the last Craigellachie of the year... Unless a new super-old official bottling happens to cross our humble path before Christmas. |
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Craigellachie 10 yo 2014/2024 (58.9%, James Eadie, cask finish, refill PX hogshead finish, cask #373077, 267 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: this is more on earthiness, curiously tighter and tenser than expected for a PX finish, narrower too, though the strength is certainly up there. So let’s add some water: still earthy, perhaps also showing some eau-de-vie of small berries, even a touch of bison grass vodka—Polish, of course. By the way, those old bottles of Zúubrówka from the 1970s and 80s have become quite splendid it seems, it just took patience. Ha. Mouth (neat): straight to the point, it bursts with orange zest and pink pepper, to the point where we’re wondering where all this is coming from. With water: just simple, just lovely—provided you don’t add too much water, as it’s not the strongest swimmer. Finish: oranges, green pepper, and so on. Comments: a faint Glen Wodka vibe perhaps, but all of this is very well done, just as we expected. In fact, we love it.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
This time, we’re really stopping. See you, stay tuned. |
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October 5, 2025 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
Just a few more rums
Not quite the year-end new releases yet, but they won’t be long coming!
At Burdekin in Australia (Rumporter) |
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Ron Quorhum QRM 'Sistema Solera 15' (40%, OB, Dominican Republic, +/-2025)
The ‘30 Aniversario Solera’ had been rather underwhelming last Sunday (WF 49) but perhaps we’ll be more fortunate with this ‘15’. Just a gentle reminder that the term ‘solera’ is used exceedingly liberally in the world of rum and generally has precious little to do with the genuine soleras of Jerez, for instance. Broadly speaking, anything involving fractional or ‘perpetual’ filling of casks tends to be dubbed solera. Colour: gold. One might applaud the relatively pale hue which could suggest minimal caramel colouring. Nose: well, this isn’t bad at all, rather fresh, on sugarcane with toasted hazelnuts, honey, vanilla, banana cake... Mouth: not a tidal wave of sugar, although it is fairly sweet, edging somewhat towards the style of a certain well-known Cuban brand. Nicely balanced, toasty again, honeyed, lightly burnt. It’s genuinely not unpleasant, nor even overly light. Finish: rather short yet still balanced, with pronounced notes of sugarcane honey. Comments: a thousand times better than the ‘30’, in my humble opinion, though still not quite Foursquare or Hampden (etc.)
GP:640 - 75 points. |
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XM 12 yo 'Special' (40%, OB, Guyana, +/-2024)
A blend of rums from DDL/El Dorado that we had already tasted some ten years ago and found decent (WF 76) if decidedly sweet. Let’s see whether this one contains a generous helping of rums ‘sweetened at birth’. Colour: deep gold. Nose: much drier than expected, more toasted, with walnut cake and even roasted pecans, dried apricots, and a very faint maritime side, blending liquorice with seaweed. And why not? Mouth: ouch; there’s almost as much sugar as in the QRM, although here it’s more counterbalanced by the roasted nuts. A little tobacco and above all some coffee liqueur. The pecan pie also makes a comeback. The texture is rather narrow, yet not weak. Finish: long, more on orange liqueur and molasses honey. Liquorice returns in the aftertaste. Comments: it’s still good, shame the sweetness is so palpable on the palate.
SGP:651 - 78 points. |
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Burdekin 'Vintage Cane Spirit' (40%, OB, Australia, +/-2025)
Straight from the foot of Mt Elliot in the Bowling Green National Park, since 2020, this very rum was made from local canes and aged in ex-PX casks. I’ve no idea whether that PX was Australian too, though it’s quite possible given several estates seem to be cultivating it locally. Colour: pale gold. Nose: this is bursting with sugarcane, brimming with freshness, not in the least masked by the PX. Lovely herbal touches (oregano, sage), with a beautiful development on citrus fruits and the faintest tarry hints that round things out most elegantly. A light curry note too, which is absolutely charming. Mouth: it’s quite remarkable how much the richness of the whole manages to offset the modest bottling strength. Orange and fig liqueur, curry, pink pepper, exotic honeys, and a little sage once again. Very, very good. Finish: granted, not the longest, but rather oily, still fresh, with that utterly adorable sweet orange curry returning in the aftertaste. Comments: a lovely surprise, truly excellent.
SGP:651 - 86 points. |
So, we're going to taste the cask strength version. By the way, as the excellent Mr Singh from London told us last weekend, British Navy rums certainly included Guyanese, Barbadian or Jamaican rums – but also Australian ones. |
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Burdekin 'Coral Sea Strength' (54%, OB, Australia, 600 bottles, +/-2024)
Still from northern Queensland, made from the 2024 harvest in the ‘agricole’ style. But whoops, it’s white – I’d meant to save the white rums for later. But since we’re here... Colour: white. Nose: touches of diesel fumes and rubber right at first, then pear, sugarcane juice, coriander seeds, damp earth and, above all, masses of fresh hay. Absolute hay galore. Mouth: even better on the palate, which is often the case with whites, especially agricoles, in fairness. Notes of ultra-ripe pineapple, solvent (hurray), dill, and then a few drops of brine, the kind you get from ex-olive jars. That’s a superb marker, no question. With water: no major changes, just a little more herbal, even edging towards pickled gherkins. Finish: rather long, drifting further into salinity and pickled fruit. Comments: no reason to score it differently from the previous one, it’s superb. That said, we’re quite looking forward to the next rugby match between Australia and France...
SGP:561 - 86 points. |
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Foursquare 11 yo 2009/2022 (64.4%, The Colours of Rum, Barbados, N°9, bourbon cask, cask #22, 282 bottles)
And who’s behind again? Whiskyfun! This familiar single blend of pot still and column spent 8 years ageing under the tropics, the rest somewhere in the wilder reaches of Western Europe. Colour: gold. Nose: well of course, at this strength, and with the London Whisky Show looming where we’ll be tasting blind, we’re not about to risk singeing the old olfactory bulb. So, with water: it’s very gentle, vanilla-led, almost a little syrupy, with a touch of grassy juice adorned with honey and coconut milk. Mouth (neat): seems excellent, dominated by the ex-column side, though perhaps that’s just the near-lethal ABV talking. With water: there we are, tamed at last, and now curiously easy-going, even lightly sweet. Most likely 75 or 80% column, and very low-ester. Finish: same story, all in softness. Though we did bring it down to around 45% vol., let’s be honest. Comments: among the lighter-profile Foursquares out there. Still classy.
SGP:541 - 87 points. |
Let’s move on to some harder rock... |
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Monymusk 10 yo 2012/2013 'MDR' (57.20%, Rest & Be Thankful for South Africa, Navigate World Whisky, Jamaica, 2 hogsheads, 719 bottles)
These two hoggies were ex-Bruichladdich, would you believe, so perhaps we ought to expect a few melon notes. Which, in Monymusk, wouldn’t surprise anyone, agreed. I don't seem to remember what the MDR designation actually refers to, though frankly I’m not sure I ever did. In any case, Monymusk never ventures particularly high up the ester ladder. Colour: white wine. Nose: low ester or not, this smells exactly like a brand-new Nike trainer. A big size too. Then comes fresh putty and of course, overripe banana... With water: same notes, just a little more restrained. Mouth (neat): very tight, very saline. A mix of lemon juice and seawater, infused with pine ash and fresh rubber. Still no sign of melon anywhere. With water: the seawater takes over. And the brine. Finish: fairly long and even saltier. You’d almost expect to find a small crab floating in your glass. Comments: very good, of course.
SGP:552 - 88 points. |
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Hampden 5 yo 2019/2024 'LROK' (60.5%, Habitation Velier, ex-sherry)
Angels’ share of 34% in just 5 years, and, cough, 1,584 gr ester/hlpa. Wish me luck. Only joking – we love these extreme bottlings; that’s our masochistic side speaking. Colour: gold. Nose: three litres of oyster brine with a vanilla pod and the juice of half a lemon thrown in. In short, very delicate! Right. Perhaps the sherry is to thank for that... With water: rather odd, becomes almost gentle, on linseed oil and fresh paint. Mouth (neat): same story, less petrol-driven than expected, and more saline and citrus-led before you even add water. But it’s excellent. With water: no, still elegant and almost tame, as though the sherry had managed to subdue the little beast. Finish: long and of course, still very Hampden, though more drawing room Hampden than wild outdoor Hampden. You know what I mean... Almond syrup, orgeat and so on. Comments: maybe there was a tiny hiccup with the label as far as ester count is concerned, though I rather doubt it. In any case, it’s excellent.
SGP:552 - 89 points. |
We’re finishing with a very old Trinidadian... |
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TDL 33 yo 1991/2025 (58.4%, Decadent Drams, Trinidad, 168 bottles)
I rather think the person who designed this quite hallucinatory label ought to seek help without delay. We’re also still awaiting an apology, since having to rotate one’s MacBook to read the label online does carry a certain amount of risk, let’s be honest. And it does make you look a bit of a prat. Colour: gold. Nose: this is truly all about softness, giving the impression of nosing an old Invergordon. Almond croissants, soft honeys, custard, streusel, mirabelle jam, coconut macaroons... You get the picture. Not a trace of esters here. With water: the tiniest touches of putty. Mouth (neat): somewhere between an old Scottish grain and a bourbon, genuinely. Very surprising. Vanilla, nougat and coconut reign supreme. With water: it just gets even softer. Finish: medium in length and full of gentleness and composure. An entire biscuit tin and a few notes of English tea. Comments: utterly unexpected – you could easily slip this delightful thing into a grain whisky session (soon on WF) and it would most likely come out on top.
SGP:541 - 89 points. |
Check the index of all rums we've tasted |
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October 3, 2025 |
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WF's Little Duos, today Glenmorangie with extra-wood and wine
Simply the latest 'A Tale Of' and a refined version of last year's Decadent Drams, released under his pen name 'Westport'.
Ras-el-hanout |
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Glenmorangie ‘A Tale of Spices’ (46%, OB, 2025)
There, hang on tight, this one’s been finished in Moroccan red wine casks, plus new charred oak, plus PX, plus STR. It’s a bit like throwing Keith Jarrett, Jimmy Page, Flea and Ringo Starr together on the same stage. In short, improbable… Having said that, there are some excellent Moroccan wines, I do recommend S de Siroua, 100% syrah. Colour: gold. Nose: I must confess, it does start off a bit planky and vinous, with notes of strawberry, rose, peach, apricot, and Fanta… And perhaps, given Morocco’s involved, a hint of ras-el-hanout, that famous spice blend found in many a local dish. On the other hand, all of this merges after a few minutes and becomes much prettier, even the planky notes retreat somewhat. Phew. Mouth: same story, the arrival’s on cherry liqueur and sawdust, but it does mellow and turn more enjoyable, even though the wood remains quite assertive. Finish: long, spicy and fruity. Comments: still a touch improbable and it does feel a bit concocted, but in the end it’s genuinely good. That said, it remains quite a way off the excellent ‘A Tale of Tokyo’ from 2023 (WF 88).
SGP:661 - 81 points. |
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Westport 21 yo 2003/2024 (51.8%, Decadent Drams, 217 bottles)
Ex-refill hogshead + 1st fill oloroso sherry for two years. Colour: gold. Nose: well now, this is more Glenmo than Glenmo itself, rather fresh and verging on the ethereal, with a sherry influence that leans more towards sultanas than drier elements, along with sesame cream, orange marmalade, apricot jam, quince jelly, and the faintest hint of Turkish delight. With water: spices surge forward en masse upon dilution, dominated by cinnamon, before everything rather amusingly snaps back to the distillate like an elastic band. Mouth (neat): much more spice-led now, with ras-el-hanout making a triumphant return, plus black pepper, turmeric and ginger, quite surprising for a DD in fact, but there you have it. With water: the distillate reclaims centre stage, offering candied lemons, only for the sherry to counter with touches of mustard and green walnuts, then honey and dried figs sweep in to restore order. Finish: long, and certainly spicy by this point. Comments: this Glenmorangie rather enjoys a game of hide and seek with the taster, who ends up happily taken for a bit of a ride. Right, right...
SGP:561 - 87 points. |
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October 2, 2025 |
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WF's Little Duos, today two Fettercairns and French pink oak
Two new official Fettercairns unearthed during a hugely successful new edition of Whisky Live Paris last weekend, ahead of The Whisky Show in London and Whisky Live Hamburg — followed by a much-needed few days of hibernation. Or so we like to think… Just kidding.
Aside from that, we absolutely love what (Old) Fettercairn has become over the past few years. |
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Fettercairn 'Vanguard 1st Release' (46.3%, OB, 2025)
This small batch was first matured in ex-bourbon casks before being finished in barrels composed of staves made from American oak and heads fashioned from toasted Scottish oak. Scottish musicians Kathryn Joseph and Mogwai even composed a special piece after being exposed to the global project (check 'Lorica Pink', it’s very charming). Colour: pale gold. Nose: I wouldn’t go so far as to claim I’m detecting the Scottish oak—which I wouldn’t pretend to recognise in any case—but I do find the customary notes of exotic fruits accompanied by green spices, cardamom in particular, which may well be a gift from the wood. Light touches of confectionery as well, along with half a coconut ball and a wee spoonful of green oak honeydew. Mouth: still very much a conversation between distillate and fresh oak, with notes of green tea and orange and lemon sweets, the whole coming together rather well. The usual faintly mustardy and leathery notes we so enjoy in Fettercairn arrive next and help bind the whole together. Finish: fairly long, notably drier, with a rather green tannicity reminiscent of walnut skin. Comments: really good for a malt that leans quite heavily on its casks. Only the finish is a tad less ‘easy’.
SGP:461 - 85 points. |
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Fettercairn 29 yo 1995/2025 'Vanguard' (48.3%, OB, 99 bottles)
25 years in a refill hogshead, the remainder in French pink oak. I humbly confess to never having heard of ‘pink oak’ before, it would seem it’s not truly a distinct variety, but rather the heartwood of a French oak tree with a more ‘rosy’ hue, said to be a sign of superior wood maturation as compared with the paler white or yellow oak. so, nothing to do with American pink oak aka Quercus palustris. Colour: gold. Nose: there’s a clear lineage with the NAS, the oak’s influence being quite present, though gently so, with soft vanilla and white chocolate infused with strawberry and grated coconut. Pâtissiers sometimes use freeze-dried strawberry powder to evoke a similar effect. The firmer, slightly austere side of Fettercairn only whispers from the background, but whisper it does (spices, mustard, walnuts). The official notes spoke of strawberry aromas, which I initially thought might be a stretch, but it’s entirely true! Mouth: lively, fresh, more on blood orange on the palate, and that pink hue seems to linger in the mind’s eye... As with the NAS, the oak plays a central role, alongside those freeze-dried strawberry, cake, pistachio, citrus, and thus the wood leading the ensemble. Not a style we usually warm to, but I must admit the solo is very well performed here. Finish: medium in length, more on peach and apricot skins, with the lively tannicity one might expect and a very, very faintly mentholated, mustardy and peppery signature... Comments: it’s the aftertaste that feels most ‘Fettercairn’, which is quite unusual for malts in general. An old malt that simply does everything differently—and that, naturally, we love!
SGP:551 - 88 points. |
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September 2025 |
Serge's favourite recent bottling this month:
Smögen 10 yo 2014/2025 (59.1%, WDC, Sweden, 1st Fill Four Roses barrel, cask #13, 198 bottles) - WF 92
Serge's favourite older bottling this month:
Talisker 1957 (53.5%, Gordon & MacPhail, Natural Cask Strength, +/-1975) - WF 94
Serge's favourite bang for your buck this month:
World Peat Highball Premix 8 yo (50%, Decadent Drams, bourbon barrel, 2025) - WF 88
Serge's favourite malternative this month:
François Voyer ‘Lot 46’ (48.3%, OB, Grande Champagne, 2025) - WF 92
Serge's thumbs up this month:
Ardara '2025 Edition' (46%, OB, Irish single malt, 2025) - WF 88
Serge's Lemon Prize this month:
Ron Quorhum QRM '30 Aniversario Solera' (40%, OB, Dominican Republic, +/-2025) - WF 49 |
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October 1, 2025 |
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WF's Little Duos, today Talisker 10 and SR |
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| Talisker Distillery (Diageo) |
This year’s Special Releases have arrived very quietly, without fanfare. We’ll be tasting the Talisker first, and as for the others, we’ll see later. Indeed, I know, there’s been a lot of Talisker on WF lately, but we can’t help ourselves – we’re die-hard Talisker lovers. |
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Talisker 10 yo (45.8%, OB, +/-2025)
Indeed, we follow Talisker 10 religiously, year in, year out, and it remains one of the rare malts for which we actually do. We do it if only to confirm that no, the quality isn't dropping. Colour: gold. Nose: nothing doing, we still adore this expression, which conceals great finesse beneath a more imposing, even rather brutal façade. Velvet gloves inside an iron gauntlet, well, you know what I mean. A seafood platter, lemon, seaweed, damp earth and wet beach sand, olives, a barbecue lashed by an unexpected shower, tiny touches of oregano and dill... It's simply a flawless nose. Mouth: it's quite annoying how consistent this is, I think from now on I'll just copy and paste last year's notes each time. Brine and ashes, green pepper, lemon, sauvignon blanc, grapefruit, lapsang souchong, the faintest hint of honey... Did I mention the pepper? Finish: long, very fresh, magnificent. Comments: this admirable consistency is becoming a bit of a nuisance, but a delightful nuisance at that! Of course it is...
SGP:456 - 90 points. |
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Talisker 14 yo (53.9%, OB, Special Releases 2025)
You understand, this new baby was matured in bourbon and then 'finished in American oak casks toasted by the heat of volcanic rocks from Skye'. And to think it isn’t the 1st of April. 'Wilder frontiers of flavour for fearless explorers', they add, but are we fearless explorers, what do you say? In any case, we’re in stitches, so there’s that. Colour: white wine. Nose: zero chance after the 10-year-old, but let’s admit it, this is a very fresh, very narrow, almost surgical nose, and curiously closer to barley and... a hospital, with bandages and Mercurochrome, elements one generally finds more often on Islay. With water: becomes more austere and even abstract once water is added. Mouth (neat): if the idea was to move closer to Lagavulin, I have the honour and privilege to confirm it’s rather successful, even if the toasted wood feels a tad too prominent for my liking. It does suffer a bit after the splendid 10-year-old. With water: it edges nearer to the 10, which is excellent news, though with slightly less poise. A touch of cold ashes mid-palate. Finish: good length, but more drying, a little curled up around the ashes. Curry in the aftertaste, which is quite amusing. Comments: the storyline would make a Sicilian widow burst out laughing (apologies), but I confess the result is lovely. We now await with bated breath a Talisker 'Lagavulin finish' and, naturally, the reverse. But indeed, zero chance of catching up with the 10.
SGP:566 - 86 points. |
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