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March 13, 2025 |
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Whiskyfun's mixed bags
A few disguised Scottish malts
We'll just enjoy them quickly, without bothering to try to find out where they're from.
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Secret Speyside 14 yo 2008/2023 (55.6%, Tri Carragh, second fill sherry hogshead, 305 bottles) 
Colour: gold. Nose: lovely, honeyed, with a light earthy and yeasty touch, biscuits, raisin rolls, and fig leaves. With water: little change, just a bit more yeastiness and some notes of infused tea leaves. Mouth (neat): really good, malty, in the style of Glenfarclas, a bit thick and oily. Touches of gunpowder. With water: cherry stalk tisane and a drop of blackcurrant cream. Finish: fairly long, slightly herbal. Blackcurrants, pepper, cherries in eau-de-vie, and a touch of pine needles. Comments: a bit rustic, but I find this really very good—the worst part is that it’s probably better than the official version of a similar age.
SGP:551 - 84 points. |
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Secret Speyside 13 yo 2008/2022 (52.3%, Roger’s Whisky Co., bourbon cask, cask #41, 283 bottles) 
Colour: white wine. Nose: surprising to find gunpowder notes in an ex-bourbon cask; this must be one of those naturally sulphury Speysiders. Beyond that, peach, ripe apple, banana, and croissants. With water: it swims beautifully, becoming more floral. Mouth (neat): this feels very ‘Dufftown’. Peppery, waxy, and fruity (white fruits). With water: excellent, with the arrival of a slightly saline edge. Orgeat syrup. Finish: fairly long and even lovelier. Pear and almond tart with a drizzle of honey, and still that touch of sea breeze, somewhat Highland Park-like. Comments: excellent. Wait, Highland Park isn’t in Speyside, is it? A shame—it might have been interesting for the distillery’s name to appear here. Just saying.
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
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Secret Speyside 15 yo 2007/2022 (51.8%, The Whisky Agency for Tiffany’s New York Bar and Hong Kong Whisky Festival, hogshead, 120 bottles) 
Colour: white wine. Nose: pure cassata and fresh panettone. An abundance of fresh white nougat, dandelion flower confit (a guilty pleasure), and juicy sultanas. Holy Suzy! With water: I’m now thinking of small white pears. Mouth (neat): a touch of smoke, litres of lemon juice, massive Timut pepper, and… a tiny cup of pu-ehr tea. With water: barely any changes, although the quinces start to rise to the surface. Finish: long and very much about quinces and pepper. It’s an unusual combination, but it works brilliantly. Comments: surprise, surprise. I adore this little Hong Kong baby.
SGP:562 - 88 points. |
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Distilled at a Speyside Distillery 15 yo 2009/2024 (54.9%, Watt Whisky, hogshead, 318 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: the rich and slightly sulphury style previously mentioned returns, with orchard fruits and a very, very subtle earthy note plus a hint of ham rind. No worries, it’s perfect. With water: wow, things get lively! Leather and herbal teas, tomato leaf, bay leaf… Mouth (neat): a rich, fruity, and peppery attack, with loads of green apples. The pepper is massive—you could almost use it as a condiment. For example, on Scottish smoked salmon. With water: yes, perfect, very active, spicy, and peppery, with honey-coated capers. This means business. Finish: long and rich. Fruit peels and paraffin, with marked pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: truly beastly, this middle-aged Speysider.
SGP:462 - 87 points. |
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A Speyside Distillery 13 yo 2009/2023 (53.2%, Duckhammer’s for Wu Dram Clan, hogshead, cask #200929, 326 bottles)
This one is said to be ‘peated’. Several ex-Seagram distilleries did peat at some time, but Benriach is the most famous of them. We’ve always thought results were ‘average’, but let’s see… Colour: pale gold. Nose: you can indeed detect a smoky layer, reminiscent of charcoal and next-morning fireplace ashes. For now, it feels a bit closed. With water: much better, with a fresh bread note accompanied by smoked ham and salted butter. We’re starting to feel hungry… Mouth (neat): much better than the nose, even if it’s simple and direct. Lemon and ashes. With water: now this is good—proof that we’re edging towards the style of a young Caol Ila. All it needs are crabs and oysters. Still, the ashes keep a firm grip. Finish: rather long, leaning more towards pickled gherkins. Comments: very nice, but 1. we don’t know the distillery, and 2. it doesn’t quite feel like a Speyside, naturally. Perhaps good for marinating salmon? Trout? Caviar?
SGP:465 - 83 points. |
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Speyside Region 27 yo 1991/2018 (48.5%, Whisky-Fässle, hogshead)
No, this can’t be true—where have the ducks gone from the label? Let’s be clear, we love Whisky-Fässle, its whiskies, and its ducks. Colour: pale gold. Nose: one word springs to mind—elegance. The elegance of ripe apples, the elegance of soft honeys (acacia), and the elegance of baked yellow and white fruits (peaches, apricots, quinces). It’s like a top-tier white from Pessac-Léognan, aged ten or fifteen years, no less. Mouth: the same impression of elegance, but with more citric, rooty, and herbal tension. Ginseng, turmeric, ginger, radish, grapefruit… It tingles a bit, but it’s for your own good. Finish: long, with similar notes but leaning even more towards salty root flavours. Perhaps samphire. Comments: it’s funny how the palate feels so different from the nose. Very good in any case—and I’ve no clue what this could be, I admit.
SGP:561 - 88 points. |
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Speyside 25 yo 1998/2023 ‘Elderly Elvis Tilting #2’ (55.4%, Dramfool, bourbon barrel, cask #4406979, 246 bottles)
What-iz-dat? Perhaps some fun… Colour: gold. Nose: a classic nose, focused on apples and chalk, with subtle hints of coconut in the background. Water should wake it up… With water: yes, not bad—pistachios emerge, along with almond milk and a pleasant touch of green tea. Mouth (neat): lovely, fairly powerful, but quite cask-driven, with plenty of green pepper. Feels a bit like Glen Spey or Glendullan (and we love them both, love them guys!). With water: yes, it’s nice—simple, classic, malty—a very good ‘filler’. Finish: fairly long, more herbal, with delightful pear notes and some white pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: very pretty, though I didn’t quite get the link to Elvis—then again, Elvis isn’t really my thing anyway.
SGP:441 - 84 points. |
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Secret Highland Distillery 11 yo 2012/2024 (53.3%, Acla Selection, Ski Ladies, refill butt, cask #62491)
Magnificent label, almost Art Deco, and for once it ties in with the bottler and their local surroundings. Colour: white wine. Nose: just drop everything. The purity of the malt shines through, with wax and fresh citrus. With water: apple and quince juice. Mouth (neat): well yes, white cherries, citron, beeswax, mirabelles… With water: it’s fresh, it’s perfect. Beautiful touches of gentian (also quite local). Finish: moderately long but flawless, waxy and fruity (green, white, and yellow fruits). Comments: how good is this young ‘C’! I don’t know if there’s any left, but at around €55, forget Netflix and secure yourself 3 or 6 bottles immediately. Limit 88 points.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
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Highlands 12 yo (40%, Canmore, Charles Edge London, bourbon & sherry, +/-2023)
Whoops, it certainly takes some serious co**nes to present a 12-year-old Highland malt at 40% ABV. But let’s see—after all, the highly praised Macallan 1938 ‘red ribbon’ was also bottled at 40% (a completely rubbish argument, S.). Colour: gold. Nose: it whispers, but it whispers rather nicely. Ripe apples, mild ale, liquorice, dried figs… Quite pleasant. But you and I both know that it’s on the palate where the real test lies… Mouth: well, blow me down—it’s good, and not even remotely weak. I’m surprised. Lovely pepper, walnuts, butterscotch, roasted pecans, peanut butter… Well, I’ll be. Finish: even the finish is very decent, well-constructed, with no flabbiness. Walnut cake and a small glass of palo cortado sherry with a touch of saline elegance. Comments: the worst part is that this baby at 40% comes after several cask-strength malts. One must now bow in respect and offer an honourable apology—well played, Charles Edge of London!
SGP:562 - 85 points. |
The tenth will be the last one for today... There will still be plenty left to enjoy later... |
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Secret Highland Malt 21 yo 2000/2022 (54%, Liquid Treasures, peated bourbon hogshead, cask #63, 319 bottles) 
From what I gather, it’s the hogshead that was peated, not the distillate, correct? Colour: gold. Nose: pleasant if a bit undefined. Flint, sulphur, porridge, spent matches, an old sea captain’s coat, spent fireworks, and extinguished ashes à la Ardmore… It’s truly austere and most likely not Ardmore. With water: an old Zippo lighter. Mouth (neat): still those spent matches—it’s extremely intense on the ‘sulphur’ front. You have to like that sort of thing, especially as this profile is very rare when not from an ex-wine cask (sherry is wine, in case you hadn’t noticed—ha, sorry). With water: some wax and oranges try to steer it back on the right track, but honestly, it’s a hopeless mission. Finish: long, very sulphury. Comments: I struggle to understand this—it must be me. There are some redeeming qualities, and we know Liquid Treasures has delivered countless gems over the years. Honestly, I’m sure they did this on purpose to tease us a little and test our resilience. Well played—it worked perfectly. Or perhaps it was the Y2K bug that struck. Hugs.
SGP:363 - 70 points. |
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March 12, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today Dalmore and some red wine
To be honest, what we always look for first and foremost in Dalmore are the magnificent notes of orange that usually refresh the palate from the initial taste to the tail of the finish. Sometimes, these notes linger even when the sherry or other wine cask influence is very pronounced, even completely dominant. That said, Dalmore generally uses quality casks, which certainly helps when you’re following or have followed a hyper-premiumisation strategy. Besides, I find whisky enthusiasts/geeks/experts a bit too harsh on Dalmore in general, but let’s move on... |
Mary Queen of Scots
(Kelvingrove Art Gallery
and Museum, Glasgow) |
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Dalmore ‘Cigar Malt Reserve’ (44%, OB, +/-2024)
A NAS version matured in old Matusalem sherry casks (naturally old ,with a name like that) at 70%, plus 20% bourbon and 10% cabernet sauvignon, the latter supposedly not causing any particular issues at this dosage. We last tasted this expression back in 2012, though at the time, it apparently didn’t feature any cabernet sauvignon according to the brand’s website (back then). Colour: apricot. Nose: rather lovely, led by praline and maple syrup at first, before the raisins barge in and take over, though with a certain elegance. Heaps of Jaffa cakes, a touch of menthol and a hint of wood smoke round things off. Not bad at all, even without a cigar. Mouth: a leathery side, young bark, and quite a dominant green walnut note, followed by very dry raisins, then chocolate and pepper. Some orange marmalade shows up as well, along with a sweet-and-salty touch. Finish: fairly long but distinctly more bitter. Aubergines, bell peppers, and those green walnuts lingering on. Comments: I found it so-so thirteen years ago, but today this new version feels quite pleasant, despite the bitterness in the finish. Blame the cabernet?
SGP:561 - 84 points. |
One day on a boat (don’t ask), Master Richard Paterson explained to me where the name ‘marmalade’ supposedly came from. Mary Stuart, Queen of Scotland and France, felt unwell while eating jam, and her entourage exclaimed in French: ‘Marie est malade!’ (Mary is sick!). To anglophone ears, ‘Marie est malade’ sounded like ‘marmalade’. However, after some fact-checking, it seems this story is somewhat debatable, dear Richard, but let’s move on—it’s still a charming tale... |
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Dalmore 12 yo 2012/2024 (55.8%, Berry Bros. & Rudd, butt + Barolo finish, cask #3577, 304 bottles)
Holy Mary, some Nebbiolo from Barolo! I do love Barolo, but I’ve witnessed some proper clashes between Barolo and whisky before, and let’s be honest, the combo can sometimes feel ‘Hawaiian pizza’. Colour: onion peel. Nose: heavily marked by the bold Italian wine, though without any real clash. Hints of rose petals, boiled sweets, and canned lychees, almost like a short-macerated gewürztraminer. Then come peonies, sultanas, and the blood oranges I promised earlier, followed by a clear ‘winery’ note. With water: much the same. Mouth (neat): mirrors the nose, with ultra-pronounced vinosity and a punch of black pepper. With water: blackberry and raspberry liqueurs, plums, plus marmalade and a hefty dose of pepper and liquorice. Finish: long, with even more pepper, liquorice, and prunes. A return of violets in the aftertaste. Comments: Berry Bros. are legendary wine merchants, so naturally, they can spell ‘Barolo’ properly, unlike some of their whisky-only peers. No, I won’t name names.
SGP:661 - 84 points. |
To be honest, we still don’t really know what to make of this recent invasion of whisky by red wine. Nor of ‘Doritos’ strategies in general... |
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March 11, 2025 |
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A lovely little bag of eight Bowmore
Let's see, how are we going to sort all this out?...
(Bowmore in the 1920s - Bowmore)
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Bowmore 12 yo ‘Sherry Oak Cask’ (40%, OB, 2024) 
Alas, the 21-year-old version left me a little cold last year (WF 83), in any case, it wasn’t quite where I expected it to be. This is indeed an oloroso finish rather than full maturation, hence that slightly ‘patched-together’ feel. Colour: gold. Nose: well, well, they’ve almost recreated the 1985 style, with lavender-scented eau de toilette and even dried lavender thrown into a roaring fireplace. That said, it then shifts back to a more typical profile, more maritime, with freshly ground coffee straight from the packet. A touch of cured ham. Mouth: once again, we’re hurled twenty-five years back in time, this time with lavender-infused chocolate taking centre stage. It’s really quite amusing, especially as blood oranges start to emerge alongside an increasingly assertive salinity. Finish: curiously long given the strength, yet that perfumed quality keeps coming back. Comments: hmm, once again, that ‘collage’ effect, but of course, it remains interesting and certainly not bad at all. Hey, it’s Bowmore!
SGP:454 - 80 points. |
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Bowmore 8 yo 2016/2024 (46%, Douglas Laing Provenance, refill barrel, cask #DL19081, 316 bottles)
There are often some lovely ‘au naturel’ things in this small range, which has usually been very well priced. Colour: white wine. Nose: oh, it’s been a while since I found this much olive oil in a whisky. No need to say I love it, so let’s head straight to the palate… Mouth: brine, smoked water, oysters, lemon, and once again olive oil, though in much more reasonable quantities. A touch of paraffin. Finish: long, it’s almost seawater with a bit of boat engine oil and lemon. Impeccable, it’s almost got the taste of Loch Indaal’s water. Comments: no need to say it knocks the official 12 out in the first round.
SGP:466 - 89 points. |
Right, we might as well get the next one out of the way straight away... |
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Bowmore 10 yo ‘Inspired by the Devil’s Casks Series’ (46%, OB, oloroso sherry casks & red wine barriques, travel retail, +/-2017)
A rather amusing example of circular marketing. It’s true that there were some excellent ‘Devil’s Casks’ expressions entirely matured in oloroso, though I don’t believe there was any red wine involved. Colour: full gold. Nose: oh, this is funny, starting with Tesla exhaust fumes (hey, we can joke, right?), then tar, soot, coffee, ham, and dark chocolate. A little blackcurrant, though in very reasonable amounts. Mouth: it’s good, despite some dissonant touches in the background, like charcoal-smoked strawberries, but nothing too disruptive. The rest is rather nice, with oranges, soot, peat smoke, Périgord walnut liqueur (why not), and slightly peppery maple syrup. Finish: fairly long, on ashes, bell pepper, bitter oranges, juniper, leather… Comments: a bit unlikely on paper, but in reality, it’s been done with a certain finesse. We’re now waiting for the next Bowmore ‘Inspired by the 10-year-old that the first Devil’s Casks inspired.’ Always some good fun to be had in travel retail…
SGP:565 - 85 points. |
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Bowmore 21 yo 2001/2023 ‘Guianova’ (50.8%, The Antelope Macau for Casky 5th Anniversary, refill barrel, cask #80011716, 167 bottles) 
Casky’s an awesome whisky bar in Hong Kong. Colour: straw. Nose: right, tropical fruits. Namely, mango and passion fruit. I reckon they must have made a stencilling error at the distillery—this must be a 1971, not a 2001. Anyway, an utterly dazzling nose. With water: fresh seaweed, seawater, langoustines, tangerines. Still sheer class. Mouth (neat): I swear, 1971. Mangoes, tiny pink bananas, seawater, clams, Sichuan pepper, and pink grapefruit. Frankly, we’re a bit stunned. With water: and it swims beautifully, with a saline explosion and a dozen assorted oysters drizzled with lemon and properly petroly Alsatian Riesling. Finish: not eternal but of great beauty, fresh and maritime. Comments: an absolute scandal, this stencilling mistake. Watch out if you’re passing through Hong Kong—this goes down like mother’s milk.
SGP:755 - 92 points. |
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Bowmore 26 yo 1997/2024 (52.8%, The Antelope 5th Anniversary, refill hogshead, cask #161221, 198 bottles)
Seems like everyone was celebrating their 5th Anniversary at the same time in the Greater Guangdong–Hong Kong–Macau Bay. Colour: chardonnay. Nose: here we have a peatier Bowmore, less expansive but still crystalline, medicinal, heavily smoky, packed with flint, petrol, engine oil, eucalyptus, limestone, and slate… With water: now fresh fougasse emerges, and we love that. Also a touch of plaster and a hint of casein. Mouth (neat): let’s just say it—this is the style we were expecting. Taut, austere, fairly dry, full of smoke and ashes, shellfish, and all things saline. Grapefruit skin (mind the pesticides). With water: citrus barges in, bringing along its mates, clams and whelks. A rather soft pepperiness. Finish: long, with curious hints of gin and ginger. Lovely aftertaste of lemon and oysters. Comments: less extravagant than its 2001 counterpart, more complex, perhaps more intellectual. Honestly, we love both, but the 2001 had that extra ‘wee wow’ factor.
SGP:555 - 91 points. |
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Bowmore 27 yo 1997/2024 (53.1%, Tri Carragh, release 06, butt, 144 bottles)
No-frills packaging, which is always nice. Colour: straw/light gold. Nose: more on garden fruits, barley, dandelions, a small handful of sultanas, chalk, cement, candle wax, then grapefruit… This baby is noticeably more discreet than the previous ones, more restrained, perhaps more ‘well-mannered’, if that expression still means anything these days. With water: classic Islay, raw wool, Islay mud, and sliced white bread from the Bowmore SPAR (sadly closed now, I’ve learned! Apparently, it’s a Co-op these days, but I’m clearly behind the times). Mouth (neat): big bang on citrus and peppers, then coffee (must be the butt) and almost-burnt walnuts. A rather unexpected hint of youthful eau-de-vie. Eau-de-vie distilled by the ocean, of course. With water: just perfect, very saline. Loads of brine. Finish: long, peppery, with an ever-present brininess. Comments: in the end, it revealed a bit of a cheeky side over time. Still splendid.
SGP:566 - 90 points. |
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Bowmore 35 yo 1989/2024 (50.1%, Douglas Laing, Xtra Old Particular, The Queen & King Black Diamond Collection, refill hogshead, cask #188391, 238 bottles)
In a way, this is the top of the top of the top of the top range from Douglas Laing. The 1989 vintage at Bowmore, in our humble experience, can be a little ‘odd’, in that mid-1980s style, or simply sublime and already leaning towards the ‘modern Bowmore’ profile of the early 1990s, which can be superb. Let’s see… Colour: straw (eh!). Nose: hard to pinpoint and describe. Lots of rapeseed oil, a touch of high-end shampoo, cider, Sauvignon Blanc, wool and Woolite, raspberry liquorice (that must exist, right?) … In short, all rather unusual and perhaps a little fragile. With water: all sorts of waxes, papers, and cardboard. Mouth (neat): the raspberry note is even more pronounced. Raspberry yoghurt, raspberry white chocolate, then small shellfish and a curiously graceful and fruity peat. Waxed paper. With water: indeed, a bit fragile, but very beautiful, like an old painting (or an old democracy) that just needs a little restoration. Fruit bread (strawberries, apricots) … Finish: medium length, with a rather unique saline and fermentary fruitiness. Sweet and sour. Comments: it’s not impossible that this very charming malt whisky has started to suffer the inevitable ravages of time, but for now, it retains an utterly unique charm. You know what I mean, right? Like an old black-and-white film…
SGP:563 - 90 points. |
One last little one, still backwards, so to speak... |
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Bowmore 1974/1990 (43%, Moon Import, The Birds II, 600 bottles)
The 1964/1987 The Birds I at 46% was phantasmagorical (WF 94), the 1962/1992 ‘crest’ a little disappointing (WF 89), and the 1957/1990 ‘crest’ perfect (WF 92). But here we are, having never formally tasted this 1974/1990—high time we did. In any case, it’s always an immense joy to add these yet-to-be-tasted old glories to a friendly verticale. It’s all a matter of perspective, you see. Colour: full gold. Nose: there’s something here we don’t find in any Bowmore today—those old massage oils, ointments, camphor, but also paraffin, dried apricots, peppermint, mead, fresh hazelnuts, baklava, resinous wood ashes, mint tea, buttery caramel, old books, inks, vintage magazines… You’re right, it’s going in all sorts of directions, but the charm is immense. Long live chaos in our whiskies! (right?) Mouth: these early 1970s vintages are not always easy to pin down, as their style could vary significantly—some extending the 1960s profile, others not. Here, it’s beautifully saline, perhaps a bit fragile at 43% after all these years, but overall, it’s an unfathomably delicate maritime whisky, almost evoking the deepness of the Mariana Trench (what?). Small citrus fruits, pistachio oil, fruit peels, camphor and eucalyptus, shellfish, almost cosmetic-like smoke… You see, it’s pure lace. Finish: not very long, light, but stunningly elegant. An afternoon on a northern Brittany beach in the Roaring Twenties—or something along those lines. Comments: absolutely sublime, but why, oh why, didn’t they stick to 46% ABV in 1990 at Moon Import? Yes, I know, that’s nitpicking at its finest.
SGP:454 - 91 points. |
(Thank you very mucho, Fuji and Thierry!) |
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March 10, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today young Aberlour |
We’re trying to catch up with the A'bunadh, but every time we taste a batch, another one comes out — it’s a real curse. A'bunadh was hugely successful among malt enthusiasts when it launched in the late 1990s because the selling point — “we blend very old whiskies with younger ones, which is why there’s no age statement” — seemed credible twenty-five years ago, and quite possibly was! Of course, with the rise of NAS whiskies, we now laugh ourselves silly at that. On the other hand, no one dares use that kind of selling point these days — or so it seems. Oh, and A'bunadh? Still tastes great. |
Filling your own bottle of 'Aberlour Glenlivet' at the
Distillery in 2003 (MM Archive, Krishna Nukkala) |
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Aberlour 12 yo 'Double Cask Matured' (40%, OB, +/-2024)
It’s the usual bourbon and sherry combo, a proper old-school classic. We did quite enjoy a batch from 2020 (WF 84), which felt rather serious despite the now somewhat unfashionable low strength. By the way, the packaging has changed since 2020. Colour: deep gold. Nose: classic Aberlour fruitiness, with cherries and other stone fruits, touches of varnish and kirsch, along with marzipan (the kirsch-laced kind!) and a few amaretti. Some panettone shows up too – you know how much we love panettone, don’t you? And there’s even a hint of mirabelle eau-de-vie, that typical one from France’s Eastern Marches. Mouth: drier and more on the woody side now, with notes of tobacco, dark chocolate and bitter orange. A handful of raisins pop up as well, but it’s noticeably drier this time, though still very pleasant. It feels less of an ‘allrounder’ compared to the last batch. Finish: not that short, fairly oaky, still carrying tobacco and chocolate, plus a faint leathery touch. Some walnuts in the aftertaste. Comments: if a little bitterness doesn’t scare you off, this offers very good bang for your buck.
SGP:451 - 85 points. |
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Aberlour ‘A’bunadh Batch #80’ (61%, OB, Spanish oloroso butts, 2023)
Good grief, we’re always running behind – this one came out in 2023! The last batch we tasted, back in December 2024, was #77, which had also been released in 2023. We’ll never catch up, shall we? The market’s probably already on batch #85! Colour: deep gold. Nose: powerful, rounded and, as expected, heavily on fruitcake. Lovely notes of beeswax coat the whole thing. I think we’d better add water straight away… With water: plenty of fresh glue, fig leaves, freshly sawn wood, ground coriander seeds and raw chocolate, all still wrapped in that lovely beeswax. The fruitcake notes aren’t as exuberant as anticipated, but who’s complaining? Mouth (neat): ultra-powerful, and once again dominated by walnut wine and bitter orange zest. Truth be told, we’re quite fond of this style, though we know water can completely turn things around… With water: here comes the malty sweetness, dried figs, currants, fir honey and a good dollop of marmalade. This is when it really starts to shine. Finish: long, spicier and simply more ‘oloroso’, though perhaps just a tad too spicy. Comments: in my humble opinion, this remains a lovely beast, nearly up there with its ancestor, Aberlour ‘100 proof’, one of the great NAS bottlings from the mid-1990s.
SGP:561 – 87 points. |
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March 9, 2025 |
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About ten spring rums with plenty great ones
Just a bit more rum of all kinds, as spring approaches in the Northern Hemisphere. And we’re starting with apéritifs…
(Montebello) |
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Guatemala Rum ‘Gran Reserva’ (40%, Rum Nation, +/-2023) 
Here we are in Zacapa territory, with a young little rum that should be very sweet on the palate… Colour: gold, thick texture – it moves like oil. Nose: a very pretty nose, mainly on blood oranges and light acacia honey, with tangerines emerging thereafter. Highly seductive, no doubt about that, though without the somewhat heady aromatic side found elsewhere. Mouth: oily, very sweet, on cane syrup blended with tangerine juice and honey. It’s a bit ‘too much’ when sipped neat like this, but plenty of ice should make it more enjoyable and less cloying. Not that we’ll try, as that’s not how we operate. At least it isn’t overloaded with coffee. Finish: short, sweet. Honey, dates, cane syrup, and maple syrup. Comments: not at all our preferred style, but within this genre, undoubtedly a fine success. With ice.
SGP:730 - 75 points. |
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The Duppy Share ‘XO’ (40%, OB, Barbados, +/-2024)
Rather loved the other ones by Duppy Share, one was a Jamaican, the other one a blend of Bajan and Jamaican rums. Colour: rich gold. Nose: extremely aromatic yet elegant, let’s say a mix of triple sec, juniper, Timut pepper, and fresh cane juice. It’s an unusual nose, almost giving the impression that pink pepper has been added. Mouth: hmm, this doesn’t feel very natural—there’s even more pink pepper on the palate, along with pineapple liqueur and sweet gin. Very surprising, though not unpleasant. Finish: rather long due to all these peppery liqueurs, but once again, ice is an absolute must. But then, watch those intake levels… A touch of quinquina in the aftertaste. Comments: a humorous rum, shall we say. My favourite Duppy Share remains the Jamaican white, by far.
SGP:740 - 72 points. |
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Beenleigh 7 yo ‘Platypus Edition’ (43%, FRC, Australia, +/-2024)
This baby aged for 5 years in ex-bourbon on location and was then finished for 2 years in sherry wood in Europe. As for the platypus, it filled our childhood years—we loved seeing pictures of that bizarre creature from the Antipodes in National Geographic. I would add that its face also reminds us of certain Hollywood actresses who are no longer in the prime of their youth and who may have gone a bit overboard with plastic surgery. Right. Colour: gold. Nose: very typical, on old leathers and fresh tar, then modelling clay, cocoa powder, and cloves. Some metal polish. A very different profile, for sure. Mouth: brilliantly unusual, with flavours that rarely come together—thyme, tar, ashes, juniper berries, bitter oranges, the bitter nuts from sherry, plenty of green pepper, and even a faint peaty touch. Finish: long, tarry, and peppery, with Campari and oak bitterness in the aftertaste. Comments: a strange beast indeed. The choice of label design and name suits the rather unusual style of this rum perfectly.
SGP:462 - 85 points. |
Since we were in Australia... |
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Cargo Cult ‘Navy Strength Batch No.1’ (54.5%, Small Batch Spirits Company, blended rum, Australia, +/-2024)
An intriguing blend of 3 yo pot still rums from Fiji and Papua New Guinea, done in Australia and shipped to us. We're not going to look at the carbon footprint, are we? First time we’re trying rum from Papua New Guinea, hurray! Colour: light gold. Nose: the Fijian roars and hits you with its smoky and petroly profile. South Pacific Distillery for sure. Add green olives and a touch of custard laced with white chocolate, and you’ve got an excellent composition. With water: clearly in a Jamaican-Guyanese style. Love those wafts of fresh pleather. Mouth (neat): obviously excellent. The Fijian element is top-notch, leading the whole with its usual profile (you know, olives, seawater, tar, solvents), while some superb citrus adds a touch of softness (right?). With water: honeyed and smoky touches. Finish: long, maritime, and still tarry, while once again, the citrus brings everything back into balance in the aftertaste. Comments: well played, that’s for sure.
SGP:563 - 87 points. |
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We’d love to taste this Papua rum as a ‘single’ one of these days. Anyway, let’s carry on…
Montebello 8 yo ‘Batch Année 2022’ (42%, OB, Guadeloupe, agricole)
Another rather distinctive distillery from the French islands. Colour: gold. Nose: plenty of fudge and salted butter caramel laced with orange, with a distinctly agricole character. Hints of bitter almonds and jasmine, then liquorice with violet and mint, the liquorice quickly managing to dominate the whole. Mouth: a rather surprising style, both chocolatey and floral, with a light smokiness and resinous notes reminiscent of conifers, even veering towards thuja, then very ristretto-like coffee. Finish: long, with the return of bitter orange and liquorice. Violet notes linger in the aftertaste. Comments: I don’t know why, but this very lovely Montebello brings to mind a well-made young Pomerol.
SGP:562 - 87 points. |
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Uitvlugt 26 yo 1998/2024 (51.6%, Silver Seal, Guyana, cask #V44-24, 210 bottles)
They do have a thing for parrots at Silver Seal, as evidenced by the magnificent label on this old Demerara rum, distilled two years before the distillery closed. Colour: deep gold. Nose: a gentle and rather light style, leaning towards maple syrup and all sorts of citrus liqueurs. I reckon water will wake it up further. With water: the faint petrolic notes now emerge, along with metal polish, old copper pennies, blond tobacco, then a touch of parsley, chervil, Corinth raisins, and dried figs… Mouth (neat): very lovely, more refined than your usual Demerara, with orange cake and, once again, maple syrup—just missing the pancakes. With water: in come camphor, cough syrup, liquorice, and even a few wayward shellfish, adding a saline touch. Love them. Finish: not the longest but highly complex, a little sweet-and-salty. Salty liquorice lingers in the aftertaste. Comments: don’t be fooled by the relatively civilised bottling strength, water transforms it completely and takes it to near-supersonic levels.
SGP:562 - 91 points. |
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Mhoba 2020 ‘WR1’ (55%, OB, South Africa, for Navigate World Whisky, South Africa, bourbon, 241 bottles, +/-2024)
100% pot still and a South African rum for a South African (very skilled) distributor—how coherent is that? It was aged in ex-Woodford Reserve wood, and it’s said this rum has always seemed ‘smokey’. Let’s see… Colour: gold. Nose: well, yes, it’s smoky, petrolic, tarry, smelling of a brand-new iPhone (the thing no one actually needs) and grilled bacon, along with olive oil. In fact, it’s very beautiful. Borderline moringa, but let’s not overdo this. With water: no change, though none was needed. Mouth (neat): bonkers. Smoky indeed, very salty, packed with natural rubber and citrus peels, plus the usual liquorice and an unusually large dose of tarragon. With water: you’re practically propelled to Jamaica, except there’s also this fresh rubbery side that’s just delightful. Finish: lovely, saline, liquorice-laden, earthy, and—unless my brain is playing tricks on me—hints of amarula. Comments: no surprise, we’ve known for a few years now that Mhoba makes brilliant stuff. But this one is particularly brilliant.
SGP:462 - 90 points. |
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SVN 2003/2025 (61.3%, Vagabond Spirits, Silva Collection, Réunion, 240 bottles)
SVN, Réunion—it does bear a strong resemblance to Savanna. Let’s also take a moment to think of that wonderful island, which was struck just last week by a particularly violent cyclone. To you, friends! Colour: amber. Nose: even on the nose, it’s comforting, warm, with prunes, coffee, and black olives. I’m not sure if this is grand arôme, but it very well could be. That said, at this strength, one must protect both the olfactory bulb and receptor neurons… With water: earth and varnish galore, with a faint gamey touch… Mouth (neat): explosive, packed with concentrated liquorice and acetone. No suicidal tendencies here, mind you… With water: tons of orange blossom honey! Incredible… Finish: long and splendid, on coffee, black nougat, and natural varnish, then dark chocolate and, increasingly, cloves. Comments: as with the Mhoba, there are some, let’s say, ‘different’ elements—not exactly orthodox—but that only adds to the pleasure these rums provide. Let’s not forget that this rare Savanna (if it is indeed Savanna) is over 20 years old.
SGP:462 - 90 points. |
Here, let's try something... |
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Savanna 14 yo 2008/2024 (65.1%, Swell de Spirits, Wild Card series, Réunion, cask #699, 240 bottles)
This is a ‘traditional’ Savanna, meaning theoretically molasses-based. Colour: glowing red amber. That’s right. Nose: much gentler, softer, more restrained, despite the 65% ABV—which did lead us to contact our lawyer. Alas, as usual, he was out golfing, iPhone 16 Pro switched off. What a fool. With water: abundant cedar, spruce wood, and chocolate. Not particularly complex, but still extremely lovely. Mouth (neat): sublime varnish and old walnuts, but we won’t dwell on that further—at least not without H2O. With water: oh, delightful—orange cordial, cumin, and even a faint Chartreuse-like note. You can feel the lighter texture of these ‘traditional’ styles. Finish: fairly long, on chocolate, mint, and orange. A hint of glue in the aftertaste. Comments: without a doubt, about as good as it gets in this category.
SGP:561 - 88 points. |
Good, one last one—a Jamaican, of course... |
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Clarendon 13 yo 2010/2024 (56.6%, Valinch & Mallet, The Spirit of Art, Jamaica, cask #432920, 334 bottles)
8 years in the tropics, the rest under a European climate. Messrs Valinch & Mallet continue to offer us beautifully designed bottles, with the artwork here done by Luca Coser. I don’t know him, but he seems talented! Honestly, there’s nothing sillier than a plain bottle of rum or whisky—you might as well decorate it elegantly. Colour: gold. Nose: that slightly ‘mid-esters’ side of Clarendon/Monymusk is back, which can sometimes be frustrating, but not at all here—quite the opposite. Wonderful notes of brined anchovies, stuffed olives (stuffed with anchovies, to be precise), then paint, old varnishes, bitter almonds, and Calvados… With water: a stroll on the beach at low tide, with tar in the air. Mouth (neat): incredible, almost like being at Caroni, I swear! Perfect salinity, petroleum notes (only desirable in this context), and overripe exotic fruits at their pinnacle. With water: perfect. This must be a Clarendon at 500g (referring, of course, to the esters per hectolitre of pure alcohol). Finish: the olives come roaring back, supported by lemon. Comments: seriously ester-packed for a Clarendon. In short, excellent.
SGP:563 - 90 points. |
 Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far
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High scores and stuff |
I still need to repeat something. We are fully aware that there are a lot of top-tier whiskies, rums, and brandies on WF, many of which we believe deserve 90 points or more. I know we sometimes get criticised for this, but you have to understand that distillers, bottlers, and merchants almost never, or barely ever, send us entry-level or average-quality spirits. They’re not stupid!
That doesn’t stop us from publishing reviews of them as often as possible, but to do so, we have to source these ‘average’ spirits ourselves because, quite simply, no one will send them to us voluntarily. And certainly not the distillers, whose main objective is to try to control (or, let’s be honest, buy) what ‘influencers’ and the press have to say.
Between us, we can’t really blame them—they’re just doing their job, and many of them do it very well.
Angus would also add the point that we are at heart and remain absolutely spirits enthusiasts who love searching for and tasting the very best and most pleasurable drinks. It is fun to taste the average or downright bad on occasion as it adds very necessary perspective, but we are not masochists and we will always err on the side of pleasure and fun!
Right, let’s carry on…
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March 7, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today stunning recent Glen Elgin (de la muerte)
We love tasting Glen Elgin; there are always little twists and turns, depth, and texture. Well, I know what I mean… In any case, we always think of the extraordinary old ads run by White Horse, of which Glen Elgin was/is one of the main malts, if not the principal one. |
Imee Ooi (IMM Musicworks) |
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Glen Elgin 11 yo 2013/2024 (55.3%, Watt Whisky, hogshead, 170 bottles)
One should be as close to the natural distillate as possible here. Colour: white wine. Nose: a mix of oils, really—rapeseed, sesame, peanut, sunflower… I swear, it’s quite incredible, and I love it. In the background, a base of fresh apple juice, that’s all. And that’s plenty. With water: a chalky touch, a few drops of fountain pen ink, a little flour, and some sourdough… Mouth (neat): perfectly perfect. Barley eau-de-vie, beeswax, apple compote, a hint of fresh turmeric and mild pepper. Yes, it’s perfect indeed. With water: the Clynelish side of Glen Elgin emerges. Quite fitting, as it seems there hasn't been much Clynelish under its own name for a while now, and we do miss it. Finish: a playful touch of strawberry jam, then bread, waxes, and oils. More pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: rather brilliant, especially for fans of distillate-driven malts. Bottle to buy.
SGP:561 - 89 points. |
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Glen Elgin 33 yo 1991/2024 (54.2%, Signatory Vintage, Symington’s Choice, 1st fill oloroso sherry butt, cask #4073, 529 bottles)
Let’s get ready, check the glass, stretch a little… here we go. Colour: pure mahogany. Nose: insane, dark chocolate, toothpaste, cigar ash, clay, prunes, and loads of paraffin and plasticine. One doesn’t fully understand everything here, but we gladly surrender. With water: a piece of peat smouldering in the stove, antique embrocations, pipe tobacco, more prunes, and a touch of dried meat (biltong, beef jerky…). It’s unstoppable—you must yield. Mouth (neat): what even is this? Huge notes of old armagnac, lapsang souchong, 18th-century Jerez brandy at the very least, plus cinchona and liqueurs made from green walnuts and bitter oranges. There’s an utterly charming, almost moving antiquated feel to it—it’s like a recreation of a barely imagined past and I… (stop it now, S.). With water: pure madness now, with tonnes of pine sap. Please call the anti-maltoporn brigade. Finish: long, more tertiary, meaty, with morels and tobacco, and, of course, old oloroso. Comments: namo ratna trayaya, namo arya jnana sagara, vairochana, byuhara jara tathagataya, arahat e, samyaksam buddhaya (*) …
SGP:572 - 93 points. |
(*) It is the awesome and very soothing Buddhist mantra of great compassion, very fitting for the present times. We recommend Imee Ooi’s renditions. De nada. Oh and Akari Tamura's are very good too. |
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March 6, 2025 |
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A barrow full of American whiskies,
a session now 125% free! |
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IMPORTANT! Please note that from today onwards, all our tastings of whiskies or other spirits from the USA will be subject to an additional 25% customs duty. Granted, this little blog is 100% free and does not engage in any commercial activity whatsoever (display, edvertorial or interstitial advertising, paid tastings, sponsorship, affiliation, etc.), but please be aware that whiskyfun.com is now officially 125% free instead of 100% regarding all American spirits.
Thank you for your attention and understanding.
– The Management |
PS: We are firmly committed to continuing to taste and review American whiskies without any bias, bitter taste or 'strange feelings', but we reserve the right to make the occasional (and questionable) joke.
Let's see what we have in stock. today.. |
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Elvis The King (45%, Grain & Barrel Spirits, USA, Tennessee Straight Rye Whiskey, +/-2023) 
Would someone be so kind as to tell me who this famous ‘Elvis’ is meant to represent? Is he someone well known in the whisky world? Here we go again… This is 95% rye, sourced in Tennessee, so one would assume George Dickel, though it’s said that Dickel’s 95% rye actually comes from Indiana (MGP). Complicated business, and not something we know much about… Colour: gold. Nose: that very typical balance of spice and roundness, leaning towards caraway, lavender, vanillin, and fresh rye bread. Then a few touches of pine sap and varnish. A simple nose, but one we quite enjoy. Mouth: the wood is rather prominent at first, with a sawdusty side, followed by liquorice wood and a good dose of pepper. Then come crushed bananas and a slightly soapy note, with a hint of gin. Finish: of medium length, with some tannicity and a rather peppery, drying aftertaste. Comments: can one really call it ‘Tennessee Straight Rye’ when it’s possibly distilled in Indiana? In any case, it’s very decent, though the oak is rather dominant.
SGP:461 - 79 points. |
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Woodford Reserve ‘2024 Holiday Edition’ (43.2%, OB, USA, Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey)
We’re not particularly familiar with this famous brand. Colour: gold. Nose: certainly oaky, but fresh, with hints of geranium beyond the vanilla, popcorn, caramel, and orange jam. Nothing complicated, but really quite pleasant. Mouth: all in on marmalade and fresh ginger, then lemon, nutmeg, and cinnamon, with a general fruitiness underpinning the whole. Finish: long, with maple syrup, violets, liquorice, and lemon sweets. There’s wood, but it remains in check. Comments: I find this really enjoyable, easy-going and pleasant. That said, I read somewhere that they claim 200 different flavours… Well, I must have missed a few.
SGP:551 - 81 points. |
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Texas Legation ‘Batch 2’ (46.2%, Berry Bros. & Rudd, USA, bourbon whiskey, 5,000 bottles, 2018)
They write ‘Made in Texas, accredited in London’. Now, I’ve seen that there’s a small town in Texas named ‘London’. Good one. Anyway, this comes from the Ironroot Republic Distillery in Denison, Texas, where they have taken a ‘French-inspired approach to raising whiskies of character’ since 2014. Bless them. Colour: gold. Nose: this is much more about cakes than wood elements. Orange cake, wildflower honey, maple syrup, damp earth, candied cherries and citrus zest, marzipan… Nothing to throw away so far, we’re enjoying this. Mouth: very fruity but also strongly marked by pipe tobacco, with quite a concentrated side that’s rather surprising. Small touches of maple syrup again, along with juniper and cloves. Finish: fairly long, with amusing notes of woodruff and star anise. Comments: really very good, powerful on an aromatic level, yet still civilised. Texas has been producing some rather wonderful things lately, or so it seems, not just Khruangbin.
SGP:651 - 86 points. |
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Yellowstone 6 yo (50%, OB, USA, 150th Anniversary, Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, 2022)
A very old brand. We’ve already tasted Yellowstone ‘Select’, and it was good. The label is amusing—one could easily picture it in a Netflix series happening in the 1930s. This bourbon comes from Limestone Branch Distillery in Lebanon, KY, but as the distillery seems rather tiny, it’s not impossible that this whisky is also sourced from MGP, via the owners Luxco (who themselves belong to MGP, apparently). These things are always complicated, and we’re not too keen on playing detectives… It often leads back to Wall St. anyway. Colour: deep gold. Nose: very pretty, typical, fruity, and packed with all sorts of cakes, especially orange and honey cakes, followed by nougat and light earthy touches. With water: little change, which is lovely. Mouth (neat): powerful yet creamy, with ginger, oranges, honey, last year’s apples, and vanilla. Nothing but the classics, but I find it really good. With water: the spice becomes much more pronounced now, with white pepper, turmeric, then butterscotch mixed with brine—rather unusual, let’s admit. Finish: of good length, with zest, ginger, and allspice. Comments: in the end, the Texan stole the spotlight.
SGP:651 - 81 points. |
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Makers Mark ‘Cellar Aged Release 2024’ (59.65%, OB, USA)
Said to be around 12 to 13 years old, which is quite old for a large-volume American brand, though certainly not unheard of elsewhere. Colour: amber. Nose: veering slightly into pot still territory—more robust, earthier, and more complex as well. Notes of mint, soot, a touch of dirtiness and dunnage, along with mosses and old tree stumps. The rest is more classic, with vanilla, varnish, a bit of solvent, and a hint of cologne. With water: a bag of liquorice and caramel sweets. Mouth (neat): of course, it burns, and seems packed with acetone, but I’m sure water will sort it out. With water: absolutely. Earthy spices emerge, mingling with old apples and oranges. As usual, pepper, cinnamon, and nutmeg set the pace. Finish: long, but without major change. Spiced honey, with a slightly Christmassy feel. Comments: works perfectly for me, and it doesn’t come across as too cowboy at all—really lovely MM.
SGP:561 - 86 points. |
Given the changes in customs tariffs between countries, particularly between Europe and the USA, spontaneous boycotts could, of course, emerge, much like what is happening with Tesla at the moment. However, we hope that small independent European bottlers and distributors of American whiskies will not be affected. Let’s remain elegant and thoughtful! Here’s a fine and worthy example… |
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Kentucky Bourbon 6 yo 2018/2025 (60%, Fadandel, USA, cask #23, 229 bottles)
We’ve discreetly uncovered a few clues suggesting this might come from Green River Distillery in Owensboro (they call it ‘The Whiskey Without Regrets’, which we find rather amusing). Colour: dark gold. Nose: almost a Scottish bourbon. Even more so than in Makers Mark, this has a thicker, less sweet, and more multidimensional profile, reminiscent of Scotch malt. Beautiful citrus notes, apple juice, mosses and ferns, toffee, and even a good amount of malt indeed. With water: becomes a bit more classic, with vanilla, light varnish, and a faint touch of coconut milk, but nothing too serious. Mouth (neat): very powerful, all on oranges and ginger. A bit hot, to be honest, but that’s to be expected. Only one remedy—water. With water: excellent, well-balanced, with lovely coffee notes, followed by all sorts of citrus and a few aromatic herbs. More complex than your usual bourbon, I insist. Finish: long, lemony, very fresh, quite magnificent. Comments: a lovely little beast, well done!
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
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FEW ‘Bottled in Bond – Paul Hletko Selection’ (50%, OB, USA, for South Africa, Navigate World Whisky, Chicago straight bourbon whiskey, cask #18-2213, 2024)
We learn that 2024 marked the 125th anniversary of the Bottled in Bond Act of 1897, which we find interesting even if I’m not sure the figures do add up. Indeed. Colour: full gold. Nose: as is often the case with FEW, in our small experience, this is bright, precise, intelligent, assertive, yet very well balanced. Earthy vanilla, tea with honey, fresh black bread (pumpernickel), root vegetables… With water: earthy tones and bread—almost perfect—plus a touch of eucalyptus. Mouth (neat): absolutely excellent, compact yet complex, which is entirely possible. A return of spiced citrus, especially oranges, that famous pumpernickel, speculoos, and liquorice… With water: this stuff is just brilliant! Finish: liquorice caramel, lingering, with menthol in the aftertaste. This always works. Comments: excellently done. And selected, naturally.
SGP:661 - 89 points. |
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Willett 8 yo ‘Family Estate Bourbon’ (62.9%, OB, USA, for LMDW Singapore, cask #13059)
Let’s do this quickly—after all, Willett is always very good, we just need to avoid scorching our noses and palates… Colour: dark gold. Nose: loads of burnt wood and vanilla pods at first, plus cappuccino and caramel. Very powerful, yet quite endearing. With water: citrus comes out in force, especially bergamots and kumquats (which, incidentally, are the favourite citrus fruits of retired Dutch dentists—sorry, private joke). Then come waves of deep black soil and geraniums. Mouth (neat): this seems excellent. Oranges, ginger, and chocolate in perfect harmony, but also a lot of ethanol. As a result… With water: incredible—you can add litres of water, and it remains powerful. This time, the usual spices take centre stage, with pepper leading the charge. Finish: very long, oranges and pepper, with a touch of maple syrup in the background. Comments: it needs water, but too much would diminish the fruitiness. A cruel dilemma, a proper Cornelian choice.
SGP:661 - 88 points. |
What's great about American whiskies is that, since a certain person is supposed to be abstinent, there's no risk of you ending up tasting the same whisky as him—let alone at the same time, which would surely bring bad luck. |
More American whiskies coming soon—we’ve got plenty in stock! |
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March 5, 2025 |
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Twelve Springbank, vertically and in two parts, part two
Yesterday, we were stuck on that incredible 1994 from North Star, which had propelled us to planet Mars (take that, E.M.). Today, we're going to try leaving the galaxy (now you're really exaggerating, S.). |
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Springbank 29 yo 1993/2022 (46.4%, Animal Spirits, 1st Anniversary, hogshead, cask #95, 207 bottles)
We’re back in Asia, with much joy. Colour: straw. Nose: this starts badly—I mean, we’re already too high up. But of course, that was to be expected. Once again, this isn’t a complicated nose; it’s almost basic (chalk, sourdough, green banana, pine resin, humus, roots, tar, seaweed, camphor… actually, no, it’s fairly complex). In fact, it’s reminiscent of a great yet pretty ‘new-school’ white wine. Think Meursault power, in short. Mouth: impressive strength for just 46%, with beautiful peppers, earthy tones, bananas, and apples, all with a simple yet razor-sharp precision. Very refined, sculpted almost like flint. Finish: fairly long, mostly peppery. Comments: excellent, with a nose that slightly outshines the palate, which held back just a little. But we remain at an exceptionally high level—sheer class.
SGP:562 - 90 points. |
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Springbank 30 yo 1994/2024 (48.6%, Distilia with Robert Bauer, The Sins, Envy, cask #94, 112 bottles)
The seven deadly sins still rule the world, not just at Mar-a-Lago. Then again, have they even heard of Dante Alighieri over there? Colour: gold. Nose: here we have balance—almost perfect balance, in fact, to the point where you wonder if anything else even needs adding. Seaweed and honey, smoked figs, mentholated tobacco… you see, it’s simply a great whisky, perhaps with fewer of Springbank’s usual markers, rather one that could almost be a great older-style ‘M’. I swear. Or a mix of both malts. Mouth: forget all that—the palate is pure Campbeltown. Powerful, peppery, and salty, almost a bit brutal, yet with beautiful acidity, green apples, and green pepper… Very different from the nose indeed. Finish: the slightly mentholated salinity returns, along with mixed peppers and lime. Strong honey in the aftertaste, still mingling with quite a bit of pepper. Comments: this one doesn’t back down—it’s still a fighter. A very entertaining and charming contrast between the rather diplomatic nose and the rougher palate. Naturally, we love it, yes we do, believe me, we love it very bigly.
SGP:462 - 92 points. |
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Springbank 30 yo 1994/2024 (48.8%, WhiskyLand, Decadent Drinks, Chapter Seven, refill sherry hogshead, 247 bottles)
Well then, after the deadly sins, a chapter seven. Our friends in independent bottling are certainly keeping us on our toes—utterly unrepentant! They won’t be taking this to heaven (right, right). Colour: deep gold. Nose: almost identical to the previous one— again you might mistake it for an old-school Macallan from their golden era, with subtle smokiness, roasted nuts, all kinds of dried fruits, those little Asian sauces we never remember the names of but always love, and a good 25 kilos of dried dates, with just a drop of mint essence. Absolutely stunning. Mouth: the same pattern as before—the palate is far more peppery, intense, demanding, taut, yet, of course, utterly magnificent. Grapefruit peel and green apples. Finish: long, dominated by green peppers with just a hint of honey. Comments: we strongly suspect a sister cask of the previous one. What a nose!
SGP:462 - 91 points. |
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Springbank 30 yo 1994/2024 (43.1%, Royal Mile Whiskies exclusive, refill hogshead, cask #27, 214 bottles)
RMW had already stunned us with a Springbank 1993/2023 (WF 93), so let’s see how this more recent bottle compares. Colour: chardonnay. Nose: all these noses are superlative—absolute beauties. Here, we have meadow and mountain honeys, dried fruits, and blossoms in full springtime nectar flow. How fitting, isn’t it? Then comes beeswax, leading us into more secondary and tertiary realms (whatever those might be), while the faintest wisps of smoke complete the masterpiece. Mouth: here we go—this time, we’re fully in the realm of honeyed citrus, with a touch of pepper, though less than in the previous ones. The very mineral chardonnay-from-limestone-like backbone supports it all beautifully. You could almost serve this alongside a poularde demi-deuil or some quenelles de brochet sauce Nantua. Hungry yet? That was intentional. Finish: curiously long given the ABV, with citrus making a strong return. The pepper is still there, lurking in the background. Comments: a sublime bottle—don’t be afraid of the slightly lower strength.
SGP:562 - 92 points. |
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Springbank 1992/2024 (46.3%, Douglas Laing, Xtra Old Particular, Black Series, refill hogshead, cask #DL18281, 176 bottles)
Colour: light gold. Nose: the house style when there’s no sherry. Direct, slightly fermentary, with raw wool, modelling clay, damp chalk, and slate… You get the idea—it’s rather mineral, simple, almost youthful, yet to me, of an almost Caravaggesque beauty. Nothing is missing, and nothing is superfluous. Mouth: citrus and pepper, plus seawater and apple juice. That’s it—it’s little, and it’s a lot. A new kind of old Springbank—abstract, simple, magnificent. Isn’t complexity overrated in whisky? (Of course not—pure b*ll*cks.) Finish: not the longest, but always ultra-precise, with liquorice, mint, lemon, ashes, and pepper. Comments: it’s great fun tasting these vintages, which we first tried when they were ten years old, back when their ‘flaws’ hadn’t yet become their strengths. Who said time isn’t a major ingredient in whisky—aside from accountants?
SGP:462 - 92 points. |
Well, we said 12, but we're only at 11. So, let's quickly dig into the box of 'older' Springbanks we haven't tasted yet... |
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Springbank 1993/2015 (54.7%, OB, Private Bottling, Whiskyfreunde Essenheim, fresh sherry butt, cask #412, 144 bottles)
Germany, and the Germanic countries in general, have quite a few very active whisky clubs, some going back a long time. Essenheim, near Frankfurt, is a fine example. Colour: gold. Nose: I love it when there are hints of garlic in a malt, and that’s the case here. Then come broths, soups, vegetable potages—this feels like a very nourishing Springbank. “Five a day,” they say—well, we’re there, easily. With water: truffle, cabbage, leek, and spent matches, though all kept in check. Mouth (neat): lovely cask, rather deviant, but then, Springbank loves to deviate. Here, it’s all about truffle, dark chocolate, and metal polish, then leeks and black pepper. Not at all classic, and extremely dry—but we love it. Very loco Springer. With water: escargot soup with garlic, parsley, and butter. I swear. Finish: fairly long, same profile. Notes of Brussels sprouts. Comments: yes, it’s sulphured—there were quite a few sulphured Springbanks and Longrows from these years—but here, it didn’t really clash, it even blended in. More or less. A very fine bottle in any case.
SGP:362 - 86 points. |
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March 4, 2025 |
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Twelve Springbank, vertically and in two parts
Having a Springbank session from time to time is as essential to us as oxygen to a diver or the colour yellow to Van Gogh. Alright, fair enough, take that as you will—but in any case, it's time for us to revisit a very recent batch of the official 10-year-old, which, last time we tried it in 2021, was an absolute benchmark for us. Then, we’ll attempt to climb Mount Everest, so to speak... |
The north face of Everest in Tibet (Luca Galuzzi) |
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Springbank 10 yo (46%, OB, +/-2024)
Colour: white wine. Nose: I get the impression that SB 10 is becoming increasingly earthy, dirty, laden with soot, basalt, oyster shells, slightly rancid olive oil, mustard, slags, and various yeasts—everything we love, though it’s perhaps not quite to your new neighbour’s taste, just to be clear. SB 10 will never replace a good, easy Champagne blanc de blancs (not entirely sure about that last remark, S.). Mouth: austere, intensely saline, peppery, even dirtier on the palate, with striking bitterness and that unmistakable oily texture. Grilled aubergines come close, before lemon peel and a generous glass of fino sherry ride to the rescue. And it’s not the first time one gets the impression they’ve poured a bit of Longrow into the vatting tank. Finish: long, with that wonderfully discordant sensation of an oily yet razor-sharp malt. The aftertaste is saline, peppery, mezcal-like, and lemony. Comments: perhaps it’s that untamed, uncommercial edge that makes this so sought after. Go figure; we, of course, adore it, as ever.
SGP:362 - 91 points. |
Another 10-year-old, please, but an older one... |
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Springbank 10 yo 1990/2000 (43%, Blackadder, cask #102, 397 bottles)
Angus has already tasted this baby and liked it, though without finding it of intergalactic calibre. Colour: light white wine. Nose: the kinship is evident, though this one is a little fruitier and more herbal, as well as rather lactic (yoghurt and mashed swede). Apple, clay, a touch of beer (international lager). I quite like it, though it suffers a little when compared to the newish official 10. Mouth: again, the resemblance is there, but it’s less ‘dirty’, more focused on apples and lemons, grass, and a note straddling gin and soap. No, no, that’s not the same thing at all! Finish: fairly long, lovely, with seaweed and shells, plenty of ashes, and a smoky edge. Comments: the slight problem is that there are so many magical Springbanks (barring the few overly sulphured old sherry casks and the rather improbable red wines) that the moment one falls even slightly short, we start complaining. Tsk-tsk.
SGP:562 - 86 points. |
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Springbank 15 yo (46%, OB, sherry, 2024)
The issue for me remains the same: it’s nearly impossible to beat the 10-year-old, even more so in terms of quality/price ratio. In short, the 15 is sold at twice the price of the 10. This is the 2024 release in our glass—I imagine the 2025 version is already in the pipeline. Colour: gold. Nose: a restrained sherry greets us, with the distillate in full command of itself, brimming with Springbankness. Damp plaster, fresh concrete, low tide, paint pot, lemon, menthol, old ointments, and not the slightest trace of sulphur this time. We found a bit in an earlier version, but that was back in 2017. Mouth: less luminous than the 10 OB, with more leather and simply more sherry (old walnuts) as well as tobacco, yet the brininess is spot-on, before things shift more towards bitter oranges rather than lemons. Finish: long, oily, with a touch of curry and very peppery olive oil. Comments: excellent, as expected, but as the old ad used to say, I wouldn’t trade two bottles of the 15 for one of the 10. Well, there we are…
SGP:462 - 88 points. |
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Springbank 23 yo 2000/2024 (52.5%, The Antelope Macau, 5th Anniversary, refill hogshead, 151 bottles)
And here we are, with a very Van Gogh-esque label. Colour: white wine. Nose: already rounder, more in the realm of a painter’s workshop (how fitting), with linseed oil, oil paint tubes, turpentine, then yeasts, bread dough, a touch of Swiss cheese (proper Gruyère), and seaweed butter… With water: tarmac, mashed potatoes, hints of fondue, raw wool. Mouth (neat): still fiery with youthful energy, marked here by that distinctive Swiss cheese, plenty of cumin, even black garlic, with a rounder texture brought by age. It’s rather singular, but I like it a lot, all the more since lime soon steps in to bring some order. With water: water brings out quite a bit of chilli mingling with that same lime. A wild beast, hardly the kind of dram to sip while lounging in your Chesterfield by the fire, listening to Stan Getz. Finish: long. Olive oil, chilli, pecorino, tar, citron, and seawater. Comments: a real oddball, this wild Springbank that has made its way (back) from Macau.
SGP:372 - 89 points. |
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Springbank 26 yo 1998/2024 (56.2%, North Star Spirit, Obscurities & Curiosities, first fill sherry butt)
Colour: very dark amber. Nose: here we are, plunged into the old-school, with game sauces (grand veneur) and chocolates, plus that tarry, ashy, and cement-like backbone of the distillate humming in the background. Then comes blackberry jelly draped over dried meats, followed by a stunning mint-infused liquorice. A rather sporty old Armagnac-like vibe ties it all together. A superb nose. With water: a hint of well-kept stable, old tobacco pouch, coffee, hoisin sauce, before it fractures into layers—leather at the helm (saddle, that is). Mouth (neat): oh blimey! A landslide of smoked pepper, bitter chocolate, grey tobacco, then blood orange and clove. The boss here? Definitely the chocolate. With water: chocolate, pepper, salt, and marmalade, all atop plasticine, which, to us, is very Springbank. Finish: long, oily, thick, glorious, and triumphant (or so we say!). Comments: a great Springbank with a great sherry cask—this is a truly exceptional whisky, another piece of proof.
SGP:563 - 92 points. |
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Springbank 29 yo 1994/2024 (50.1%, North Star Spirit, Obscurities & Curiosities, refill hogshead)
I don’t imagine this series will be easy to find—these are discreet little batches that seem to pass under the radar. Colour: white wine. Nose: incredible, we’re back to pure Springbank, almost simple, almost basic, yet this time with an abundance of… vegetable soup. Carrots, celery, potatoes, leeks, cabbage, plus chervil and parsley. The fruits gradually take over, though we remain in apple and plum territory, with absolutely nothing extravagant—and that, in fact, is what makes this almost abstract beauty so special. With water: pure Springbank, looping perfectly back to the current 10-year-old, just with even more grace. Mouth (neat): oh wow! An avalanche of citrus, oysters, mixed peppers, essences, and oils—utterly stunning. Time to call the anti-maltoporn brigade. With water: perfection, nothing more to say. Finish: fairly long, more resinous, ending on a top-tier manzanilla en rama. Time to put on Puccini’s Messa di Gloria, bow down, and say our prayers. Comments: shh…
SGP:462 - 94 points. |
It seems that in certain countries—which we shall not name out of Christian charity—this small range is instead called "Obscenities & Cupidities", though we cannot say for sure. Sorry, couldn't resist. Anyway, the continuation of our verticale tomorrow morning... |
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March 3, 2025 |
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The Port Charlotte Case, Part 8
(and last, hurray!)
This little website is really turning into portcharlottefun.com. |
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Port Charlotte 8 yo 2008/2017 (57.6%, Maltbarn, Château Margaux cask, 169 bottles)
The mention of a Château Margaux cask suggests this PC came directly from Bruichladdich. To be honest, that’s a little worrying (the fact that’s it’s Margaux, not that it came straight from the Distillery), even if it’s from Maltbarn. Ch. Margaux is 75% cabernet sauvignon, the rest merlot with a touch of cabernet franc. Colour: mirabelle. Nose: the wine cask sits prominently atop the distillate, somewhere between blackcurrant bud and blood orange, with a touch of rubber and menthol once again. A good opportunity to remind ourselves that these château casks made from French oak aren’t as heavily charred (or toasted, or burnt) as those crafted for the whisky trade, which are also overwhelmingly American oak. With water: smoked brioche, pastis. Mouth (neat): a textbook Bruichladdich-style dual profile when wine casks are this involved. A hint of cherry gin. With water: not bad at all, round, now rather silky. The red fruits remain present. Finish: long, with still that interplay between peat and red fruits. Comments: really quite good, even more than that, but the 2001 Maltbarns were in a different league, in my humble opinion.
SGP:655 - 84 points. |
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Port Charlotte 14 yo 2004/2022 (59.7%, Rest & Be Thankful, LMDW Antipodes, sherry cask, cask #R08/258-13, 223 bottles)
Colour: very ripe apricot. Nose: back to those bourbon-like sherry profiles, with varnish, stewed fruits, Jaffa cakes, then raisins and Earl Grey. Then more and more liquorice and peat smoke. Then walnuts and a teriyaki note. A superb nose, in fact. With water: a spiced peach soup with honey and fresh coriander. Star anise, Christmas biscuits (indeed, we’re terribly late for that) … Mouth (neat): massive, with plenty of tobacco, pepper, honey, and orange marmalade. A little bittersweet touch. With water: this mix of vine peach jam with sultanas, liquorice, and burnt wood is simply perfect. Finish: long, with coffee appearing alongside chocolate filled with red fruit liqueur. Comments: absolutely excellent. Almost like some sort of red sherry (which, of course, doesn’t officially exist, though surely some young Andalusian winemakers must be crafting such a thing in secret).
SGP:666 - 88 points. |
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Port Charlotte 12 yo 2008/2021 (59.9%, OB, Private Cask, Åbrest habn, bourbon barrel, cask #3172, 206 bottles)
Hurrah, a release for Norway! Thank you, Steffen & Peter. Colour: straw. Nose: that lovely purity shines through, with vanilla, lemon liqueur, rather delicate peat, chalk, barley, almond milk, fresh croissants, and apples… With water: damp earth and beach sand emerge, along with raw wool (from Islay sheep, naturally). Mouth (neat): beautiful lemony tension, with ashes and green apple. Quite simple, but in this context, that feels like a strength. With water: excellent, far saltier, with touches of white Jamaican rum and lime. Call it an Ileach mojito if you like. Finish: long, precise, razor-sharp. Comments: it only grew more captivating, second by second.
SGP:656 - 90 points. |
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Port Charlotte 15 yo 2001/2018 (58.3%, Dramfool, Islay Whisky Festival 2018, hogshead, cask #0847, 195 bottles)
The 2019 edition was rather pleasant, so let’s see what the previous year had to offer. Colour: white wine. Nose: those rooty notes we love—gentian, fresh turmeric, celery, carrot, radish… Then soot, watercress, and fresh hay. Absolutely spot on and rather unusual (which is no contradiction at all, quite the opposite). With water: hints of shoe polish, plasticine, and modelling clay. Mouth (neat): very powerful, sharp, even more rooty and slightly bitter, yet also intensely lemony. Notes of cola. With water: peppery, very smoky, with a fino-like character mixed with pine sap. Still quite unusual. Finish: long, salty, with amaretti, ashes, lemon liqueur, and lingering celeriac. Comments: it almost feels as if another peated Islay whisky had previously occupied this hogshead. Very good, in any case.
SGP:466 - 87 points. |
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Port Charlotte 14 yo 2003/2017 (60%, Whisky Broker for Tjaerdalen, refill sherry, cask #857, 372 bottles)
This time we are in Sweden. Colour: white wine. Nose: there’s something truly admirable about a refill sherry cask that knows how to behave. Here, its influence on the distillate is just perfect, with nougat, cakes, and above all, honey-roasted peanuts with caramel. Hints of mint mustard—does that even exist? We’ll quickly see what water brings, otherwise, it’s a touch strong… With water: smoked almonds and lapsang souchong, a lovely five o’clock. Mouth (neat): absolutely stunning, ultra-salty and citrusy, with that razor-sharp edge—think Uma Thurman in Kill Bill. With water: yes, absolutely flawless. Perfect texture, perfect tension, yet with a seductively rich mouthfeel. Finish: almost a little liqueur-like. Grapefruit liqueur with pepper, green olives, seawater, an oyster, and smoked tea. The aftertaste turns more medicinal, camphory, and just as lovely. Comments: shame we’re eight years late to this one—and frankly, we feel a bit guilty about that.
SGP:566 - 90 points. |
Well, it looks like we've reached our goal of 40 Port Charlotte, but we still have a few left to taste. So here’s what I propose: we’ll add one more as a toast and then call it a day. Next time we head to the right lung of Islay, we’ll try to have some Lochindaal, Rhinns, and Octomore. ‘Bye. |
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Port Charlotte 10 yo 2001/2011 (61.5%, OB, Private Bottling for Marc Segers, rum barrel, cask #253, 236 bottles)
Colour: amber. Nose: it almost feels like the rum cask has added an extra layer of raw intensity to Port Charlotte, manifesting as flintstone and dried meat notes. Enhanced sorrel soup with wine, basalt, charred notes… Quite an unusual profile, though let’s not forget the very high ABV. So… With water: comes across like a rather sulphury sherry, really. Plenty of gunpowder and black truffle. Mouth (neat): yes, very oddly sulphury, almost burnt, bitter, with strong briny notes but also some very dark toffee. I suspect that’s the rum—perhaps an old Guyanese one? With water: black coffee and bitter chocolate. Finish: long, more on meaty, spicy, and salty notes… Loads of cumin in the aftertaste—are we sure this wasn’t genever rather than rum? Comments: what I didn’t mention is that I actually enjoy these ultra-unusual styles. Even if it’s hard to score, they do feel like a bit of a holiday.
SGP:576 - 86 points. |
A holiday that I need now… |
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March 2, 2025 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
A few more rums on this beautiful Sunday |
Let's choose them somewhat at random, but still in order. I know what I mean... |
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Ingenio La Cabana 7 yo (43%, Cane Island, El Salvador, American white oak, +/-2023)
By the makers of Cihuatan rum, of which we have already tasted some rather decent versions (WF 77-80). Colour: deep gold. Nose: a slight metallic touch (copper wires) accompanied by hints of fresh varnish and walnut oil, then sugarcane, orange syrup, and some increasingly prominent hay. It’s rather pretty and, most importantly, not overly liqueur-like on the nose. Mouth: there is some added sugar, quite evidently, yet the whole remains fairly balanced between orange liqueur, nougat, and cane syrup. All in all, a rather sweet rum. Finish: short, sugary. A cup of Nescafé with five sugar cubes. Comments: really very honest, it just needs some ice, or otherwise, keep your bottle in the fridge and drink your glass quickly, before it warms up.
SGP:740 - 75 points. |
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Dictador ‘Platinum’ (40%, OB, Colombia, +/-2024)
The Dictador ‘Insolent’ was more decent than expected a couple of weeks ago (WF 72 – while we were bracing for the worst). This ‘Platinum’ was distilled in stainless steel, which should, in theory, retain a dirtier side as there’s no ‘cleansing’ effect from copper, then aged in deep-charred sherry and port casks. Colour: amber. Nose: lots of espresso and caramel, then even more turrón and ground coffee once again. Small touches of cumin and roasted, caramelised peanuts. In short, the keyword here is ‘caramel’, though I find it to be a rather nice caramel. Mouth: sweet, but not excessively so. That said, the Nescafé and caramel return, making it rather one-dimensional, while the low strength causes it to lose altitude very quickly. Finish: short, slightly syrupy, and still carrying that sugar-laden Nescafé and caramel profile. Does Nestlé have a stake in Dictador? A much more bitter aftertaste, yet still very sweet, in the style of Montenegro. Comments: I think it needs a lot of ice. The Cihuatan was still superior.
SGP:840 - 70 points. |
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Centenario ‘30 Solera Edición Limitada’ (40%, OB, rum, Costa Rica, decanter, +/-2024)
A rum that everyone presents as a 30-year-old, though of course, it isn’t, with the youngest component seemingly around 8 years old. I tasted it in 2013, and Angus in 2018, and we both found it rather average (WF 70-72), but perhaps this recent bottling suits our taste better. Colour: dark reddish amber. Nose: entirely in the Salvadorian style, slightly metallic, with oils (walnut, sunflower), molasses, and coffee laced with caramel. Certainly not an unpleasant nose. Mouth: lots of caramel, lots of molasses, roasted nuts, and always that well-known instant coffee. Black tea and bitter chocolate. It is undeniably sweet, but it almost feels dry after the crazy Dictador. Finish: short, on molasses honey and a hint of black nougat in the aftertaste. Comments: once again, ice or the fridge seem inevitable. Or Coca-Cola.
SGP:740 – 70 points. |
We're stopping the sugar bombs; we'll have more next time, but in moderation. |
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Karukera ‘Black Edition Alligator’ (45%, OB, Guadeloupe, agricole, +/-2023)
Karukera has pulled an Ardbeg-like move with this finishing of a four-year-old rum in ‘very-deeply-charred’ casks, colloquially known as ‘alligator’. Like Longueteau, Karukera is produced at the Domaine du Marquisat de Sainte-Marie. Colour: amber. Nose: a great success! Charcoal, smoked sausage (Morteau), soot, salted liquorice, cloves, bitter oranges, crème brûlée, brown sugar… Highly charred casks don’t impart smoky notes, but here, they certainly kind of do. Mouth: lovely smoky bitterness, burnt cake, dry molasses, touches of lavender, honey-glazed ham, liquorice wood, rosemary… The mouthfeel is just perfect. Finish: shorter than expected but still beautifully smoky. A more honeyed and liquorice-laced aftertaste, with a splash of fresh orange juice. Comments: you almost get the impression that this improbable treatment actually enhances the agricole character. A fantastic malternative bottle.
SGP:651 - 88 points. |
We had previously tasted an earlier batch of this Karukera, which had left us far less convinced. Have they improved the recipe? |
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Foursquare 22 yo 1999/2022 (61%, The Colours of Rum, Barbados, Edition No.14, 210 bottles)
The Colours of Rum have released a fine selection of well-aged Foursquare. Colour: rich gold. Nose: ultra-typical, even at 61% ABV, opening on nougat, maple syrup, and honey popcorn, with touches of coconut and a hint of diesel fuel. A fresh profile leading to notes of fresh sugarcane juice and violets. Truly very pretty and elegant. With water: lovely notes of fresh rubber, ‘new Nike’, brake fluid, orange zest, genever, etc. Mouth (neat): the high strength brings out a marked bitterness, artichoke liqueur, and very dark chocolate—it needs water. With water: loads of oranges of all kinds, including Seville oranges, with a pinch of salt and pepper, as well as ginger. Finish: long, but unchanged. That wasn’t needed anyway. Peppery aftertaste. Comments: extremely pretty, just as expected.
SGP:651 - 89 points. |
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T.C.R.L. 8 yo 2014/2023 (49.6%, Transcontinental Rum Line for The Navigator NWW, Fiji, cask #F14WP24, 240 bottles)
A bottling for South Africa! Time to put the brilliant Abdullah Ibrahim on the stereo… Matured for 2 years in bourbon in Fiji, the rest in ex-rum casks in Europe. Colour: gold. Nose: this is petrol! Petrol with a handful of green and black olives, a bit of lemon, a touch of seawater, and then, to drive the point home, strawberries and a few tubes of glue. The funniest part is that it remains elegant and refined—I’ve no idea what kind of sorcery is at work here. Mouth: a sublime composition, striking a masterful balance on a beautifully bitter base. Salt, liquorice, olives, acetone, lemons, rubber, seashells, benzine… Finish: superb salty liquorice. Comments: not exactly a surprise, and yet… it is, in a way. After all, we are only 12,098 km from Jamaica as the crow flies.
SGP:572 - 91 points. |
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Caroni 1994/2019-2024 (58%, Velier, Rum Paradise #8, ‘Guyana Heavy Trinidad’, Trinidad)
This Caroni aged for 25 years in Trinidad, then in Guyana, before moving to Cognac for resting in demijohns from 2019 onwards. Colour: amber. Nose: that typical lapsang souchong and coal tar profile, but also menthol, hibiscus, violet, and jasmine, followed by a box of 50 Cuban double coronas. Absolutely lovely. With water: it goes “full fractal peacock tail.” I know what I mean. Small broths, dim sum, chervil, coriander, parsley, miso, dates and Corinth raisins, earth, mushrooms, moss, paint, varnish… and a whole array of other things, including small citrus fruits. Mouth (neat): intensely resinous, mentholated, liquorice-laden, and bitter (in the best possible way). Loads of varnish and fir honey. With water: very woody, broadly speaking, leaning towards precious black teas, powerful coffee beans, and bitter chocolate. You have to love this style—we certainly do. Finish: same story, with hydrocarbons lurking behind the dominant woody essences. Comments: you can really feel the time spent in British Guyana—there’s even a little old Port Mourant character in there. Just joking, of course.
SGP:473 – 92 points. |
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Clarendon 23 yo 2001/2024 ‘MLC’ (51.5%, Plantation, for LMDW Foundations, Jamaica, 300 bottles)
Aged for 18 years in Jamaica, then 5 years in cognac casks at Ferrand, who also own part of Clarendon. The ester level is fairly high at 500g/HLPA, so we don’t think the cognac influence could have impacted this rum too much. The MLC mark is the highest at Clarendon. Colour: deep gold. Nose: an amusing smoky honey cake note, complemented by eucalyptus, camphor, and menthol. Seawater and engine oil round off a rather soft and civilised profile. Could that be the cognac influence, in the end? With water: the rum still takes the lead, ha! Though a hint of lightly mentholated triple sec appears, along with a touch of chamomile. Mouth (neat): rather surprising, with a seemingly obvious cognac influence—honey, sultanas, and peach syrup coating seawater, light solvents, and olives. With water: now at its best, the elements meld beautifully, it’s quite spectacular. Liquorice, peach, lemon, peppermint, Earl Grey tea. Finish: now with green pepper and honey, evolving significantly over time. Comments: a surprising yet truly excellent Cognac-Jamaican puzzle.
SGP:562 - 87 points. |
Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far |
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March 1, 2025 |
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February 2025 |
Serge's favourite recent bottling this month:
Port Charlotte 21 yo 2003/2024 (53.4%, Acla Selection, Ski Ladies, barrel, cask #664) - WF 91
Serge's favourite older bottling this month:
Macduff 37 yo 1973/2010 (46%, Mo Or collection, bourbon hogshead, release #22, 281 bottles) - WF 93
Serge's favourite bang for your buck this month:
None
Serge's favourite malternative this month:
Cuban Rum 67 yo 1955/2023 (46.3%, Lucky Choice & HanShes, drum, cask #1/1955, 78 bottles) - WF 93
Serge's thumbs up this month:
Mannochmore 11 yo 2012/2024 (60.2%, Signatory Vintage, Whisky Club Nantais, 1st fill oloroso sherry butt, cask #120, 654 bottles) - WF 88
Serge's Lemon Prize this month:
Patridom 12 yo ‘Seleccion Exclusiva’ (40%, OB, Dominican Republic, +/-2023) - WF 30 |
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February 28, 2025 |
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The Port Charlotte Case, Part 7
We go on… |
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Port Charlotte 13 yo 2007/2020 (60.5%, The Whisky Baron, fresh Vosne-Romanée barrique, cask #003, 265 bottles)
I have immense respect for The Whisky Baron, but at the risk of repeating myself, Vosne-Romanée is in Burgundy, and in Burgundy, they don’t use ‘barriques’, but ‘pièces’. It seems this was a full maturation in the Burgundy cask, very much in the Bruichladdich style (see Dramfool/Jim’s cask of Vosne-Romanée-ed PC we tried a few days ago). Colour: red copper. That checks out. Nose: the Pinot Noir takes control immediately and probably won’t let go. Tons of cherries, with touches of almonds, kirsch, and glue. With water: black cherries infused in whisky. Mouth (neat): this is really good, it just doesn’t feel very ‘whisky’. Immensely vinous, but beautifully so. Cherry liqueur and, quite simply, young red Burgundy. Recognising it as Vosne-Romanée (let alone a grand cru…) would be a stretch though. With water: incredible how this wildly improbable mix works, though you do need to love cherries… Finish: same. Maraschino, rubber, kirsch, glue, oranges. Comments: it’s not exactly a Romanée-Conti of Islay, but I find it excellent—and almost feel guilty for that. Then again, I did study in Burgundy. I did indeed.
SGP:755 - 89 points. |
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Port Charlotte 14 yo 2004/2019 (53.4%, Dramfool, Feis Ile 2019, first fill sherry hogshead, 299 bottles)
Colour: dark amber. Nose: engine oil, fig leaves, Corinth raisins, blackberry jelly, potting soil, pipe tobacco, truffles, an old petrol lighter (GI’s Zippo) … This is quite a dominant sherry on the nose. With water: petrol and overripe oranges. Mouth (neat): a very surprising profile, with honey, Fanta, black truffle, rubber, raspberry jam, and fir honey. It’s almost thick. With water: even more rubber and orange-flavoured ginger tonic. All in all, there’s almost a touch of Aperol Spritz. Finish: fairly long, on an almost identical profile. Aftertaste of ginger, honey, salt, and rubber. Comments: amusing, this Glen Spritz. In any case, once again, the sherry kind of ‘eats’ the peat.
SGP:565 - 86 points. |
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Port Charlotte 10 yo 2001/2011 (57.8%, The Stillman’s, sherry hogshead, 317 bottles)
Here we are again with our dear Swiss neighbours. Delighted to taste a 10-year-old from 2001, to stay closer to the original distillate… unless the sherry is overwhelming, let’s see… Colour: amber. Nose: yes, it’s very sherry-driven, but still beautifully done, with notes of smoked walnuts, fresh concrete, freshly trimmed shrubs, and a hint of miso. With water: a few spent matches and a bouquet of peonies. Mouth (neat): powerful, on bitter oranges, intense honey, and almost black figs. Very concentrated but very good. With water: yes, forget the distillate, the cask was more hyperactive than Elon M. Finish: long and rich, on fig jam and manuka honey. Leather and tobacco in the aftertaste. Comments: once again, the wine has tamed the peat, it’s pretty crazy.
SGP:655 - 87 points. |
Would it be a characteristic of Port Charlotte to be less ‘resistant’ to wines than its heavily peated counterparts? |
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Port Charlotte 20 yo 2003/2023 (56.5%, Islay Sponge ‘IV’, refill hogshead, 241 bottles)
Mr Sponge/Land’s PCs are particularly sharp, it must be said. Colour: light gold. Nose: right, we’re heading into acetic territory, with PX seco, bicycle patch glue, seawater, and above all, all sorts of shellfish. So, perhaps thanks to a well-behaved hogshead, the whole is far more maritime than most others, whether ex-bourbon, ex-wine, or ex-sherry. With water: south coast. Whatever that means. Mouth (neat): absolutely perfect, with sumptuous chillies alongside equally sumptuous citrus, the whole further enhanced by seawater and coal tar. With water: L*******n of the same age, no less. Nothing more to say. Finish: long, compact, magnificent. Smoked and candied lemons, then an aftertaste of peppered and salted honey. Comments: incredible density, almost abstract. But was all of this intentional? An ineffable whisky that restores faith in humanity—it was about time I tasted it.
SGP:655 - 91 points. |
What people forget is that Bruichladdich was peated until the late 1950s, back when it was still owned by the DCL (pre-pre-Diageo). For example, we tasted a 1958 from Cadenhead that had an SGP of **5. In a way, one could almost say that Port Charlotte is the original Bruichladdich. Well, let’s forget this unnecessary digression and move on to the next and last one for today—but there will be more soon... |
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Port Charlotte 2004/2019 (51.6%, Malts of Scotland, bourbon barrel, cask #MoS19014, 267 bottles)
Malts of Scotland has already released dozens of 2001s and 2002s, all very good, but this is the first time we’re tasting a more recent vintage. Well, relatively speaking. Colour: gold. Nose: the wood is more present this time, with pencil shavings, carbon paper, and hints of wasabi and ginger, but we’re not in full-on Ikea mode. Lovely notes of slightly smoky marzipan, then clams and cockles, sea air, salsify, and a lightly tarry peat, almost discreet. With water: a briny side, like, we’re at a little fisherman’s harbour. Mouth (neat): quite saline on the palate, like a mix of mezcal and manzanilla, which, with two or three olives, would make a perfect ‘new-school’ martini, let’s be honest. Try it and tell me what you think. With water: even more maritime, with tinned sardines in lemon and salted anchovies making an appearance. Finish: long, lemony, peppery, and briny. Then ashes, though this is certainly not a peat bomb. Comments: frankly, I love all these contradictions. Another top PC.
SGP:566 - 89 points. |
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February 26, 2025 |
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The Port Charlotte Case, Part 6
We simply carry on... |
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Port Charlotte 10 yo 2011/2021 (62.3%, Sansibar, bourbon, 235 bottles)
Here’s a lovely traditional label that exudes the spirit of the 1990s. Colour: chardonnay. Nose: the pleasure of ultimate simplicity, with lemon, green apple, mercurochrome, clay, a hint of smoked fish, then baker’s yeast and heaps of ashes. A little touch of yellow melon. And there you have it. With water: clay, almond milk and fresh bread, plus hints of fresh mint. Mouth (neat): oily, immensely powerful, of course, a sort of mix of 50% iodine tincture and 50% pure lemon juice. With water: even more lemony. Smoked grapefruit liqueur. Finish: long, with those lovely bitters that marry so well with lemon. Campari and limoncello, salute! Comments: the cask was rather active, it seems. Magnificent young PC.
SGP:656 - 88 points. |
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Port Charlotte 16 yo 2001/2017 (59.7%, Archives, barrel, cask #278, 212 bottles)
Here we have it again, the first vintage of PC. Colour: white wine. Nose: same general profile as the previous one, but fresher, more maritime, and rather more complex, with those lovely little herbs and tisanes in addition… Was 2001 the best vintage of Port Charlotte? Or was it simply a less active and more subtle cask? With water: that famous old Harris Tweed jacket that has seen many rains and storms, and once again, fresh bread. Mouth (neat): the creamy side returns, with plenty of smoked and mentholated citrus. Magnificent lemon and a very, very light touch of coconut. Not so inactive, that cask, after all. With water: we simply must mention limoncello once again. Finish: long, creamy, and utterly beautiful… and lemony. Comments: the peat has mellowed a little, and it’s truly lovely.
SGP:655 - 89 points. |
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Port Charlotte 17 yo 2001/2018 (53.3%, Maltbarn, bourbon, 155 bottles)
Colour: straw. Nose: this one is a little more metallic, more marked by pine and cedar wood, along with oysters and a few touches of natural rubber. Aside from that, ripe apples and pink grapefruit, as well as plenty of limestone and clay. With water: a hint of vanilla emerges, along with raw wool and brioche dough. Mouth (neat): sauvignon blanc, citron, marshmallow, honey, chamomile, liquorice. Nothing to discard. With water: magnificent touches of salted liquorice, then a drop of violet liqueur, and finally a little bag of gummi bears. Finish: fairly long, very citrusy, with peat that tiptoes away. Comments: it seems this one has already digested part of its peat. Very, very, very charmingly different, in fact.
SGP:654 - 88 points. |
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Port Charlotte 12 yo 2003/2016 (60.4%, OB for Les Passionnés du Malt, fresh fill bourbon, cask #816, 241 bottles)
An official/private bottling for a very, very high-level French club. Colour: white wine. Nose: once again, great purity, rather mineral and medicinal (camphor and damp chalk) for the moment. With water: crystalline, salty, peaty, peppery, perfect in its style. Mouth (neat): classic, creamy, clearly peatier than the 2001 and 2002. Plenty of lemon, plasticine, small oysters and heaps of ashes. With water: it becomes softer and juicier. Little tart apples emerge, along with honey and white clover. Finish: long, with the arrival of a touch of cough syrup. Honey and fig spirit in the aftertaste. You almost wish you had a cough, really. Comments: frankly, this is excellent, bravo Bruichladdich and Les Passionnés (and apologies for the nine-year delay).
SGP:656 - 89 points. |
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Port Charlotte 16 yo 2005/2022 (54.6%, Rest & Be Thankful, ex-wine hogshead, cask #1577, 272 bottles)
All is well in the best of all possible worlds (yeah right), but could we at least know what kind of wine it was, while we’re at it? And perhaps whether it was European oak? Colour: gold. Nose: there’s clearly an additional coating that can only come from the wine, but which wine exactly? Lovely notes of panettone, raisin rolls, maple syrup, sultanas, and candied orange zest… All very nice, but in return, the peat becomes rather discreet. With water: fresh barley and a touch of hay smoke, still with gentle citrus. And panettone! Mouth (neat): all kinds of citrus liqueurs, white chocolate (yep), toasted sesame and pistachios, then a sensation of lemon nougat. There’s almost a hint of cognac. With water: an avalanche of pistachios and orange marshmallows. Finish: fairly long, on similar notes. Comments: did the wine eat the peat? That said, it’s very good, no doubt about it. So, which wine was it?
SGP:654 - 87 points. |
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February 25, 2025 |
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The Port Charlotte Case, Part 5
We carry on, all these Port Charlotte are still very good... |
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Port Charlotte 15 yo 2004/2019 (48.3%, Orcines, The Whisky Lodge, bourbon barrel, cask #864, 188 bottles)
This comes from the distinguished organisers of the Lyon Whisky Festival. It’s coming up soon, in March. Colour: straw. Nose: a very pure Port Charlotte, all about limestone, lemon, green apple, ashes, and bread dough. Elementary, in the best sense of the word. Mouth (neat): very vertical yet soft, with clementines emerging beyond a fine peat that leans more towards CI. Sichuan pepper, olives, a touch of grey pepper, and, of course, plenty of ashes, always with a certain softness… Finish: rather long, very precise, highly coherent, almost refreshing. Some lovely gentle bitterness in the aftertaste, almost reminiscent of amaro. Comments: really very beautiful, but beware—exceptionally high drinkability.
SGP:555 – 88 points. |
Let’s go back to the opposite side... |
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Port Charlotte 8 yo 2009/2018 (64.2%, Artful Dodger Whisky Collective, Sauternes cask, cask #1063, 398 bottles)
Colour: deep gold. Nose: an unexpected bourbon-like side, with varnish, then flambéed bananas and almost medicinal alcohol in which coconut might have been macerated. A hint of brine seems to emerge in the background. Surprising! With water: it remains curiously soft and almost evokes a Cuban rum. Seriously. Mouth (neat): kirsch and strawberry eau-de-vie straight from the still. Strawberry eau-de-vie is quite something—don’t drink too much without water, even a couple of drops will scrub your oesophagus. With water: well, there we have it, the peated distillate comes charging in, but now accompanied by apricots and mirabelles coated in honey. Finish: long, really all about PC plus yellow fruit liqueurs and honey. Comments: a very surprising combination, actually quite Bruichladdich-like. Don’t even think about drinking this without water.
SGP: 755 – 85 points. |
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Port Charlotte 10 yo 2005/2015 (60.7%, Strange Ways, for HNWS Taiwan, Madeira cask, cask #2005001572, 303 bottles)
Strange ways? We’re very eager… Colour: gold. Nose: this is quite surprising, with that soft, almost buttery, almost pastry-like side. Slightly sweet varnishes, if you see what I mean, a mirabelle tart, a bag of bergamots from Nancy (the city, not Mrs Reagan’s old stash), then finally a rather vegetal peat that lifts off gently, in a lovely way. With water: very amusing medicinal notes, particularly inhalation oils packed with eucalyptus. A beautiful nose. Mouth (neat): this must have been a very sweet Madeira, probably Malvasia. Honey, oranges, pepper, and a peat that isn’t overwhelmingly aggressive—yet. With water: everything balances out to perfection; I think we might need to light a few candles. Phew. Very oily texture once reduced. Finish: very long, with a peaty, peppery softness and an almost Christmassy side. Do our dear Taiwanese friends know Beerawecka or Hützelbrot? Comments: quite the concoction—Strange Ways indeed, but also Great Ways.
SGP:756 – 89 points. |
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Port Charlotte 17 yo 2002/2020 (57.1%, WhiskySponge, 1st fill bourbon, 220 bottles)
One of the first releases from Angus’s WhiskySponge—now that’s a collector’s piece! Colour: white wine. Nose: oh, gentian, celeriac, wild carrots, soot, leeks, a full ashtray, paraffin, lemon… Honestly, I love it, Sponge or no Sponge. These very first vintages are among the best in terms of complexity, truly top-tier. With water: a little mellowed but still beautiful, if slightly less expressive. Paraffin. Mouth (neat): same rooty profile, extreme gentian (we’re fans), a touch of candied sugar, ashes from various sources, clams, a bit of butter, a bit of black bread… Oysters are the only thing missing now. With water: seawater, celeriac, lemons, green apples, cigar ashes. Finish: long, fatty yet precise. Roots, ashes, honey, and salt. Comments: by Zeus, what a devilish bottle! And to think it took me five years to taste it.
SGP:666 – 91 points. |
These are delightful bottles because you realise that you don’t have to spend £2,000 £1,500 £1,000 on an old Ardbeg to achieve a fairly similar level. |
Since we're on the topic of sponges... |
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Port Charlotte 18 yo 2003/2021 (57.1%, WhiskySponge, 1st fill bourbon barrel, 197 bottles)
This bottling strength of around 100° proof has the particularity of being drinkable without water, if one really insists—though we at WF wouldn’t recommend it. Colour: gold. Nose: more compact, more monolithic, also more predictable than the 2002, with ashes, lemons, leather, pink and black pepper, limestone, and clay… That said, there are also bergamots, and as the honorary president of the BASF (Bergamot Appreciation Society of France), I must say I love it too. With water: not much development, it actually turns a bit rougher. Perhaps I wasn’t wrong about avoiding water. Mouth (neat): powerful, lemony, loads of ashes, still a sooty side but also… bergamots and a touch of hay jelly. With water: same combo, more or less, just a little more peppery. Finish: long and, surprisingly, now very close to the 2002, even with all those roots and that pepper. Comments: the 2002 was already more tertiary, but this 2003 is right on its heels. Truly splendid bottles.
SGP:667 – 90 points. |
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February 24, 2025 |
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A bit of fun around the world,
hoping for peace |
Because there’s so much fun in the world right now, isn’t there? It reminds us of the Coluche-Pratchett theorem, sadly more and more accurate these days “To calculate the IQ of a crowd, take the IQ of the dumbest person and divide it by the number of its members.” Thankfully, this doesn’t apply to whisky lovers, whisky retailers, sommeliers, whisky traders and brokers, nor, of course, the distillers who, in the end, diligently and professionally craft the means for us to forget. Come on, let’s keep our fingers crossed and stick together, starting with France, as usual... |
The official version, apparently disputed by a number
of New York bartenders, claims that Donald T. has
always been teetotal. It’s surprising, in this context,
that Elon M.’s AI ‘Grok’ would produce this kind of
image without batting an eyelid, is it not. (Grok). |
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Moon Harbour ‘Dock 1’ (45.8%, OB, France, +/-2024)
First matured in ex-Sauternes casks, followed by 6 months in casks from Château La Louvière, a well-regarded, slightly budget Pessac-Léognan producer of both reds and whites. It’s not specified, but one imagines these were red wine barriques. Practically everyone uses ex-wine casks nowadays, it’s mad (I know, I keep saying that). Colour: apricot. Nose: pleasant, marked by the wine, with an abundance of fruits and fruity brioches, fruitcakes, fruit jams and fruit sweets, then soft acacia honey and some candied fruitcake. Mouth: the wood from the casks shows more here, with green pepper, a touch of chilli, and quite a bit of kirsch. Some bell pepper too, likely from the cabernet. Finish: of medium length, more herbaceous, with notes of amaro. Comments: wine-sky, but good wine-sky. No surprise really, the distillery is in Bordeaux.
SGP:651 - 83 points. |
Off we go, to Mexico... Wondering if the distillery is to the east, on the Gulf of Mexico. |
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Prohibited Ley Seca 3 yo (40%, OB, Mexico, +/-2024)
Presented a bit like all those new rum brands that reference past centuries but didn’t even exist ten years ago. This is 100% malted barley whisky. I’m not sure if, given the name, this youngster has any link to ‘El Ron Prohibido’, a very, very poor rum, also from Mexico. In any case, it appears to be produced by the tequila makers Corralejo, based in Guanajuato, far from the Gulf of Mexico. ‘Ley Seca’ means ‘dry law’, so, prohibition. Colour: gold. Nose: like Abasolo, a Mexican corn whisky we really liked, this Ley Seca exudes aromas of fresh lime and fennel, both bright and lovely, along with some Wulong tea and delicate earthy touches that work rather well. If you push it a bit, you might even find faint hints of agave. Mouth: a bit sweet and liqueur-like but, in this case, the 40% ABV is a blessing. Nougat and citron, but also a fair bit of plain sugar. Lacking in texture though, which is a shame. Finish: short and sweet. Screams for lots of crushed ice. Coffee liqueur. Comments: it’s a pity, the nose was lovely, but the palate tires quickly. Definitely needs ice to cut through the sweetness.
SGP:740 - 65 points. |
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Bivrost ‘Yggdrasil 2024’ (46%, OB, Norway, sherry and STR, 9,009 bottles, 2024)
Some ‘Arctic Single Malt Whisky’, made by the Aurora Spirit Distillery in Lyngseidet, operating since 2016. Said to be the northernmost whisky distillery in the world, located on the 69th parallel, well above the Arctic Circle. From what I gather, the barley used is local (!), yielding four times less than the usual barley employed in Scotland, according to Dave Broom in Whisky Mag. Myken, which we’ve tried several times and really liked, isn’t all that far away, at least from here. Colour: light gold. Nose: country bread, lemon, weissbeer, poppy seeds and juniper, green apple and smoked fish, with the impact from the wine casks being fairly restrained—thankfully—though a few notes of raisins do emerge. Mouth: an amusing start with ginger beer and a slightly dusty note (spelt?), before heading into a mix of pumpernickel, juniper and speculoos, all moistened with lapsang souchong. Finish: medium length, rather earthy and quite peppery. Comments: a quirky whisky, probably quite young. I find it good and encouraging. Makes you wonder if the warehouse is heated.
SGP:452 - 78 points. |
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Ki.One ‘Batch 2’ (40%, OB, South Korea, bourbon, +/-2024)
The previous Ki.One we tasted (WF 83) was bottled at 46%, but this one has lost quite a few degrees. It comes from first fill bourbon and virgin American oak, which we always find a bit tricky at lower strengths, so let’s see. Colour: light gold. Nose: oh no, this is nicely honeyed, with mashed banana, eucalyptus, orange liqueur, mint and, most importantly, not too much vanilla. A light touch of ginger liqueur too, echoing that Norwegian we just tasted. Mouth: very unusual, absolutely packed with tinned peaches and apricot liqueur, to the point where there’s almost nothing else. Then again, we do like tinned peaches and apricot liqueur. A very fun whisky with that aged liqueur vibe from the wood. Finish: the vanilla finally bursts through! Loads of it, along with nougat and apricot jam. Comments: spectacular liqu… I mean whisky. I really like this, and what’s more, the wine casks were left well alone this time.
SGP:730 - 83 points. |
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Braunstein 2010/2023 ‘The Dentist’s Choice’ (50.1%, OB, Denmark, oloroso sherry, cask #170829.317)
I do wonder why so many dentists from the Nordic countries love whisky... Perhaps they give their patients half a litre before getting to work? Thanks, Jesper! Colour: dark red amber. Nose: full-on Rivesaltes, Banyuls, PX, old mosto… It’s all rather over the top, but in the end, it comes together beautifully, almost like a Jackson Pollock. Black earth, old walnuts, dried figs, gingerbread and pipe tobacco in the background. Danish tobacco, of course (Davidoff’s Danish mixture—if I recall correctly). With water: more potting soil and even a bit of garden peat (no smoke), followed by a return of the oloroso, which feels quite ‘cream’ here. Mouth (neat): imagine dipping a slice of pumpernickel into dark honey. Then you sprinkle it with pepper and nutmeg, followed by raisins and little bits of dried apricot. With water: add some grated orange zest, a splash of cumin liqueur, and a few slivers of cured ham. Finish: long, spicier, with more and more candied ginger and clove. Or what we call ‘gingerettes’, a dreadful name but it’s the ginger version of orangettes. A peppery and bitter aftertaste. Comments: I believe the finish is its weaker spot, but everything else is simply superb.
SGP:661 - 87 points. |
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Smögen 10 yo (57.1%, Decadent Drams, Sweden, 166 bottles, 2024)
Bravo! First matured for 8 years in ex-Madeira hogsheads, then 2 years in a refill hogshead, presumably to coax out more subtle tertiary aromas. Just a guess. It’s the Cognac method—starting with fresh or active casks, then moving to refill—the opposite of what whisky folks usually do, seeking extra flavouring at the end rather than the start of maturation. Yes, I’m repeating myself again, but here we’re feeling fairly confident... Colour: gold. Nose: it’s always the precision that impresses us most with Smögen. You could sum it up in two lines (who said that would be better, eh?) Lemon, lime, sea water, heavily ashy peat, then sauna oils (though we’re not in Finland) and a stunning camphor note over smoked biltong. With water: just one whole, a unified entity, pure Dasein. Mouth (neat): unbelievable sensation of smoky, spicy citrus liqueurs. That’s it. With water: holy moly, the same but with seawater (drawn offshore—just kidding). Finish: long, this time with touches of old walnuts and mustard layered over everything else. Comments: I spent a good fifteen minutes hunting for the Madeira, only to find it right at the end. Honestly, that’s borderline provocative.
SGP:556 - 90 points. |
One last one, with someone who could have been very useful right now. |
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Bimber ‘Winston the Statesman’ (57.9%, OB, England, Shoulders of Giants, Spanish oloroso, cask #473, 302 bottles, 2024)
With Sir Winston, it couldn’t possibly be ex-bourbon, could it? Maybe a champagne cask? Didn’t he say, "In victory I deserve it; in defeat, I need it," echoing Napoleon, according to the scholars? Colour: deep gold. Nose: it kicks off boldly with chocolate, prunes, toffee, then a rather rustic armagnac, like a classic Ténarèze. A powdery side too, with hints of musk (apologies) and even a touch of Chanel N°5. With water: it gets even better, bursting with all sorts of raisins and dried figs. Mouth (neat): very powerful, very spicy, loaded with bay leaves and more toffee, followed by dried currants and toasted pecans. The whole thing leans more and more towards deep roasting. With water: once again, water works wonders here. A raisin curry. Finish: long, following the same flavour profile. Comments: a Churchill that loves water—who would’ve thought? Must’ve been a very ‘wet’ sherry cask.
SGP:651 - 88 points. |
Whisky, peace, love and understanding! |
The Port Charlotte Case, Part 4
We're still very far from the end... |
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Port Charlotte 21 yo 2003/2024 (53.4%, The Finest Malts, City Landmarks, bourbon barrel, cask #664)
Colour: straw. Nose: utterly perfect, the quintessential 2003 profile, identical to the sublime Acla Selection bottling we sampled just two days ago. Upon verification, the cask number is indeed the same, confirming it as the very same immaculate Port Charlotte. Magnificent purity... simply flawless. Mouth: same comments apply—it’s a Port Charlotte of remarkable precision. And, of course, it is perfect. Finish: likewise. Comments: one might be tempted to compare labels, but let’s refrain this time. A grand and impeccable PC, every bit as phenomenal as expected, that’s all.
SGP:566 - 91 points. |
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Port Charlotte 14 yo 2001/2016 (46%, The Cooper’s Choice, bourbon cask, cask #1016, 350 bottles)
The proprietors of The Cooper’s Choice, The Vintage Malt Whisky Co, have already given us many superb peated Islay whiskies, including some remarkable PE and CI… and even some L*******n. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: this time, we begin with carbolineum and a medley of assorted shellfish, before moving on to almond milk, shoe polish, and a touch of mezcal. Impeccable. Mouth: intensely saline and heavily peated on the palate, almost like taking a cigar from the wrong end. But fear not—the lemons and apples arrive swiftly to set things right. The lower strength, compared to a CS, never feels like an issue. Finish: long, still packed with ash. Think Lapsang Souchong forgotten in the teapot, followed by limoncello and a salty tang in the aftertaste. Comments: very impressive. They truly nailed their peated whisky on the first attempt at Bruichladdich.
SGP:457 - 88 points. |
Let’s remember that even the very first Bruichladdichs were (rather lightly) peated in 2001, before they decided to go for unpeated. |
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Port Charlotte 20 yo 2001/2021 (54.9%, Maltbarn, bourbon cask, 135 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: metallic notes this time, more on aluminium utensils before the arrival of metal polish, naturally, along with lemon and grapefruit. Plenty of chalk and damp clay. With water: more floral now, with jasmine and chalk. Mouth (neat): beautifully precise, ashy, peppery, salty, and lemony. Hints of bacon and smoked fish, then surprisingly, some candied sugar notes. With water: edging towards the style of Islay’s east coast, with crab, oysters, and simply fresh-pressed apple juice. Finish: long, fresh, and elegant, highlighting the familiar elements of the finest mid-aged peated malts. Comments: very refined, this PC feels a touch rounder—possibly due to a rather active cask after all.
SGP:656 - 89 points. |
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Port Charlotte 19 yo 2004/2024 (59.1%, Rest & Be Thankful, LMDW Foundation, Rare Collection, oloroso sherry hogshead, cask #R082580014)
We’re expecting a little monster here… Colour: dark amber. Nose: following in the footsteps of the young 2003 Blackadder, meaning a peat-and-sherry combo that works as seamlessly as Jagger & Richards in the Exile era. I know, and Mick Taylor. And the controversies involving Jagger. Oh forget, only pre-boomer stuff. Smoked Mars bar, toffees, maple syrup, hot chocolate, used engine oil, cigars, and a touch of miso. No clashes, it’s unstoppable. With water: more fresh leather, a hint of stable, aged meats, and wildly raw chocolate. Mouth (neat): a whisper of leather and tobacco, then orange liqueurs and chocolates filled with mint cream. Mint cream chocolates, absolutely lethal. Then more and more black pepper. With water: the tobacco and pepper return, alongside a touch of chicken broth. Finish: long, meaty, chocolatey, almost stubborn. Quite bittersweet overall. Comments: a monster squared (peat monster meets sherry monster).
SGP:576 - 90 points. |
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Port Charlotte 16 yo 2006/2023 ‘Rock’ndaal’ (50%, OB, Feis Ile 2023, Refill Wine and Sherry butt, 2500 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: not vinous at all—on the contrary, fresh fir wood, smoked oils (sesame), a touch of Chardonnay, and hints of mead. All beautifully balanced. With water: fresh bread dough and orange cake, hurray! Mouth (neat): glory to refill casks! There are indeed touches of strawberry yogurt and blood orange, but the commanding forces remain lemony, peaty, peppery, and saline throughout. With water: very good, well-balanced, almost easy. The next best thing after a refill bourbon. Finish: not eternal, but fresh and typical. Raspberry chocolate ganache in the aftertaste. Comments: we were a little wary upon seeing the word ‘wine,’ but then we saw ‘refill.’ A lovely composition that has preserved the distillate.
SGP:656 - 87 points. |
We estimate that there are still about 25 PCs to follow up on. Is that alright with you? |
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February 23, 2025 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
A few more rums...
We really need to come up with more original headlines. Let’s see what we can find in the stash (talking about rums, eh) ...
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Kirk and Sweeney ‘Gran Reserva’ (40%, OB, Dominican Republic, +/-2024) 
The label ‘Gran Reserva’ on a rum bottle makes about as much sense as a ‘I save the Planet’ sticker on a Tesla (now replaced with 'I bought this before Elon went crazy'). You remember Tesla, don’t you? Colour: gold. Nose: amusing, slightly on metal polish at first, then come toasted sesame oil and salsify. It’s unusual, far less exuberant than expected, and rather pleasant. A very faint touch of brandy de Jerez. Mouth: drat, there’s far more sugar than hoped for, coming across like liquid caramel flavoured with violet essence and coffee, all resting on a feather-light structure. A shame, as the nose showed decent promise. Finish: short. The dregs of office coffee from an electric percolator at 9pm. Comments: in any case, the bottle is ‘too much’, always a bit suspicious.
SGP:730 - 68 points. |
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Cartavio ‘XO’ (40%, OB, Peru, +/-2023)
We’ve already tasted XO versions claiming an age of ‘18 years’, whereas this one is NAS. Colour: amber. Nose: hay, burnt wood, molasses and pipe tobacco, with added roasted hazelnuts and instant coffee powder. To be honest, it’s not bad, with a bit of a Starbucks touch, though fairly discreet. Mouth: clearly superior to the K&S, more toasted, less sweet, leaning towards molasses and sugarcane, though some bitter orange liqueur and instant coffee start to take over. Finish: short and slightly liqueur-like. Not its finest moment. The aftertaste turns cloyingly sweet, and I imagine people usually drink this over ice. Comments: just a reminder that cold/ice reduces the impression of sweetness. A rather average rum overall.
SGP:740 - 70 points. |
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Patridom 12 yo ‘Seleccion Exclusiva’ (40%, OB, Dominican Republic, +/-2023) 
I believe, though I might be mistaken, that Patridom is also sold under the name ‘Ron Esclavo’, a name so daft it surely must be the result of the team’s overly generous self-consumption. That said, for some brands self-consumption seems to be the future. Colour: gold. Nose: not much, almost nada, niente, nichts. Cold coffee. Mouth: three tonnes of sugar with a few drops of maple syrup and Frappuccino. Finish: very short but sticky and awkward. Comments: quite a pitiful little thing, though perhaps on the beach, with plenty of ice, a tiny paper umbrella, and your Blaupunkt playing Kid Creole and the Coconuts...
SGP:810 - 30 points. |
Maybe it’s time to stop the jokes... |
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Saint James 18 yo (43%, OB, Martinique, agricole, +/-2024)
It’s a real joy to taste an 18-year-old rum without having to wonder if it’s actually 18 years old. In any case, we’re fans of Saint James and will always remember the very old ones, 1885, 1932, 1939… Colour: amber. Nose: incredibly earthy, in the best possible way. It feels like stepping into a tropical greenhouse, with esters wafting up as model glue and brake fluid. Gorgeous liquorice deep down, and an outstanding nose overall. Mouth: heavily yet elegantly oaked, though leaning towards peach skin and mentholated tobacco, then bacon and cumin or caraway liqueur (kummel). Ultra-distinctive and, above all, very distinguished. Finish: fairly long, more on dark chocolate, with plenty of strong black tea and bitter chocolate. A tarrier aftertaste. Comments: beware, the 43% make it dangerously drinkable. A big fan of this rather… er, earthy bottle.
SGP:462 - 89 points. |
How about we go to Cambodia? … |
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Samai 3 yo 2018/2022 (53.2%, OB, for La Maison du Whisky Singapore, Cambodia, French oak, cask #SAM18FO36)
Colour: gold. Nose: honestly, this brings to mind two rums from the same (very, very large) region, Issan and Chalong Bay from Thailand and, to a lesser extent, the Fijians. Yes, we do know where Fiji is. In other words, it’s very pretty, subtle, highly exotic (tropical eucalyptus and similar trees) and beautifully saline and tarry. Earthy notes and the scent of brand-new electronics from Temu. We love it—the gadgets never work, but the packages smell wonderfully of crazy plastics when they arrive. With water: seawater, seaweed, tarred ropes and freshly laid asphalt. Mouth (neat): oh yes, honey and lemon juice mixed with olive oil and, above all, loads of salted liquorice. Perfect. With water: even better. Like some kind of manzanilla with salted liquorice. Finish: long, fairly rich, almost thick, but superbly saline. Cough lozenges lingering in the aftertaste. Comments: I wonder if we could start talking about a regional style here. Well, let’s not bring up the dreadful SangSom from lovely Thailand.
SGP:563 - 87 points. |
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Foursquare 17 yo 2006 (58.83%, North Coast Distillers, Pinball series, Barbados, 2nd fill bourbon barrel, cask #43, 243 bottles)
This is the classic self-blend of column and pot still. Independent bottlers seem to love Foursquare, and who could blame them? The label can’t help but remind us of The Who’s Pinball Wizard. I know, boomer stuff. Colour: deep gold. Nose: it’s packed with glues and varnish, and we love that. Is that a problem, doctor? Honestly, it feels like we’re on holidays in Kentucky (well, not so much these days, as those references are slowly being cancelled since you-know-what). With water: fresh sawdust, gum arabic, balsa wood, bananas, and seawater. Mouth (neat): bang! Solid, thick, and it feels richer than usual, as if the pot still proportion was higher this time. Varnish, overripe banana, liquorice, and lime. With water: the citrus notes show up in full force. Finish: fairly long, getting a bit fizzy at this stage, though we won’t go so far as to mention Schweppes Lemon (too late, S.) Comments: always that elegant lightness from the column still side. A magnificent bottle in any case.
SGP:652 - 89 points. |
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Chairman’s Reserve 14 yo 2009/2025 (58.3%, OB, Wu Dram Clan, St Lucia, ex-bourbon, cask #0139112009)
We’ll say it again—we have boundless admiration for this Chairman, who, much like Cadenhead’s own back in the day, is willing to part with his personal reserves, displaying an unparalleled generosity (even the folks in D.C. must be envious). Colour: amber. Nose: joking aside, this is impressive. St Lucia Distillers has been one of our greatest rum revelations of the past decade. Sublime precious woods (rosewood, snakewood, yew) and a liquorice note of absolute subtlety. Long story short, this is a truly great rum on the nose. With water: black earth, old leathers, cigars, bay leaves, fig tree… Mouth (neat): never has such a massive oak presence been so beautiful; in that sense, it’s not far from the Saint James 18. Huge tannins, an avalanche of black teas, ultimate tobaccos… And yet, it’s stunning. If only it would kindly return our tongue, please… (just kidding). With water: and what’s more, it swims beautifully, though the overall profile remains unchanged, apart from this black pepper settling onto your palate. Finish: as expected, bitter chocolate and espresso take control. The aftertaste is very peppery. Comments: I find this St Lucian quite mad, in a rather extreme way. A truly superb discovery.
SGP:572 - 91 points. |
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Caroni 26 yo 1998 (58.3%, Whisky Concerto, refill American oak)
We’re now left wondering if, back in 1998, Caroni hasn’t produced more rum than the entire Arabian Peninsula did oil. But no one’s complaining, quite the opposite… Colour: deep gold. Nose: well, this is gentler than the St Lucian, softer, rounder, more on pastries, though those typical metallic notes slowly creep in. Little orange blossom cakes with mint, a touch of butterscotch, then thyme honey. With water: pistachio syrup and soft glues, a hint of spearmint, a bit of chervil, orange blossom… Mouth (neat): nothing like the nose. Wood, liquorice, mint, lime. I repeat, wood, liquorice, mint, lime. Quite a bit of tannin at this stage. With water: water works wonders, turning it fresh like a young verdejo, though the tannins still linger in the background. Finish: long, far more petroly and saline. In short, more ‘Caroni’. Citrus in the aftertaste. Comments: a lovely journey in your glass, with plenty of twists and turns. Caroni always tends to be rather classy.
SGP:562 - 88 points. |
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